Knock sensor problem
#2
did a bit off digging 4 u M8 & found this prev post, hope this helps
I have checked that site regarding the ECU codes and resetting the ECU.
I get codes 22, 24 & 44.
22 - Knock Sensor. Could this need replacing or is there a way of testing it? If I have to replace it would I be better putting something like the KnockLink in as I understand this can be plugged into factory equipment? Is this hard?
24 - Idle air control solenoid valve. It was idling quite erratically and nearly cuts when revs drop dramatically but seems ok when slow gradually. I have gone through a few posts about this and have tried removing the air intake hose (long windy one from left to right) to the sensor (sensor 10 on the site) - kept the engine revving and then sprayed carb cleaner in (quarter can). At first when I reconnected it was like a dog. A reset and a drive and it was better but not cured. Do I need to replace it?
44 - Wastegate control solenoid valve. Again like above I noticed a few posts on spraying carb cleaner through and wil try this asap.
Any hints/help to cure it - most appreciated.
I have checked that site regarding the ECU codes and resetting the ECU.
I get codes 22, 24 & 44.
22 - Knock Sensor. Could this need replacing or is there a way of testing it? If I have to replace it would I be better putting something like the KnockLink in as I understand this can be plugged into factory equipment? Is this hard?
24 - Idle air control solenoid valve. It was idling quite erratically and nearly cuts when revs drop dramatically but seems ok when slow gradually. I have gone through a few posts about this and have tried removing the air intake hose (long windy one from left to right) to the sensor (sensor 10 on the site) - kept the engine revving and then sprayed carb cleaner in (quarter can). At first when I reconnected it was like a dog. A reset and a drive and it was better but not cured. Do I need to replace it?
44 - Wastegate control solenoid valve. Again like above I noticed a few posts on spraying carb cleaner through and wil try this asap.
Any hints/help to cure it - most appreciated.
#5
Its horrible when you get a bad response to a thread
I will help you mate
you will need to replace it if it is a fault that wont go away. For example have you reset the ECU and has the code come back up.
anyway to replace one, do as follows:
take off the intake pipe that comes from behind your air filter to the turbo (the big main black plastic pipe). This is done to give space.
Disconnect the return pipe to the header tank (coolent tank) from the header tank and move out the way. I snapped the header tank when doing mine!!!
the knock sensor looks like this
if you look at the T piece in the pipe near the end of the inlet. Then bellow this you can see the intake pipes. The big metal silver 4 branch on the pic on the top of the engine linking all 4 cylinders. Well the sensor is directly below the left hand side back part of the intake, near the pipe you took off
More to follow
I will help you mate
you will need to replace it if it is a fault that wont go away. For example have you reset the ECU and has the code come back up.
anyway to replace one, do as follows:
take off the intake pipe that comes from behind your air filter to the turbo (the big main black plastic pipe). This is done to give space.
Disconnect the return pipe to the header tank (coolent tank) from the header tank and move out the way. I snapped the header tank when doing mine!!!
the knock sensor looks like this
if you look at the T piece in the pipe near the end of the inlet. Then bellow this you can see the intake pipes. The big metal silver 4 branch on the pic on the top of the engine linking all 4 cylinders. Well the sensor is directly below the left hand side back part of the intake, near the pipe you took off
More to follow
#6
unfortunatly carnt get pics up to help you so you will have to read carefully.
As I said remove plastic intake after the air filter, all the way to turbo. Either slacken and move out the way or remove completely.
Second remove the return on the header tank. (The pipe on the right), bend it out the way. you dont need to remove the end near the engine.
As a guide follow the pipe you have just removed to the engine block. It will go into the turbo. In the area where you are now focussed, look behind where the pipe goes into the turbo near the 4 branch silver air intake and you will see in that are the knock sensor. It has a bolt going straight through it. Remove the bolt with a long extension and socket and the knock sensor is loose. Disconnet the plug (takes a bit off persuding) and pull out sensor. Greese new sensor base and repeat the process in reverse. Sorry for not been dead specific its been a few months since ive done it and I could look at pics to guide you.
Hope this helps
Ronnie
As I said remove plastic intake after the air filter, all the way to turbo. Either slacken and move out the way or remove completely.
Second remove the return on the header tank. (The pipe on the right), bend it out the way. you dont need to remove the end near the engine.
As a guide follow the pipe you have just removed to the engine block. It will go into the turbo. In the area where you are now focussed, look behind where the pipe goes into the turbo near the 4 branch silver air intake and you will see in that are the knock sensor. It has a bolt going straight through it. Remove the bolt with a long extension and socket and the knock sensor is loose. Disconnet the plug (takes a bit off persuding) and pull out sensor. Greese new sensor base and repeat the process in reverse. Sorry for not been dead specific its been a few months since ive done it and I could look at pics to guide you.
Hope this helps
Ronnie
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#10
Scooby Regular
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 15,239
Likes: 1
From: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
mine is on the passenger side of the engine bay..
and requires no pipes to be removed to access..
David
and requires no pipes to be removed to access..
David
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