UB - If it helps, I noticed recently that the blue plastic shroud on the bulbs can be removed, leaving just some bare wires out the back. Makes doing the bulbs on the Jap cars much easier, not sure about the UK cars.

If you want me to do it, just post them back, and I'll have it done in a jiffy (if you'll pardon the pun.... )

As for the brightness, the problem is the crap electrics on a Subaru - there is no easy solution, ideally you would have more than just 3 bulbs.




Paul Houbart
Gecko Motorsport

[Edited by BoxerFlat4 - 12/3/2002 10:46:57 PM]

 

- well the main instrument dash anyway. Looks well sexy , but a couple of questions:

There is a dark spot around the 100mph mark on the speedo and the 4,000rpm mark on the rev counter. Is this to be expected?

The other question is that the needles being red are pretty much invisible What's the recommended cure for that? paint 'em white?

Going to attack the heater control back lights tomorrow.(MY95). Does anyone have any advice on this? I'm told by Paul at Gecko it can be a bit awkward. Any tips?

cheers.

UB

 

I did my MY95 instrument panel on my WRX... not easy... all i did in the end was to solder to bulbs directly onto the instrument panel.... you will know what i mean when you get to it..!


Dan

 

I have not finished mine yet, but I took the whole dash binnacle apart and got rid of the blubs completely. Then I glued blue LEDs from maplin accross the back of the inside of the binnacle, and put masking tape over the back of the dials in any bright "hot-spots" to diffuse the light some more.

I then carefully glued LEDs around the needle light-guides and the odometer to illuminate them in my chosen alternate colour. Total cost? £15.
Total time: 3 hours. (not counting taking the dash out of the car, which you would have to do anyway).

It looks very very cool. Too cool for the car, in fact

 

re heating panel
i did the same as paul described on my95 rex and gently removed the blue plastic shroud on lamps.some came off easily but some didnt,if you do it yourself have a soldering iron handy
well pleased with results

 

heater controls are straight forward except you need to solder each bulb where you have removed the old orange ones.. unlike the fitting on the dahboard which just turns and fits nicely. make sure you get a good connection and and you need to shave off some of the plastic on the 3 *****. These stop the **** turning 360 degrees but also they bash the bulbs that hang down (1 broke before i shaved off about 1cm of plastic)