hi all, just wondering what chip i should get for a MY97 UK saloon? and what adveantages would it have such as bhp gains?

CHEERS

 

Why do you want a chip? all they do is up the boost so you have more power. But they dont do anything about fuelling etc.
I suppose with a knocklink and Lambdalink to monitor then maybe its alright.

Not many people on here like superchips m8 some cars have had some nasty experiences (mainly import) with them, but there are people on here that have used them for a while with no probs.

Me included MY97 superchip and bleed valve took my car to 267bhp.

P.S I have one for sale at 80 quid all in.


GO EASY PEOPLE>

 

You can do the same as a superchip does for under a quid..

Save some money.. buy a knocklink..

then do a search on dawes devices..

if you want more boost, make a fuel cut defender..

But watch fueling carefully.

David

 

Let's be fair here, the Superchip is not a chip, it's a little black box with an opamp in it, costs about 5 quid to make, does nothing but fool the ECU into thinking it's running less boost than it really is, and hence it doesn't engage the fuel cut. You can achieve the same results for about 4 quid, a couple of bits from your local friendly Halfords and you're away.

A proper chip is, well, a chip, or more accurately, in the case of the MY97-98 Subaru JECS ECU, a mezzannine board. Power Engineering used to sell these as part of their Phase I remaps. This allows the tuner to alter the contents of the control maps in the stock ECU to allow it to run more boost. Why is this better than the Superchip? Well, the Superchip defeats the boost cut, but does nothing to alter the fuel and ignition table dimensions, so while the table was fine for the intended boost, you end up shooting off the end of the table... the ECU doesn't really have any data for the new operating point, so it uses the next closest map cell it can find... result is that the ECU runs ignition timing for (say) 1 bar at whatever boost you decide to run. It will be too far advanced and it will detonate, and if you're lucky then the ECU will pull the timing back, get all confused, keep it low, the car will drive crap off boost because it thinks there's something wrong (and it's right!).

Now compare this to the case where the stock ECU control parameters are altered. Now the map extends to the new operating point you'll be running at. It will have a more appropriate amount of ignition advance and hence it won't denonate. Result is a happy ECU, doesn't think that anything is wrong, car doesn't feel like a pile of poo on cruise, fuel economy is better. It's an engineered solution rather than a bodge. Only problem may be getting hold of one. They may still be available from Power Engineering. Of course you have the option of getting a PossumLink or similar aftermarket mappable ECU

In any event, I would suggest that the installation of a lambda and knock meter would be wise. If you can see that the engine is misbehaving then you can back off and investigate & fix before it becomes terminal. Ignorance may be bliss but it can also be quite expensive!

Cheers,

Pat.

 

Nice answer Pat, thanks for taking the time to explain. Every time I hear it I understand a bit more / better.