MAF sensors - one size fits all?
#1
Hi,
It's quite probable that my MAF has begun to fail as i've got the dreaded 'hunting at idle' syndrome!
I've done a search and found the part no (22794AA010) for the replacement Bosch 4 pin element but my question is...Is the same element fitted to all models and can you clean them (if dirty - I run with a K&N filter)or do they HAVE to be replaced?
Cheers..Dave...MY00 WRX RA V6 Ltd.
It's quite probable that my MAF has begun to fail as i've got the dreaded 'hunting at idle' syndrome!
I've done a search and found the part no (22794AA010) for the replacement Bosch 4 pin element but my question is...Is the same element fitted to all models and can you clean them (if dirty - I run with a K&N filter)or do they HAVE to be replaced?
Cheers..Dave...MY00 WRX RA V6 Ltd.
#2
Safer to replace. The part number is correct for all MY99/00 UK and imports. You can clean them with brake cleaner, but the bigger risk is your engine running too lean and advanced. This is even more dangerous on an import. Change the sensor if it is that that is failing for peace of mind - they are about £70.
#5
This morning I've connected the two blacks under the steering column and got a reading of 32 so i'm now working on the assumption that it's the Lambda that's failed and not the MAF.
This seems to make sense as the fuel consumption has gone through the roof (as opposed to running lean with a MAF failure)
Is it easy to change the Lambda?
I can see the follwing procedure...
1.Heat shield thingy off.
2.Unplug and remove old sensor.
3.Fit new sensor and replug back in.
4.ECU reset
5.Perform Big Cheesy grin at success!
Is there anything else i should know/watch out for?
Thanks
Dave.
This seems to make sense as the fuel consumption has gone through the roof (as opposed to running lean with a MAF failure)
Is it easy to change the Lambda?
I can see the follwing procedure...
1.Heat shield thingy off.
2.Unplug and remove old sensor.
3.Fit new sensor and replug back in.
4.ECU reset
5.Perform Big Cheesy grin at success!
Is there anything else i should know/watch out for?
Thanks
Dave.
#6
is there a way to order such a MAF sensor here in Belgium, because that number is unknown by my dealers stocklist on computer....!!!
Ian
#7
Thanks Ian, I willcontact them asap !!!!
To Dave, I had the same problem,my Lamba was stalled at 0.8mV, so it wouldn't work properly and also burnt a lot of fuel, my garage replaced it in about 10 min., under warranty.
Since then, the car runs like new, I also use the original filter+housing to keep the MAF safe, just removed the air restrictor in the fender....
To Dave, I had the same problem,my Lamba was stalled at 0.8mV, so it wouldn't work properly and also burnt a lot of fuel, my garage replaced it in about 10 min., under warranty.
Since then, the car runs like new, I also use the original filter+housing to keep the MAF safe, just removed the air restrictor in the fender....
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#10
Dave,
The K&N panel filter, is it pink / red ? if so it will have an oil applied to trap fine particles, it is this oil which eventually contaminates the mass air folw sensor as it is invariably drawn off the filter and through your inlet duct. A dry type panel filter or orig. is best. Martin
The K&N panel filter, is it pink / red ? if so it will have an oil applied to trap fine particles, it is this oil which eventually contaminates the mass air folw sensor as it is invariably drawn off the filter and through your inlet duct. A dry type panel filter or orig. is best. Martin
#11
Mmmm..not sure about the filter - i'll have to check when i'm under the bonnet tomorrow. It'll be just my luck to change the Lambda only to find out that the MAF has gone!
Thanks for your input guys.
Thanks for your input guys.
#13
>>just removed the air restrictor in the fender....
I guess this is what is really wrong with Scoobynet these days...
*DON'T* do this, it's one of the best ways to kill your engine. Trust me on this one...
Apart from that: MAF's die. Period. K&N or not, they just do. An induction kit may make it go sooner, but even with a totally standard intake system (including resonator) they go. Consider them as consumables. Their latest price is about 50 Euro (yes, also in Belgium and, if a dealer says otherwise? he's just taking you to the cleaners, 1OO % fact) so change every year if needed.
Fitting a K&N or equivalent is rather silly, as the filter itself is only a minor part (about 3 %) of the total intake system restriction. The paper filter however will do a better job filtering silica etc.
Removing the resonator will make sure the MAF gets killed a lot sooner, due to water (in heavy rain) splashing.
PS: Wally, don't send me any private mails as an answer to my post... if you do I'll personally make a trip to Antwerp to have a few quiet words.
Until then, please try to contribute on things you actually know about. MAF failures are serious business, and your constant misinformation does not help.
Disclaimer: this info only is correct in relation to MY99/00 engines.
To the original poster... a quick DeltaDash run may reveal in seconds what exactly is wrong or not. There's a 75/25% chance it's actually your MAF indeed, and not the lambda sensor.
Sorry for the ruck, but it saddens me to see totally clueless people giving "advise" on here, it shouldn't be that way.
Theo
Edit: speeling.
[Edited by EvilBevel - 2/17/2003 5:09:58 PM]
I guess this is what is really wrong with Scoobynet these days...
*DON'T* do this, it's one of the best ways to kill your engine. Trust me on this one...
Apart from that: MAF's die. Period. K&N or not, they just do. An induction kit may make it go sooner, but even with a totally standard intake system (including resonator) they go. Consider them as consumables. Their latest price is about 50 Euro (yes, also in Belgium and, if a dealer says otherwise? he's just taking you to the cleaners, 1OO % fact) so change every year if needed.
Fitting a K&N or equivalent is rather silly, as the filter itself is only a minor part (about 3 %) of the total intake system restriction. The paper filter however will do a better job filtering silica etc.
Removing the resonator will make sure the MAF gets killed a lot sooner, due to water (in heavy rain) splashing.
PS: Wally, don't send me any private mails as an answer to my post... if you do I'll personally make a trip to Antwerp to have a few quiet words.
Until then, please try to contribute on things you actually know about. MAF failures are serious business, and your constant misinformation does not help.
Disclaimer: this info only is correct in relation to MY99/00 engines.
To the original poster... a quick DeltaDash run may reveal in seconds what exactly is wrong or not. There's a 75/25% chance it's actually your MAF indeed, and not the lambda sensor.
Sorry for the ruck, but it saddens me to see totally clueless people giving "advise" on here, it shouldn't be that way.
Theo
Edit: speeling.
[Edited by EvilBevel - 2/17/2003 5:09:58 PM]
#15
Again - thanks for your posts guys.
However here's another one for you (same subject really)...After changing the Lambda or MAF or Both, I'll need to do an ECU reset.
Now, as i understand it, i can simply disconnect the battery to do this, but for how long?
Will it reset instantly or do i have to leave it overnight as some threads have mentioned?
However here's another one for you (same subject really)...After changing the Lambda or MAF or Both, I'll need to do an ECU reset.
Now, as i understand it, i can simply disconnect the battery to do this, but for how long?
Will it reset instantly or do i have to leave it overnight as some threads have mentioned?
#16
Short answer is http://www.saxonfields.freeserve.co....iag%20Page.htm
[Edited by EvilBevel - 2/17/2003 5:44:05 PM]
[Edited by EvilBevel - 2/17/2003 5:44:05 PM]
#17
Now thats what I called sh*t, if you want to read out the ECU simply hop in by your dealer and ask him,instead of ripping your dashboard apart and count yourself silly on the blinking lights... BTW : I have a good dealer here, he even loans me the deltadash equipment if needed...
#19
Before anyone attacks me, read this.
Of course with the deltadash and my Unichip I get some wrong info (like boost, ign timing etc.) but with there are parameters that I can use, and there is also a more or less same program from Unichip.
And for the die-hards : I have a MY2000 with Unichip, another one out of the garage has a MY01 with Ecutek. Compare those two on the road and there is not so much difference, I have more low boost when the other car makes it up in the high revs...
Of course with the deltadash and my Unichip I get some wrong info (like boost, ign timing etc.) but with there are parameters that I can use, and there is also a more or less same program from Unichip.
And for the die-hards : I have a MY2000 with Unichip, another one out of the garage has a MY01 with Ecutek. Compare those two on the road and there is not so much difference, I have more low boost when the other car makes it up in the high revs...
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