Quote "I have a Dawes AFR and can confirm that they are very accurate. I had two at one point, both connected (as I thought one was faulty, and Jamie send me a replacement, no problems. It turned out to be a bad earth) they tracked each other perfectly. When I checked the reading against Delta Dash they were perfect!!! I guess there is the question "how accurate is the Lambda sensor ?" but who cares that's the one the ECU uses "

2 sensors ( 3 including deltadash ) reading from the same source...of course they will read the same !!! , because they are all reading rom the same innacurate lambda sensor!! The ecu only uses the reading from the sensor at lambda = 1, 14.7:1 AFR, which is the ONLY point at which a narrow band sensor is accurate.
They should give repeatable results on a car, and are a useful guide to mixture as a weak/rich indicator, but accurate...NO



[Edited by ustolemyname??stevieturbo - 9/5/2002 8:56:01 PM]

 

Not trying to get technical here, was just pointing out that the units were calibrated very well, and fitted with what delta dash was reporting off the ECU. That's all, not wanting to start yet another debate!!

Cheers Phill C

PS OEM ecu with a TEK 2.5

[Edited by babber - 9/5/2002 9:38:57 PM]

 

Link, Dawes or Autometer?

Or any others...

Got any good or bad points to speak of?

J

 

dawes on my car, easy to fit and is very accurate

 

And exactly how do you know its accurate? Have you calibrated it against an AFR meter that is accurate under a variety of operating conditions?

 

...and how accurate is the sensor?

Easy to read is probably the best you can do. So a simple display is probably better.

 

You know which type I have

Very very acurate

Ustole Stevie, no HID yet

 

Sorry to but in but do you know how much a dawes is?

 

a dawes AFR is about £55 and can be bought from:

http://www.performanceexhausts.net

Dan

 

I used to run an Autometer AFR in my old car, and the bank of 20 LED's or what ever it is did get on my nerves at night, especially as it was in an A-Pillar pod.

Although it was good to know what the car was doing I'll probably go for the Lambdalink in the Scoob though.

 

Lambdalink and autometer

The lambda link is driven off an additional lead tolerant bosch sensor i fitted in the downpipe and the autometer is run off the std lambda sensor in the manifold.

The manifold sensor takes about 1.5 mins to come on-line & start reading properly, the extra 1 is on-line in approx 10 - 15 secs.
Manifold 1 overheats very qwickly on full chat, the downpipe 1 overheats on idle. So use both for different situations

Pete

 

I've got a DIY one as documented by John Banks and Scott.T

Seems to do the job fine and accurate enough for me

 

I have a Dawes AFR and can confirm that they are very accurate. I had two at one point, both connected (as I thought one was faulty, and Jamie send me a replacement, no problems. It turned out to be a bad earth) they tracked each other perfectly. When I checked the reading against Delta Dash they were perfect!!! I guess there is the question "how accurate is the Lambda sensor ?" but who cares that's the one the ECU uses

Cheers Phill C

 

Babber,

Depends on what ECU u r running and what the ecu does with the information it receives With running a link my mota is manually mapped using the info i get from the displays. Where as a JECS mota reacts to the info it receives from the lambda sensor without u having any say-so So if u r reunning a mappable ECU the accuracy of the sensor is an important consideration m8 IMHO.

 

I have the Lumenition AFR (from Demon tweeks) and have it wired through a switch so that I can switch it off when it becomes distracting. It's a small box that fixes to the dash top with velcro so it doesn't need a pod.

 

Stevieturbo..
Isn't the meters/dawes measuring off the narrowband rear O2 sensor (not highly accurate), where as Delta Dash reads off the ECU value of the front wideband sensor?
So therefore not all 3 coming from the one source (although I'd much prefer an analogue or even LED reader to hook up to the front sensor rather than pick up a .01volt difference on the rear sensor to mean "too rich"!).
R's
Tony

 

Only the new shape impreza uses a wideband sensor. ALL the older cars use a single narrow band sensor, which would be providing the voltage output for the ecu, afr, or whatever else may be attached to it.