as long as the pin is out the engine will come of the clutch ok you dont have to lift it up

edited to say of the gearbox not the clutch

[Edited by pugoetru - 9/3/2003 9:00:03 PM]

 

front

2 1




4 3

fires 1 3 2 4
no. 3 seems to get a lot of blame

[Edited by care3 - 9/3/2003 11:15:45 PM]

 

Hi all

Well it has to come out! But what is the best way and is there a source of information to tell me how to get it out.
Can you leave the engine on the subframe and lift the car off the engine ( like you would a mini )

Any advise would be handy.

Cheers

Ive

 

The engine comes out easily.. You do not unbolt the subframe.. It is removed forwards and upwards out of the engine bay.. after the Radiator and all ancillaries are removed and/or moved out the way.. ie PS pump, Aircon compressor, alternator etc etc

 

Can be done in a couple off hours..

 

Great thanks for that, Air con pump? Is that one of the items that can be ' moved' out the way?

Ive

 

Yep..
But depending on the engine type..youe may have to remove the 8 bolts that hold the inlet manifold and move that back towards the bulkhead to get at one of the aircon pump bolts..
Once it is removed, bolt the manifold back in place cos you can use the manifold to route the rope through to lift the engine out..

 

Getting there!!!!

Ive

 

You don't need to remove the air con pump to get it out.

 

No you dont need to remove it but it needs to be "moved"..

The only things that need to be removed are.. Rad, Fans, Carbon canister, loom disconnected, Battery, Intercooler, exhaust etc etc

 

Still waiting to try and get around to this with mine too.....all of the bits and bobs are out just the lump to get out...so how many bolts are going to a be complete **** to remove ??

 

Soak them with WD40 the night before, that will help....

 

HELP!!!!!

Have followed the manual page by page, all nuts and bolts are off the bellhousing as is the starter motor..... Cannot get the engine off the gearbox!!!! I have a gap of 10mm at the top and about 3 mm down each side, however after 2 hours I've got the hump!

Any tips??

Ive

 

clutch pivot pin out?

 

Yes mate, the only thing I'm unsure of is it says after removing the pivot pin to lift the clutch fork and 'release pins' or something like that, however you cannot get the fork out of the hole and I could not find any pins.

Ive

 

how high are you lifting it up when i took mine out as soon as the mounts came out the holes it fell of the gearbox!!

 

Here's what I pulled off a thread months back on a How to remove your engine DIY :-


Too much hassle to even think about leaving the engine in the car to do the head gaskets..
Remove all fuel lines.
Heater hoses..
Downpipe..
Clutch arm..
Starter motor..
Upper gearbox tension support arm (more lift on gearbox, makes it easier to remove engine with box in place)
unplug the wiring loom (both connectors) these are situated under the washer bottle..

Two engine mount nuts (14mm)
And lift....

If the gearbox has not been split before it will be a pig to get off the engine...

However, removing the engine from a scoob has been one of the easiest i have ever done...

I definately wouldnt attempt taking the heads off with the engine still in the car, especially as i have removed the engine and seen how much easier it is..

Rob



Firstly, whilst teh engine was out i did teh parallel feed mod to the inletmanifold/fuel rails..

It took me a while to remove the engine as i went very slow and removed evrything before lifting the engine out..
I reckon i could lift it out in an hour if i needed to do it in a hurry..

If you dont have a hoist, hire one.... It cost me £30 for a weeks hire and was a godsend... it made it a lot easier to take off the headers and manouvure teh engien about when needed.

If you were pressed for time (first time) i would allow about 2hours for removal, 4 hours for heads removal, cleaning and then 2 hours for engine replacement.. possible days work to do the gaskets and have the car back on the road...



FORGOT TO ADD!!!!!!!!!!!!

You also have to move the power steering pump out of the way, DO NOT undue the pipes to the pump, just unbolt the pump and move it into the drivers side of the engine bay so that it is out of the way for the lift... easy..


Also remove the rad, just to give you extra clearance, adn so that you dont damage it..

 

I am in the middle of doing this as it appears something is wrong with one of the cylinders/piston.


Can any1 tell me the numbers of the cylinders as you'd look at the engine from the front of the car and which is the prone one for failing ?

Nearside fuel filter
Nearside radiator
Offside turbo
Offside radiator

 

i think they are numbered on the head

 

Nearside fuel filter = 4
Nearside radiator =2
Offside turbo =3
Offside radiator =1

 

Where does the engine need unbolting from other than the gearbox housing ???? where else it it attached ??? (all other bits and bobs have been removed)

 

engine mounts on crossmember

 

Thanks alot guys for your help on this forum it has all helped me whip the engine out with a friend in my lunch hour.

Now to find out who can/will weld in my Roll cage.

Cheers Chris.

 

Thx guys, so its no.4 thats let go on me then and not the dreaded no.3