Hi

Thanks to all who replied to my previous post about the SECS and KC display.

I'm just a little unsure but does the SECS have a minus sign before the KC value to indicate that the ECU (engine!!) is having a hard time with knock sensor activity ??

Midlife..

Was at Stan Palmers the other day and saw the piston from an STi& which had "let go"......half of it was melted !!!!!

 

knock correction will be retard ignition

on my display its displaed as RET

 

don`t worry TOO much midlife, that piston you were shown was out of an STi that was sometimes run on normal unleaded and sometime on super unleaded, neither had octane booster to top them up. you run yours on optimax and have just started using octane booster

 

Abbey

did it come out a black STi ??

Midlife....

PS Sticky...If the ECU is retarding the ignition timing then the knock sensor is active ?? Where are the SECS boys when you need them ??

PPS Abbey do the Cumbrian Scoobs fancy chipping in and getting Delta Dash ??

 

came out of a yellow STi 5 or 6 i`m lead to believe. the lad who owns it has just been stung for near 4 grand insurance premium

would be interested in chipping in for a delta dash

 

Knock correction should read minus. If the ECU detects det it will retard the ignition.

It is important to understand that Knock correction is 'after the event', so the last thing you want to do is "ride" the knock sensor. What does it read btw?

 

Hypo

The SECS KC reading is a solid 0.0 at idle and on no boost / low throttle. It usually reads about 8.5 to 9 degrees while on boost / overtaking etc.

However, looking at Ignition Advance (BTDC) this runs at about 40 degrees and drops to 17-20 doing the same on-boost / overtaking.

I am now more confused than a blind hedgehog....in a bag (you have to be a Blackadder fan for that one )

Midlife......

 

Some time ago I asked Simon from PSI3 about the knock correction sign. If the knock correction is negative a minus sign will be displays on the SECS just like it is on the boost display when off boost. With no sign then the knock correction is positive. I think you have to start worrying if you get negative knock correction.

Alan

 

just go onto data page 1 and then the problem goes away...

gordo

 

Lemmy

Lifesaver... Thanks M8


Elgordano

I bought the SECS cos I saw your picture taken (I think) at TSL in the pod replacing the clock.SMART..do you have 19" team dynamics alloys ??

I have now moved from "Tarty" to "Worried" as I have an Import, no warranty because of the mods and read about 4-5 grand rebuilds when engines "let go". Thank god for Ian Armstrong at Stan Palmers to keep me on the straight and narrow.

....DOH! SECS page one I have changed the BV (battery volts) to KC below the Afr (1.6 lift off throttle) to 0.8 when overtaking.

Looking to get Delta Dash to keep an eye on things

Midlife..

 

Abby, should be getting the material tomorrow for that piece of fabrication you were after (Un)Fortunately i'm away this weekend for the Jim Clark rally, so i'll make it up when I come back.

Midlife, why don't you get the engine fully rebuilt now? It's cheaper to do when the engine hasn't imploded!

 

Positive (unsigned by default) knock correction on a new age (Denso) ECU is the total advance ADDED to the main/base ignition map. It is made up by a multiple of the ignition advance multiplier and the ignition correction map and also by fine/learned ignition correction by RPM/load zone.

Negative knock correction is instantaneous correction in a particular zone from the above expected level, and does not imply ignition below the main/base ignition map.

Denso ECUs routinely run actively on the knock sensor and readily achieve OEM levels of reliability.

 

there, that made sense didn`t it? wish i had half a tech brain!!! dammit!

Mark, splendicimo chief. Just can`t wait to get up to John Banks and get some power out of the sodding thing now....mines definatley a little slower than my mates full de-cat/blitz sus induction MY00.....am GUTTED!!!!!

 

John

Many thanks for the swift reply..like many "Cumbrian Scoobs" I think we would all like a trip for a custom re-map .

I have read the "True Grip" article and also logged onto the ecuscotland.co.uk website for help and advice, and followed posts from Pete Croney and Bob Rawle etc. I have understood most things but have struggled with the post above, this is entirely my fault and not yours. I just don't want to blow an engine

Denso....ECU (I guess is the Japan OEM tuner for the MY01-02 ECU, I usually pick that car on Gran Turismo 3 !!) safety features which are retained by the re-map should protect from Det, particularly as I have been told the example map for the MY02 de-cat is conservative.

I think the bottom line is ...do I still need a knocklink to tell me if anything "naughty" is happening that the ECU can't cope with ??

Thanks again


Midlife...

PS Mark...There's an Imploded STi (?5) in Yellow at Stan Palmers..not a pretty sight

 

i wouldnt worry to much i saw 7.5 on my display tonite and that was with the car idleing from cold

ive seen 8.0 while driving although it quickly disapeared, hey, if yours is gonna blow at least u know mins gonna blow as well lol

the thing is that its bound to retard the ignition anyways as your not on 100ron fuel
so expect it to move about?

from memory mine runs about 45 ignition advance while booting it?
the secs should be reading exactly the same data as my scoobymonitor as its all from the select port

 

Lit my knocklink right up on way home from work tonight whilst giving it some beans going from 3rd to 4th, only did it for a split second so i`m assuming thats ok for a one off.............
i hope!!!!!

 

It is not ideal. ECU knock correction when it is working well can just be perceived as a few greens flickering in the midrange. You cannot rely on readout of knock correction. Every Subaru not under warranty or one that you will keep until after warranty is up should IMHO have a knocklink. Paranoid indeed for good reason.

BTW I don't sell knocklinks

 

Can someone explain exactly what the SECS thing is and should I get one as well as knocklink. I'm going to get an Apexi S-afc fitted - does this cover any of the remits that SECS and/or knocklink monitor?

 

Not sure whether I should be worried or n ot but my KC on my secs never does anything other than sit at 0.0

I have a Unichip , however this surely has no relation to what KC the ecu sees??????

 

5 Type R

My 5 Type R with SECs also reads 0.0 KC. All the time.

Even bought a new knock sensor to try it out.

No change, and yet unit will show ERROR CODE 22 when sensor disconnected!

Weird?

 

My KC often reads 8deg. Could you expand on your explaination please John!

Steve

 

Yes it is normal!

 

http://www.ecutek.com/tuning/ignition/

Bedtime reading.

 

John

R U Saying 0.00 is normal , or 8 deg is normal.

Not sure still whether I should be worried or not????

 

Depends on model year. 0 is normal(ish) on a classic - ish because they really should be showing some knock correction + or - a degree or so here and there. Some modified cars of the same spec as others with working knock sensors do not seem to.

New age cars should run positive.

As well as ECUs not picking up det, some pick up det when it is not there. Just fit forged pistons with excessive clearance and you might get -8 degrees KC when there is no det. Slappy engines can do the same. Breaking a 3rd gear can give quite impressive negative knock correction as well

 

OK so nothing really to worry about then I guess

Mines a MY99 Type R with Unichip with mapped WI system, so quite feasibly no knock?

 

Quite feasibly so it could det as well. Worth having a knocklink certainly.

sg72's car is a pain in the *** for detting. It is not lean, and is well kitted with a FMIC and a VF34 but it just loves to det with the slightest hint of overboost at 4500-5000 RPM in higher gears. Using AG340 (P1) code, every other P1/STi I've seen is very active on the knock sensor, but despite Steve changing it it just merrily runs on zero. It is only a bit of transitional det, but we are both paranoid as this is his second engine. Normally a P1 based ECU would get rid of this sort of thing, but every time the weather changes it seems to come back, and we've pulled a fair bit of timing out of this hole.

 

John

I know we have talked about this before but what would the cost be for you to do an ECUTEK on my 5 Type R????

Not unhappy with the Unichip, but maybe feel that it needs someone who knows the specific model well

It runs pretty standard spec with the exception of a full dp and system and dual pump WI system.

Perhaps email me off list.

 

Don't bother if you are happy. Buy a knocklink though.

 

Cant say fairer than that.

Will do ........... All the best