... for a 3rd-party one (e.g. Autometer, SPA, etc.) and did it cause the CEL to come on all the time.

If anyone has kept the original sender and Tee'ed it off, where did you get the T-Piece from and how big/small does it have to be to fit under the alternator?

Stefan

 

It doesn't cause a CEL problem (at least on my MY96) - all it did was turn on the oil warning lamp on the dash when the oil pressure was below 1.5 PSI.

The usefulness of this escapes me, as I don't believe I need a "your engine is dead" warning lamp - I'd probably already know from the noise!!

I now have an Autometer pressure gauge in there. The adaptor and pipework came from Le Mans motorsport. (The OE sender is 1/8BSP thread, and the Autometer is 1/8NPT... they aren't compatible)

 

So does your OEM low oil-pressure warning light stay on since the original senders not getting any signal ??

Stefan

 

On my car (replaced with defi) it does not cause a cel (even before the link ecu) or cause the low oil pressure light to come on, as i believe it is down to the fact (think Harvey once qouted it) that the OEM low pressure light is set to come on so low, it would be useless.

Steven

 

The oil light doesn't come on at all with the pressure switch disconnected. As Harvey and I have stated "It's more or less useless!"

I really should get around to making some kind of electronic thing to make the pressure light come on at a definable pressure using the new sender, but I really can't be bothered!

 

OK, thanks guys.

I just didn't want an annoying and useless light constantly lit on the dash.

I've got the SPA gauges, so I can set that to show an alarm if the pressure gets too low (and at least a decent level).

Stefan

 

Ozzy

Why not put your SPA pressure sensor into the plug over cylinder 3? There's more room and it saves disturbing the OE unit.

 

sorry, I may have got them mixed up, but doesn't the pressure fit under the alternator and it's the temp sensor that goes on top of #3 ??

that's why had planned anyway.

Stefan

 

There a very convenient oil way drilling that is plugged over cyl 3 that, with a T piece could take oil tamp and oil pressure. You will see the hex drive plug if you look down from the turbo side.

There isn't really enough room under the alternator for any extra take offs.

 

Agree there is little room at the alternator area but can be done with ease with the right components.

With an alternative turbo in place of the std TD04, i would say (cause i've done the job), there is just as little room at the plug for No 3 cylinder and if anything a bit more awkward to do due to location (There's easier access at the alternator)
CAn supply a finished pic if anyone wants but need a host to put on this board. Stefan?)

Alan

[Edited by AlanG - 6/24/2003 6:14:34 PM]

 

see BAH's very good pdf here:


http://homepage.ntlworld.com/bah.bah...%20Install.pdf



Dan

 

Alan,

Just send me an e-mail with any pics and I'll host them on my webspace.

Cheers,

Stefan (still @ work though )

 

Sent you pics Stefan

Use what you see fit on this board.

Alan

 

It is possible to fit the pressure sender and warning light sender on a T fitting and still clear the alternator but you need the right fittings and an easier solution IMO is to run an Aeroquip to the drivers side inner wing (maybe near the boost control gubbins)
This then gives plenty space to do the necessary.
The O/E warning switch is supposed to come on at 8-10psi which is useless. Roger Clark Motor Sport do an alternative that comes on around 30psi from memory.(Simon 01455 828610) This provides better protection at tick over. The Spa and several of the other guages have a fully adjustable flashing warning red tell tale. I have mine set at 80psi. This gives a warning to protect you in normal driving/cruise. The downside is you have to live with a flashing light at tick over or trickling along in traffic. The warning point will vary from engine to engine. I have about 88-92 psi, hot when cruising.
The oil temp sender fits quite easily in the plug above no. 3. IMO a T-piece should not be used to accomodate two senders because the oil sensor is then remote (by some distance) to the oil flow,can be influenced by the temperature of the surrounding components, has less chance of measuring the oil temperature accurately and will be slow to respond to any change in temperature of the oil.

 

Thanks for everyone's input. My plan was too simply fit the Oil Temp sensor in the plug above #3. I didn't plan on using a T-piece for that since there's nothing there to begin with (well, except a bung IIRC).

I had always assumed that I could just replace the OEM Oil-Pressure sensor with the new SPA one and heard about it being a bit tight with some as it's below the alternator.

Then someone else wondered by deactivating the OEM sensor would do anything different to the car - i.e. throw a CEL or illuminate the dash light constantly, etc.. That would just plain annoy me, then I remembered Alan had fitted his Oil Pressure sensor on a T-piece together with the original (for what that's worth, 10psi ).

Unfortunately I've got a hill race this evening and tomorrow I'm off to bag a few more munros, so this'll have to wait to the weekend anyway.

Stefan