Ninj

Been browsing the archives and it appears as a good number of Type Rs have let go. Is this the classic No3 Cylinder issue or the fact that Type Rs dont like UK fuel?

Im seriously considering buying one but not mad if its gonna get me into a world of repairs.

Was this the same for the V3 V4 and V5?

Im fancying something quicker than standard but I dont want serous reliability probs.

Thanks for any info

Rgds

N

Leviathan

Here we go again
Type Rs are fine, its UK fuel and some peeps misunderstanding them thats the problem IMOH.
Get a standard one, stay away from mods like zorsts, filters, noisy dump valves ect. Unless you have it mapped to suit the mods.
Having said that, modded 'R's are ok if, and its a big if, the mods have been carried out properly.
They have to be run on optimax and O.B with no exceptions IMOH.

Im after one as we speak and the first move i shall be making is to get it re-mapped to run on our fuel.
Also, do a search on 'oil change procedure' thats yet another can of worms which is applicable to all scoobs.

Edited to say. Its abit of a myth that its always no.3 that lets go, it can and does happen on any cyl,as ive been imformed, also almost any scoob, not just the Type R.
No one can put a finger on exactly what causes it, but its understood to be a number of things together, ie, bad serviceing procedure, bad fuel-dettonation, excess heat and sustaind high engine speed ect.
Its a very perplexing subject, spoken on here many times over.
You will also find people with cars that have never had any problems atall.
Hope this helps.


[Edited by Leviathan - 7/17/2003 8:03:44 PM]

Gedi

My STI5 TypeR runs perfect without octaine booster. No det at all, even in the recent hot weather.

As said, the engine blowing thing seems to derive from people not keeping an eye on whats happening e.g.
- maf going and not having a lambdalink installed to indicate.
- people changing filter, exhaust, dv and not remapping
- etc

[Edited by Gedi - 7/17/2003 9:14:10 PM]

black knight

type R are deffo the best. no reliability probs accept if u redline for abt 40miles then it goes BANG! on traffic light grand prix, type R's are near perfect.

service regularly is a must. no probs with fueling or fuel quality. run on optimax at all times.

Ninj

Sounds ok then really.

Ive got a big decision now then because I'm not sure if I'm mad about a return to the £££ of Optimax (appreciate it's worth though!) after a lifetime of it with my old car.

Plus, it's probably a bit overkill for the fiance to be trotting about in. Maybe a UK MY00/01 might be a better option for now
Cheers for all the advice guys

Rgds

N

[Edited by Ninj - 7/17/2003 10:00:28 PM]

dhorwich

could be worth giving these instructions to the person changing the oil too..

Thank greasemonkey for the tips..

1) Warm engine
2) Drain old oil from sump
3) Remove old filter
4) Pre-fill new filter with fresh oil. Fill and keep filling until it won't take anymore.
5) Apply new filter
6) Apply new washer to sump plug and tighten
7) Fill engine oil filler to mid-way between two holes on the dipstick
8) Disconnect crank sensor
9) (Preferably) remove spark plugs
10) Dry crank engine at least until oil pressure light extinguishes - ideally for 20 seconds or so more.
11) Refit spark plugs
12) Refit crank sensor plug
13) Start engine, leave to idle for a good minute or so before driving for oil pressure to stabilise
14) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
15) Go for slow drive until engine fully warmed
16) Top engine oil to upper hole
17) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks


Dan

TAFFWRXRA

GO FOR IT GET AN RA PMSL I MIGHT BE BIASED