Boost pressure and HKS intake.
#1
Another boost question I'm afraid!
I have a MY93 that up until know has been running a peak boost of .92 bar, I have just fitted a HKS induction kit, the one with the cast aluminium plenum chamber, on the first run it has just upped the peak boost to 1.0 bar! The car has a full decat, but no other engine mods. I'm not unhappy with that! However I was not expecting a boost increase. Other than 'deting' do I need to worry about anything else, I also have a Manual boost controller to put on, what boost is it safe to run?
Cheers
Ivan
I have a MY93 that up until know has been running a peak boost of .92 bar, I have just fitted a HKS induction kit, the one with the cast aluminium plenum chamber, on the first run it has just upped the peak boost to 1.0 bar! The car has a full decat, but no other engine mods. I'm not unhappy with that! However I was not expecting a boost increase. Other than 'deting' do I need to worry about anything else, I also have a Manual boost controller to put on, what boost is it safe to run?
Cheers
Ivan
#3
What boost it safe to run is the million dollar question, what is good for one car is not always the same for another.
The increase in boost pressure will more than likely be down to the increased airflow and possibly the cooler air.
To be honest DO NOT fit the boost controller without a Knocklink, You will find that you will hit boost cut just above 1 bar on the std ecu without the aid of a FCD anyway.
A lot of people ask the same question about boost pressure and many people will just whack the boost up regardless, some people will get away with it others wont.
A knocklink is a good start to raising boost.
Rob
I dont want to come across as a scaremonger like some other users but if you genuinely want to keep your engine in one peice you really should invest in something to give you a small insight into what effects the boost is having on your car, there are other things like and AFR gauge which are also reletively inexpensive compared to Head gaskets replacement
The increase in boost pressure will more than likely be down to the increased airflow and possibly the cooler air.
To be honest DO NOT fit the boost controller without a Knocklink, You will find that you will hit boost cut just above 1 bar on the std ecu without the aid of a FCD anyway.
A lot of people ask the same question about boost pressure and many people will just whack the boost up regardless, some people will get away with it others wont.
A knocklink is a good start to raising boost.
Rob
I dont want to come across as a scaremonger like some other users but if you genuinely want to keep your engine in one peice you really should invest in something to give you a small insight into what effects the boost is having on your car, there are other things like and AFR gauge which are also reletively inexpensive compared to Head gaskets replacement
#5
Rob
Thanks for that reply, I have already ordered the knocklink so should be fitted by next weekend, also picking up a HKS FCD so will have that covered also, however can't help thinking that WE ( scooby owners ) spend a lot of time talking about 'Detting' and the dangers, which are evident, without addressing the problem, which seems to me to be an ignition timing problem! Or is that a too simplistic view? AM I talking myself into a re-map or Power commander?
Cheers again
Ivan
Thanks for that reply, I have already ordered the knocklink so should be fitted by next weekend, also picking up a HKS FCD so will have that covered also, however can't help thinking that WE ( scooby owners ) spend a lot of time talking about 'Detting' and the dangers, which are evident, without addressing the problem, which seems to me to be an ignition timing problem! Or is that a too simplistic view? AM I talking myself into a re-map or Power commander?
Cheers again
Ivan
#6
Lol @ talking yourself into it
You can look at two ways
Either the ignition timing needs changing or the fuel being used is not good enough, now which change would give more power
An ECU remap may well be a good idea, not too sure abou the PFC myself, a few people are trying it at present but i personally havent seen any info posted by them yet.
As far as value goes, i dont think you can do much better than having a Scoobyecu fitted.
£60/80 for a transformation of your car
I had one fitted to my 93WRX, it was a custom Map and did cost more than a std Scoobyecu chip but nowhere near the costs of a PFC, i was also quite happy with my 419BHP produced
Rob
[Edited by tweenierob - 7/27/2003 7:46:52 PM]
[Edited by tweenierob - 7/27/2003 7:47:12 PM]
You can look at two ways
Either the ignition timing needs changing or the fuel being used is not good enough, now which change would give more power
An ECU remap may well be a good idea, not too sure abou the PFC myself, a few people are trying it at present but i personally havent seen any info posted by them yet.
As far as value goes, i dont think you can do much better than having a Scoobyecu fitted.
£60/80 for a transformation of your car
I had one fitted to my 93WRX, it was a custom Map and did cost more than a std Scoobyecu chip but nowhere near the costs of a PFC, i was also quite happy with my 419BHP produced
Rob
[Edited by tweenierob - 7/27/2003 7:46:52 PM]
[Edited by tweenierob - 7/27/2003 7:47:12 PM]
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#8
Unfortunately I no longer own the car but spec was as follows
STANDARD ENGINE
DIY FMIC using a EVO VI core
550 injectors
TD05/06 hybrid turbo Supplied by ANDY F
STI inlet manifold and inlet pipe.
Ported headers
Lateral performance clutch.
Lateral Performance Up Pipe.
Blitz Boost controller.
Breathers VTA
Fuel Reg
Cant remember anything else..
What i would do personally if i wanted 300..
Source some 440 injectors from an STI3/4 these are phase one injectors and are a direct replacement for your std 380 inj.
These will allow you a bit more head room as the 380's max out at about 295 iirc (i pushed them a bit further)
440 Inj can be bought for as little as £150 which is quite cheap considering they are direct fitment and give you more fuel to play with.
About 1.2bar boost.
You already have the main ingredients (decat/induction), the main thing is to monitor, your Knocklink will light up if you get any Det so make sure you pay attention to it, also make sure that you have good AFR readings you deffo dont want to run lean.
Rob
[Edited by tweenierob - 7/27/2003 8:17:33 PM]
STANDARD ENGINE
DIY FMIC using a EVO VI core
550 injectors
TD05/06 hybrid turbo Supplied by ANDY F
STI inlet manifold and inlet pipe.
Ported headers
Lateral performance clutch.
Lateral Performance Up Pipe.
Blitz Boost controller.
Breathers VTA
Fuel Reg
Cant remember anything else..
What i would do personally if i wanted 300..
Source some 440 injectors from an STI3/4 these are phase one injectors and are a direct replacement for your std 380 inj.
These will allow you a bit more head room as the 380's max out at about 295 iirc (i pushed them a bit further)
440 Inj can be bought for as little as £150 which is quite cheap considering they are direct fitment and give you more fuel to play with.
About 1.2bar boost.
You already have the main ingredients (decat/induction), the main thing is to monitor, your Knocklink will light up if you get any Det so make sure you pay attention to it, also make sure that you have good AFR readings you deffo dont want to run lean.
Rob
[Edited by tweenierob - 7/27/2003 8:17:33 PM]
#9
Rob
Cheers mate will look out for those injectors, I am getting a top mount intercooler conversion to fit the later twin inlets with an STI intercooler so this should help the induction run a little cooler, so looking forward to the next few weeks!!
Cheers again
Ive
Cheers mate will look out for those injectors, I am getting a top mount intercooler conversion to fit the later twin inlets with an STI intercooler so this should help the induction run a little cooler, so looking forward to the next few weeks!!
Cheers again
Ive
#12
Hi Rob
Sorry to hi jack thread,i am still running same set up as when i last saw you.I have quick question for you.I am now after upping the boost,i have uprated fuel pump and reg to fit.
What would be a better move for me now,Take car up to power eng and have car set up or go for different ecu.The ecu i got from you has a phase 1 map from power eng am i right in saying that.
Oh yeah and i did get some 4 pots in the end.
Car has run fine since you fitted dawes and ecu.
Hope you are well.
any info/help will be much appreciated
Cheers
Martyn
Sorry to hi jack thread,i am still running same set up as when i last saw you.I have quick question for you.I am now after upping the boost,i have uprated fuel pump and reg to fit.
What would be a better move for me now,Take car up to power eng and have car set up or go for different ecu.The ecu i got from you has a phase 1 map from power eng am i right in saying that.
Oh yeah and i did get some 4 pots in the end.
Car has run fine since you fitted dawes and ecu.
Hope you are well.
any info/help will be much appreciated
Cheers
Martyn
#13
Yeah deffo Ive, a Job is as hard as you want it to be
Hi Martyn, personally i would contact Pavlo or David Wallis, as you already have the board they can supply the chips, i dont really want to speak on there behalf but i am sure they can sort you out. As much as i dont publically want to slate Power engineering but they misled me and another customer very badly a couple of months back and all i see them as is con artists now.
What may cost you £120 at PE will cost you a lot less with david or Pavlo. Unfortunately they are very busy this week getting set for TOTB but i am sure one of them will sort you out when it is over.
Pretty much the same goes for you Martyn, the cheapest way of upping the fuel properly is to get hold of a set of phase one 440's, you have the pump n reg (which i forgot to add in my post above as i had them) so you can get the full potential of the 440's and boost. I should be a salesman
Stick with the dawes though mate!!! best boost control and spool up you can buy imho!!
Hi Martyn, personally i would contact Pavlo or David Wallis, as you already have the board they can supply the chips, i dont really want to speak on there behalf but i am sure they can sort you out. As much as i dont publically want to slate Power engineering but they misled me and another customer very badly a couple of months back and all i see them as is con artists now.
What may cost you £120 at PE will cost you a lot less with david or Pavlo. Unfortunately they are very busy this week getting set for TOTB but i am sure one of them will sort you out when it is over.
Pretty much the same goes for you Martyn, the cheapest way of upping the fuel properly is to get hold of a set of phase one 440's, you have the pump n reg (which i forgot to add in my post above as i had them) so you can get the full potential of the 440's and boost. I should be a salesman
Stick with the dawes though mate!!! best boost control and spool up you can buy imho!!
#15
Hi all
Just gone up to 1.02!!! Noticed it peaked quite low in the rev range, about 5000rpm, or was I just imagining it?
Obvious question now... Is it peaking at the same time as peak torque is reached? Or is the peak boost not at a fixed rpm?
Suppose it can't be can it as the turbo can spin at different speeds dependant on throttle position?!? I.E. If you 'boot' it the turbo will spool up quicker and therefore spin faster producing peak boost at a lower rpm.
Am I going round in circles on this one.
Sorry for the ramble
Ivan
Just gone up to 1.02!!! Noticed it peaked quite low in the rev range, about 5000rpm, or was I just imagining it?
Obvious question now... Is it peaking at the same time as peak torque is reached? Or is the peak boost not at a fixed rpm?
Suppose it can't be can it as the turbo can spin at different speeds dependant on throttle position?!? I.E. If you 'boot' it the turbo will spool up quicker and therefore spin faster producing peak boost at a lower rpm.
Am I going round in circles on this one.
Sorry for the ramble
Ivan
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