HELP - car nearly stalls
#1
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From: Midlands - between notts and derby !
Any suggestions.
Car has had a new clutch. Was fine before.
Now after the car has been running for a while and you come to a stand still the revs hunt down to about 100rpm then back to 900rpm. Does this three times and then is ok ! Will somtimes nearly stall and jerk when you pull off (oeerrr).
SelectMonitor is showing no faults !
Any suggestion of things to check ?
Dave
Car has had a new clutch. Was fine before.
Now after the car has been running for a while and you come to a stand still the revs hunt down to about 100rpm then back to 900rpm. Does this three times and then is ok ! Will somtimes nearly stall and jerk when you pull off (oeerrr).
SelectMonitor is showing no faults !
Any suggestion of things to check ?
Dave
#4
I'd be interested as to what the fault is as my my99 is doing the same - only when its warm though.
Oxygen sensor or maf?
Looked on select monitor and the maf voltage rises with throttle openings but the o2 sensor doesn't really alter with throttle openings at idle; only flicks between 325 and 330mv - mechanic said its supposed to do that.
Any help appreciated as i don't want to change both!
Oxygen sensor or maf?
Looked on select monitor and the maf voltage rises with throttle openings but the o2 sensor doesn't really alter with throttle openings at idle; only flicks between 325 and 330mv - mechanic said its supposed to do that.
Any help appreciated as i don't want to change both!
#5
At idle it'll typically be the MAF.
The select monitor basically doesn't tell you anything until the sensor's completely gone (i.e. after your engine has anyway).
If it's an MY99/00, I think it's a pretty good safety precaution - dodgy idle or no dodgy idle - to change the MAF sensor to the new type, which is (allegedly!) a lot more robust. Either that or get LambdaLink, etc. to keep an eye on it.
The MAF sensor is also cheaper than the lambda sensor if you're buying the 'real' thing & the dealers doesn't try to flog you the entire housing rather than just the sensor.
The select monitor basically doesn't tell you anything until the sensor's completely gone (i.e. after your engine has anyway).
If it's an MY99/00, I think it's a pretty good safety precaution - dodgy idle or no dodgy idle - to change the MAF sensor to the new type, which is (allegedly!) a lot more robust. Either that or get LambdaLink, etc. to keep an eye on it.
The MAF sensor is also cheaper than the lambda sensor if you're buying the 'real' thing & the dealers doesn't try to flog you the entire housing rather than just the sensor.
#6
I have a MY99 and had the same problem. A MAF sensor sorted it out for only £54 Part No. 22794AA010 (it's called a "Meter air Flow").
Your sub dealer should be able to get it for you next day.
Good Luck Pat
Your sub dealer should be able to get it for you next day.
Good Luck Pat
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#9
Hiya Dave, long time no hear/see.
Mine did that when i was faffing around with ECU's. 100 rpm up to 900 ish etc sorted it's self out after about 100 miles. Had the ECU reset using a select monitor (For something non related) and the symptoms returned, after about 100 miles was and still is ok. Just wondering if it's got summat to do with the ECU being reset if they for some reason disconnected your battery whilst doing the clutch!
Mind you, a change of MAF seems to have cleared it for you though. Just thought i'd post my experience so that people don't suddenly become paranoid about thier MAF sensors. If idleing is iffy, it probably will be the MAF sensor, but consider first if your ECU has been reset either deliberatly or otherwise.
Mikey MY00 Decat ITG Dawes VTA
Mine did that when i was faffing around with ECU's. 100 rpm up to 900 ish etc sorted it's self out after about 100 miles. Had the ECU reset using a select monitor (For something non related) and the symptoms returned, after about 100 miles was and still is ok. Just wondering if it's got summat to do with the ECU being reset if they for some reason disconnected your battery whilst doing the clutch!
Mind you, a change of MAF seems to have cleared it for you though. Just thought i'd post my experience so that people don't suddenly become paranoid about thier MAF sensors. If idleing is iffy, it probably will be the MAF sensor, but consider first if your ECU has been reset either deliberatly or otherwise.
Mikey MY00 Decat ITG Dawes VTA
#12
cALL ME MAD IF YOU LIKE, BUT MY REASONING IS THAT (Doh cap lock on, sorry ) if any work of significance is carried out on the cars, then the battery tends to get disconnected. This effectivly resets the ecu. Upon restarting, the ecu has to "learn" the engine again and if everything is not how it was when it left the factory i.e decatted, different induction kit etc, then it takes a few miles to find a whole host of parameters. Much like the lambda sensor will monitor across a range of signals, the ecu would need time to settle.
That's my take, i ain't no ecu expert (I'll leave that to far more complex people ) but sometimes, these sorts of explinations might actually be right.
Mikey
That's my take, i ain't no ecu expert (I'll leave that to far more complex people ) but sometimes, these sorts of explinations might actually be right.
Mikey
#16
John,
Thanks for the feedback.
The ECU threw up an error code 32 months ago which the mechanic saw but still thinks its the MAF as i have a K&N fitted. Shall i tell him he's wrong?!? :-)
Do you have any idea of cost for a lambda sensor?
Cheers
Jon
Thanks for the feedback.
The ECU threw up an error code 32 months ago which the mechanic saw but still thinks its the MAF as i have a K&N fitted. Shall i tell him he's wrong?!? :-)
Do you have any idea of cost for a lambda sensor?
Cheers
Jon
#17
Bingo,
Same problem as my MY99, been scratching my head wondering what the problem was......so now looks like its either the MAF sensor or the Lambda sensor......did you also notice if the car surged on acceleration in 5th....I noticed that the other day.
Will take her in and get my local scoob dealer to look at her.
tks for the confirmation though
JimmyR
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