and other things!

http://www.fernblatt.com/longhurst/index.html

 

funny that they say that "quality counts" - didn't the NYPD do a 3 year study using 2 patrol cars, one used with the cheapest oil available, one with most expensive synth. Found at the end of the cars life (yup they only last 3 years) both engines had identical wear. Conclusion - freq oil change better then few oil changes using good oil.

BTW none turbo cars where used before anyone has a go !! ;-)

 

I would agree that frequent is more important than less frequent with good quality but I think if you do the same interval a better oil would be best??? Maybe??? Or maybe not......

 

i use 5w40 fully synthetic, i change it every 3000 miles only 'cos i get it cheap !(£7.40 for 4 litres !), but i have to agree that frequent oil changes are the eter way to go, especially if you make short journey's.

 

deffo frequency over quality - but ya know - if you put chip fat in there and change it everyday it's just not gonna be v.good is it....

 

I'm putting Magnatec in tommorrow. And before someone says that its a semi synth, its not. Its fully synth..

 

quality is more important. Crap oil could get well cooked, and lose some of its shear value, after a single good hard blast, leaving the oil in the sump as pure **** for the next be it 100 miles, or 3000 miles. If the oil is crap, just because you change it often, doesnt mean it will be ok. Crap oil, is crap oil. I had my big ends go, with Castrol GTX ( very crap oil ) The oil was in less than 500 miles, and it happened after a track day. I honestly believe that if there was god oil in the car, that it would not have happened. The engine did have over 120,000 miles on it, and may have been due a big end incident anyway, but I aint puttin crap oil in again. Mobil 1 Motorport all the way
It just aint worth the risk. A survey on ropey low revving V8 american police cars, with perhaps 50bhp/ltr. Not quite the same as a high revving turbocharged motor, with over 100bhp/ltr. Absolutely no comparison can be made. Use good oil, regardless of how often you change

 

What makes u think magnatec is fully synth then?
Si

 

Best oil I have used from the point of maintaining pressure at all temps and conditions is Motul - and for other reasons I think it is by far and away the best.

If it is good enough for Tommi....

300V - 15/50 - you can get it from Demon Tweeks

Trout

 

I here that one of the best oils to use is the motul 300V - 15/50 but dont use anything thinner than this. (Fully synthetic is to thin 50 /0)

 

Power Engineering use Mobil 1 Motorsport, and they know what they are doing.

 

I looked at buying Motul 300V from demon tweeks, but it worked out cheaper from ScoobyMania, who sell it in 5 litre quantities and can supply the subaru filter and sump plug gasket.


King Ra,

Re: "Power Engineering use Mobil 1 Motorsport, and they know what they are doing.". That's a rather strong statement, can I read in implied "in my (King Ra's) opinion" into that remark?

I would see your remark and raise you a "Prodrive use Motul oils in the Subaru World Rally Cars, and they seem to know what they are doing with subaru cars, in my opinion.".


Moray
bbs.22b.com

 

Um, it says so on the label...

 

Ive also heard good reports about Motul, from various engine builders. I tried to purchase direct form them once, and said they couldnt post the oil, I had to collect????? I was even offering to buy a 25ltr drum ffs.
In the meantime, I'll stick with Mobil, they do have a very good reputation with motorsport ( dont they?? )

 

OK so what's the recommended frequency then does anyone know?

I currently change oil at 6000mile intervals with Mobil 1 MSP, but that's roughly 60:40 long journeys....it's just so f8cking expensive to do really really regularly like 3K miles !

 

£40 every 3000 miles...And how much money do you spend on Optimax etc during that 3000miles...no comparison. Changing the filter isnt necesssary so often, and I'd say 5000 miles for 'good' oil is safe. £40 or so isnt that expensive for an oil change that only happens every 5000.

 

Just because an oil says it is fully synthetic does not mean it is fully synthetic. The standards which govern these things allow a small percentage of the oil to be mineral oil, even when labelled fully synthetic. I think it is around 10%.

From what I have read Motul is 100% synthetic - no marketing bull!

It's like cured meats - they are allowed to inject up to 10% water into meat that is described as 100% meat - well actually its 90% Meat and 10% added water. (Crap analogy I know - but you get the point!)

Finally - Motul maintains far superior oil pressure on track than Mobil 1 Motorsport - probably why the WRC team use it then!


Trout

PS Stevie - about £450!!!



[Edited by Trout - 7/19/2002 7:28:27 PM]

 

How much would you guys buy fully synthetic for ? 5w/40 ?

Maybe able to get hold of a few cans from work.

 

Trout...you pay £450 for a gallon of oil?????now that does border on ridiculous.

 

Petrol Head,

I think the general conclusion is that 15/50 is a better viscosity. Not 5/40


Stevie

"And how much money do you spend on Optimax etc during that 3000miles"

About £450!

Trout (swims off laughing)

[Edited by Trout - 7/21/2002 9:56:42 AM]

 

There's been a lot about oil on these pages recently an the general consensus is minimum 5w/40 no thinner. Subaru use fully synthtic and i've had a word with out technical dept and they 5w/40 is ok.....and i only pay £9 for 4 litres !

 

I'm afraid it's a LOT worse than that David!


Can't find the article here (at home) but a mineral oil which has been substantially modified can be called synthetic.

Mike.

 

So, my car (MY00 PPP) goes for it's 30k service on Friday. Is the Motul stuff that Scoobymania etc sell the stuff I want to get?

 

Hi Simon

..... yes


Adam

PS. All IMHO of course

 

lol Cheers m8y

 

I use Castrol RS 10/60, every 3k

 

Just a thought.........if Motul creates more oil pressure, it follows that there is more backpressure for the oil pump to push against, that means more flow escapes through the relief valve and less flow to the bearings to cool and lubricate them...........

Oh and the pump will also absorb more power to drive it as well as the increased drag on the rotating crank assembly.

 

I think its getting too deep... If you start thinking like that, people will start using 0/30 or something daft...What is a happy medium??? You could fit your remote oil cooler, and setup an oil flow monitor in one of the pipes.. ( thats a new one ), then try different oils, to see which will flow the best, at various pressures. You could also install presssure/temp sensors at varios points in the block, to monitor. especially at the feed to the centre main/2+3 big ends ( the furthest oil feed from the pump )
I would have thought that almost regardless of which GOOD qualtiy oil used, the oil pressure should be very similar, simply because the oil pressure relief spring is controlling it, and dumping the rest back to the sump. Whether a thick/thin oil, this shouldnt really vary that much, the spring is after all the same spring.

 

LOL Steve If I fit all that monitoring equip. I'll need another 20 bhp to pull it along

I was just making the point that high oil pressure doesn't mean high flow, or even that the oil is any 'better' for the engine. It just means less is escaping through the bearings. This may not necessarily be better for cooling/lubrication purposes.

ps Redline do a nice EP250 rated oil, plenty pressure with that