ragnarock2

Hi, I just wondered who can do (i.e. who is seen as the "best") the ecutek v3 remap for my car? I currently have a Blitz Nur SPec R exhaust on it, and really want to replace the downpipe (as it made a hell of a difference on my MY98 UK car), but obviously want to wait till I get a remap to run it safely (i.e. not melt the engine). I currently run the car on Optimax + 75mls NF booster per three quarters of a tank (usually more concentrated than this). I have a boost guage and a Knock Link fitted, but obviously want to get the car mapped to enable me to start modding it "properly".
What sort of power figure would I be looking at with Full decat, the above fuel and a remap?

Many thanks

john banks

Bob Rawle is your man at http://www.brdevelopments.com

Figures depend on rolling road, but with the setup you suggest 320 BHP would be ballpark.

ragnarock2

Fantastic, thanks John! I presume that I will not lose any of the "driveability" of the car (i.e. it will still go like the proverbial off the shovel despite being mapped for UK fuel and booster?)

Many thanks

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

I think what John is saying is that basically thats the most reliable solution with your engine (and towards the top end with your turbo).
Bob will remap your car to run uk fuel and i doubt that you will need to run octane booster after that

Tony

PS, i hope youve upgraded those brakes

mega_stream

Anyone know if there's an "off the peg" type remap available then for an STi5, say based on a P1 map so the car's better suited to UK fuel?

john banks

Yes I'm sure anyone that tunes STis would have one, the problem is I think we would all insist on seeing an STi to set it up ourselves because of the high degree of tune involved compared to a UK car.

ragnarock2

Could it be mapped for booster as well, as I don't mind that expense, and obviously, the car will prefer drinking a higher octane fuel - hence less danger of knock even after re-map!

john banks

Yes and no - depends what you mean. If you map it to the edge on booster it will be no safer than mapping it to the edge without. The best bet is to map it with a good safety margin for Optimax, and then if there are issues in very hot weather track days you can use booster.

ragnarock2

So what power difference will there be between a map for just optimax + safety margin, and Optimax + booster + safety margin? I suppose a saving of nearly £3 per tank is a big difference cost-wise, and the map will effectively pay for itself in a year or so!

Will the characteristics of the car be changed (i.e. will it pull faster/harder) I realise that the timing will be retarded slightly, but i assume there is no "power loss" as a result of this?

TBH, i am quite happy with the standard brakes at the moment, they are in a different league to my MY98 that I had before! Would I need to upgrade anything else (fuel pump etc) to run the power John quotes safely?

john banks

Fuel pump is debatable on this model at this level. Some have had good ones, some bad. All the P1s/STi 5/6 I've done have been on standard pump and have been OK.

Power gains vary - £3 worth of octane booster might get you one or two degrees extra timing. I think you are far better mapping it without and using the octane booster as safety margin if you can't get Optimax or if you are running on a track. Gains are probably under 10 BHP for small cost effective doses.

You can get extra power on the same octane by using more boost but retarding the timing in the case of the STi/P1.

ragnarock2

Cool, that means I can get the wife into thinking it is a good idea as it will save on booster!!! Cheers John, and sorry for raiding your brains on this bank holiday weekend!

As a side not, will the boost be raised then? As the gauge I have curently shows around 1bar when blatting it in higher gears, does this sound right? What boost would I expect to see after a remap?

john banks

Target boost is 15.7 PSI midrange dropping to 14.6 at the top on the 5/6/P1.

Usually I change this to about 2 PSI more across the board - depends on the car.

Trout

iTrader: (1)

On my Sti V the fuel pump was not producing any extra fuel over 1 bar - so at 17.5psi it is not a horror - I can comment from experience that if you do this and then say go on track for extended higher boost running then you car may run lean.

Personally I would fit the pump if I was upping the boost pressure.

Rannoch

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Your happy with the standard brakes?!!
Well my MY00 had the same 4 pots on, i now have something that actually stops the car fitted .
Having 300+bhp and having cr@p brakes means that a car with 250bhp and better brakes will be quicker than you! (which is a tad annoying i think )
The original 4 pots on my scoob were no match for some of the other cars ive owned, especially the 306 GTI-6 which had amazing 2 pots (considerably better feel and bite than said subaru items).
You really do need to look into this area, performance is nothing without the ability to control it (ie brakes) as you can still get fade of these (and look at how many P1 owners opted for the upgraded brake package as they knew the standard items sucked!)
Ask how many people with 300bhp+ are running standard items and i think you will find that most dont (even on a uk spec car with less than 300bhp would have upgraded items) and you will be surprised because its always been a weakness for the scoob (and the standard discs have a tendancy to crack quite easily with hard use).

Tony

[Edited by TonyBurns - 5/5/2003 10:04:25 AM]

ragnarock2

As i said Tony, I have gone up from a MY98 UK car - of which the brakes were absolutely terrible! The brakes on the type R seem fantastic, lots of bite! The guy who I got the car off now has a Porsche 911 Turbo (MY98), and commented on how the brakes on the Type R are better than the porker! As i understood it, the Type R brakes are slightly upgraded from the standard UK cars (stronger 2 pot rears)