HELP i got £1500 to spend
#1
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 4,909
Likes: 0
From: 2005 sso, 1/4 finals,3rd in 60ft; 2004 sso,semi finals,2nd in 60ft time; 2003 standard car 2nd 60ft
need some help wot do i get for scooby
i've already got,
full de-cat
itg panel filter
forge dump
dawes
sti seats
boast gauge
oz super ts
+ 4 pots + springs that i will get in a week or so
wot next???? want to get hp up, i've got 240 at the minute NEED more
car my98 uk wagon
THANKS
SIMON
[Edited by scooby-si - 12/27/2002 12:11:46 AM]
i've already got,
full de-cat
itg panel filter
forge dump
dawes
sti seats
boast gauge
oz super ts
+ 4 pots + springs that i will get in a week or so
wot next???? want to get hp up, i've got 240 at the minute NEED more
car my98 uk wagon
THANKS
SIMON
[Edited by scooby-si - 12/27/2002 12:11:46 AM]
#6
You need a chip! If your car is after My99 then go the ECUTEK route. If it is before MY99 you need to think about the ScoobyECU route (www.scooyecu.co.uk).
Better fuelling, more horsepower.
Probably also worth investing in a knocklink and an AFR meter.
Your £1500 should also get you uprated fuel pump, injectors, fuel rails and possibly water injection. This should see you with at least 280bhp. If not more! Talk to David_Wallis or Pavlo.
Steve
Better fuelling, more horsepower.
Probably also worth investing in a knocklink and an AFR meter.
Your £1500 should also get you uprated fuel pump, injectors, fuel rails and possibly water injection. This should see you with at least 280bhp. If not more! Talk to David_Wallis or Pavlo.
Steve
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#9
TD05 conversion, Walbro fuel pump, LP fuel pressure regulator and ERL 1s water injection from Lateral performance. Knocklink, HKS fuel cut defender and wideband lambda kit. This will be the cheapest way to get 320 BHP and it could be done but there are many pitfalls along the way.
Alternatively, include a second hand Link ECU instead of the wideband and FCD. Polishes off your £1500 quite nicely but you'd have to fit it all yourself or by a friend for that money. Then if you want more next time you have £1500 then FMIC and 550 injectors, and probably a clutch
Alternatively, include a second hand Link ECU instead of the wideband and FCD. Polishes off your £1500 quite nicely but you'd have to fit it all yourself or by a friend for that money. Then if you want more next time you have £1500 then FMIC and 550 injectors, and probably a clutch
#12
If he was keeping his MY98 injectors he would need to raise the fuel pressure if he wanted to go anywhere interesting power wise. I am on the standard regulator and using 550s to near their (sensible) capacity so it would be the next step for me.
The wideband lambda helps you set up the FPR to get correct WOT fuelling. It is a bit of a kludge but without an ECU what else can you do?
TD05.... well it is half the cost of an IHI hybrid and can be rebuilt rather more cheaply Looking forward to seeing how T-uk's goes
[Edited by john banks - 12/27/2002 1:20:30 PM]
The wideband lambda helps you set up the FPR to get correct WOT fuelling. It is a bit of a kludge but without an ECU what else can you do?
TD05.... well it is half the cost of an IHI hybrid and can be rebuilt rather more cheaply Looking forward to seeing how T-uk's goes
[Edited by john banks - 12/27/2002 1:20:30 PM]
#14
I am on a day off
I don't think I really heal the sick, more reassure the paranoid and help a few symptoms whilst poisoning them with the side effects
Surgeons only heal the sick by chopping them in pieces and taking away bits that are infected or cancerous and throwing them away. Healing by destruction
What specialty are you in again remind me?
I don't think I really heal the sick, more reassure the paranoid and help a few symptoms whilst poisoning them with the side effects
Surgeons only heal the sick by chopping them in pieces and taking away bits that are infected or cancerous and throwing them away. Healing by destruction
What specialty are you in again remind me?
#16
Whilst you're there John I might aswell pick your brain a little more.At present my JDM STi7 has full exhaust(inc up pipe) and Ecutek remap from Pat(very nice!).I've decided that I'm defiantely going to get 2s WI(get Pat to map that aswell) and an uprated fuel pump.Already have KL fitted and will fit EGT gauge for extra reassurance.Feel like blitzing the cc a little more so am considering
1)fmic.Is there any chance you can quantify the BHP gain from a decent set up? Remember I'll already have WI. Also if chosen correctly and mapped well can you counter any additional lag.I really hate lag in day to day town driving.Can I really benefit from the fmic with standard turbo?
2)Injectors.Do you decide to change these purely on the basis of injector duty cycle? Mine were peaking at 92%.Further trimming of fuel at the next tweak might bring these down I suppose?
3)Equal length headers.Read some confusing things about theses.Some say gains,some say some ups some downs.Do you ahve an opinion?
Well you did say you had the day off.....
Cheers,Deep.
1)fmic.Is there any chance you can quantify the BHP gain from a decent set up? Remember I'll already have WI. Also if chosen correctly and mapped well can you counter any additional lag.I really hate lag in day to day town driving.Can I really benefit from the fmic with standard turbo?
2)Injectors.Do you decide to change these purely on the basis of injector duty cycle? Mine were peaking at 92%.Further trimming of fuel at the next tweak might bring these down I suppose?
3)Equal length headers.Read some confusing things about theses.Some say gains,some say some ups some downs.Do you ahve an opinion?
Well you did say you had the day off.....
Cheers,Deep.
#17
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 4,909
Likes: 0
From: 2005 sso, 1/4 finals,3rd in 60ft; 2004 sso,semi finals,2nd in 60ft time; 2003 standard car 2nd 60ft
thanks chaps alot to think about there
it will be the end of jan b4 i start mods need to do brakes first
i want to get as much hp as possible with out going BANG!!!!
thanks
simon
it will be the end of jan b4 i start mods need to do brakes first
i want to get as much hp as possible with out going BANG!!!!
thanks
simon
#18
Just my opinions....
1)fmic. Approximately 20 BHP would be my very rough guess but this could be rolling road issues. There are gains with a FMIC as well as water injection - the FMIC is better for cooling the charge, the WI helps in-cylinder detonation suppression by vapourising. I do not run WI so my understanding runs out there, but I don't gather it is very much more complicated than that. The VF30 which I gather is what the JDM STis have is quite capable, but to be honest I do think you would have more lag with a FMIC. I did not notice it driving. However, my car whilst being in the middle of being mapped with a TMIC had less lag on AP22 traces during gearchanges than my FMIC setup which I spent absolutely ages mapping to get it as good as I believe I can (about 25% extra spool up time between gears with FMIC vs TMIC). FMIC can help with consistent ignition timing, which is perhaps more of an issue for earlier ECUs which do not run as dynamically on the edge so you need less of a safety margin. FMIC will be better on track. It is kinder to your engine to give it a cooler charge.
2)Injectors. If for any reason I ever put an STi 7 engine in my MY00 then I would attempt to run it at 23+ PSI flat to the red line, otherwise I would see little point in upgrading from my chocolate engine which I run at 21 PSI peak 20 held dropping to 19 at the top. Not that I am suggesting you do If you are this bonkers you will need injectors. I would also try and get it down to 11.5:1 or maybe 12:1 with water as well, but would be collecting data on everything along the way. I do tend to push things a bit more on my own car than some others (I am also not paranoid about the engine letting go it is not due me any favours), and it depends on how bonkers you want your car for the spend. Don't think I would want to go very high with the stock turbo though - get it made into a hybrid and it *should* take whatever your engine can. However, I managed to kill a hybrid somehow, possibly through overspeed. I always thought the engine would go well before the turbo, but I think the engines are stronger than we give them credit for IF YOU KEEP THEM DET FREE. My injectors were at about 82% running 11.1:1 at 6700 RPM at 1.3 bar at standard fuel pressure to give you an idea. In this spec I estimate the flywheel was 350 BHP approx. Now I run a bit more midrange, same at the top, but a bit leaner. Haven't looked recently but it will still be in the 80-85% range. I was going to go higher on the top end boost if my inlet pipe ever arrives
3)Equal length headers. My car lost out with a big turbo and equal length headers. Others gain. Headers that seem to work well on one car with one turbo do not on another. If you don't like lag, then steer clear? Or let someone else try them on VERY similar spec of car to yours first.
[Edited by john banks - 12/27/2002 5:40:53 PM]
1)fmic. Approximately 20 BHP would be my very rough guess but this could be rolling road issues. There are gains with a FMIC as well as water injection - the FMIC is better for cooling the charge, the WI helps in-cylinder detonation suppression by vapourising. I do not run WI so my understanding runs out there, but I don't gather it is very much more complicated than that. The VF30 which I gather is what the JDM STis have is quite capable, but to be honest I do think you would have more lag with a FMIC. I did not notice it driving. However, my car whilst being in the middle of being mapped with a TMIC had less lag on AP22 traces during gearchanges than my FMIC setup which I spent absolutely ages mapping to get it as good as I believe I can (about 25% extra spool up time between gears with FMIC vs TMIC). FMIC can help with consistent ignition timing, which is perhaps more of an issue for earlier ECUs which do not run as dynamically on the edge so you need less of a safety margin. FMIC will be better on track. It is kinder to your engine to give it a cooler charge.
2)Injectors. If for any reason I ever put an STi 7 engine in my MY00 then I would attempt to run it at 23+ PSI flat to the red line, otherwise I would see little point in upgrading from my chocolate engine which I run at 21 PSI peak 20 held dropping to 19 at the top. Not that I am suggesting you do If you are this bonkers you will need injectors. I would also try and get it down to 11.5:1 or maybe 12:1 with water as well, but would be collecting data on everything along the way. I do tend to push things a bit more on my own car than some others (I am also not paranoid about the engine letting go it is not due me any favours), and it depends on how bonkers you want your car for the spend. Don't think I would want to go very high with the stock turbo though - get it made into a hybrid and it *should* take whatever your engine can. However, I managed to kill a hybrid somehow, possibly through overspeed. I always thought the engine would go well before the turbo, but I think the engines are stronger than we give them credit for IF YOU KEEP THEM DET FREE. My injectors were at about 82% running 11.1:1 at 6700 RPM at 1.3 bar at standard fuel pressure to give you an idea. In this spec I estimate the flywheel was 350 BHP approx. Now I run a bit more midrange, same at the top, but a bit leaner. Haven't looked recently but it will still be in the 80-85% range. I was going to go higher on the top end boost if my inlet pipe ever arrives
3)Equal length headers. My car lost out with a big turbo and equal length headers. Others gain. Headers that seem to work well on one car with one turbo do not on another. If you don't like lag, then steer clear? Or let someone else try them on VERY similar spec of car to yours first.
[Edited by john banks - 12/27/2002 5:40:53 PM]
#19
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 4,909
Likes: 0
From: 2005 sso, 1/4 finals,3rd in 60ft; 2004 sso,semi finals,2nd in 60ft time; 2003 standard car 2nd 60ft
i dont have a problem with lagg just want to get to 300bhp or as near as possibly with the money
or more than 300bhp if i can
[Edited by scooby-si - 12/27/2002 5:53:11 PM]
or more than 300bhp if i can
[Edited by scooby-si - 12/27/2002 5:53:11 PM]
#20
John many thanks for such a detailed reply,its cleared up quite a few issues.I'm not trying to brown nose when I say its to everyones benefit that you post here.Have a great new year and keep reassuring the paranoid! Deep
ps, Si,sorry for hijacking your thread
ps, Si,sorry for hijacking your thread
#23
As John say's, you could (or should) think about a second hand Link ECU.
I would go for a new VF23 turbo with the second hand Link. Money would be very tight at £1500, but it's achievable with maybey an extra month or two saving?.
Possibly look at getting some Samco hosing for the intercooler in the near future.
You will get good torgue figures and 300bhp with the mods you've got, plus a new turbo and re-mappable ECU with a safe map.
You wont need to upgrade the injectors or fuel pump at the moment.
I would go for a new VF23 turbo with the second hand Link. Money would be very tight at £1500, but it's achievable with maybey an extra month or two saving?.
Possibly look at getting some Samco hosing for the intercooler in the near future.
You will get good torgue figures and 300bhp with the mods you've got, plus a new turbo and re-mappable ECU with a safe map.
You wont need to upgrade the injectors or fuel pump at the moment.
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