getting there bit by bit, just the last few hurdles please help me...
#1
The whining noise has stopped today, now either its because I made the wife get the train (only joking dear) or its because I topped up the power steering fluid reservoir.
I have slightly over filled it I think, but I dont envisage any problems with that.
I am going to change the gearbox and rear diff oil this weekend which will hopefully make the gearchange a bit easier/smoother.
still got this niggle with the boost though and now that the rest of the car is quietening down its getting relatively worse sounding.
basically my turbo can be described as noisey/whistley, it peaks at 0.9 bar or ever so slightly above on the gauge, and then holds at either 0.85/0.9 after that depending on atmos. etc.
BUT, when its at low (0.4-0.6bar) boost it can be described as raspy/flappy/not sounding the same as at full pressure.
is this normal? I am running full decat and green cotton filter.
another thing while I am here and hopefully have your attention...
I have two noticeable cabin rattles, one is the front window (long) vent on the nearside, I know this to be the case because if I get mrs Peanuts to apply pressure while on the move it desists, the other is the rear NS door. Can these be cured by removing offending article and tightening all local screws or *do they all do that sir*?
Oh and one more thing, about my idle, you might have known that I thought I had MAF problems, well I tried a surrogate MAF and alas no joy!!
The idle will drop to 1200 revs and then slowly to about 800, but sometimes it will drop to below this and correct itself upwards, ie
3000->1200->600->800 ish or something similar.
Its never cut out on me, but my old vectra did this when approaching lights etc and used to cut out fairly often and Im keen to stop it happening again.
Sorry its long winded but I want my car to be running super coolio
Andy
I have slightly over filled it I think, but I dont envisage any problems with that.
I am going to change the gearbox and rear diff oil this weekend which will hopefully make the gearchange a bit easier/smoother.
still got this niggle with the boost though and now that the rest of the car is quietening down its getting relatively worse sounding.
basically my turbo can be described as noisey/whistley, it peaks at 0.9 bar or ever so slightly above on the gauge, and then holds at either 0.85/0.9 after that depending on atmos. etc.
BUT, when its at low (0.4-0.6bar) boost it can be described as raspy/flappy/not sounding the same as at full pressure.
is this normal? I am running full decat and green cotton filter.
another thing while I am here and hopefully have your attention...
I have two noticeable cabin rattles, one is the front window (long) vent on the nearside, I know this to be the case because if I get mrs Peanuts to apply pressure while on the move it desists, the other is the rear NS door. Can these be cured by removing offending article and tightening all local screws or *do they all do that sir*?
Oh and one more thing, about my idle, you might have known that I thought I had MAF problems, well I tried a surrogate MAF and alas no joy!!
The idle will drop to 1200 revs and then slowly to about 800, but sometimes it will drop to below this and correct itself upwards, ie
3000->1200->600->800 ish or something similar.
Its never cut out on me, but my old vectra did this when approaching lights etc and used to cut out fairly often and Im keen to stop it happening again.
Sorry its long winded but I want my car to be running super coolio
Andy
#3
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From: Lancashire & District Subaru
Maybe 1 down a few to go but the rear squeek may not be the door but the connector for the heated rear window. Its the black connector half way up the rear glass that works loose (never a good fit from new), worth a quick wiggle to see if its that.
#5
With regards to the whining noise, I had that and a top up of the reservoir sorted it out (MY00)
Regarding the rattly thing, if you fix one, you'll only notice another Learn to like the ones you've got
The Idle issue could be anything, in my case it was the idle control solenoid that was knackered/filthy. I cleaned the junk off of it and the erratic idle went away
With some folk it's the MAF, others the Lambda, others just require an ECU reset.
Good luck in your quest to get your car running Coolio
Mikey
Regarding the rattly thing, if you fix one, you'll only notice another Learn to like the ones you've got
The Idle issue could be anything, in my case it was the idle control solenoid that was knackered/filthy. I cleaned the junk off of it and the erratic idle went away
With some folk it's the MAF, others the Lambda, others just require an ECU reset.
Good luck in your quest to get your car running Coolio
Mikey
#6
Lambda sensor is next on the change list to check the problems, where to get it from though?
Idle solenoid, hhmmmm, like the sound of that, where is it located mate?
will perform ECU reset when doing gearbox oil change this weekend.....
cheers for the replies
Andy
Idle solenoid, hhmmmm, like the sound of that, where is it located mate?
will perform ECU reset when doing gearbox oil change this weekend.....
cheers for the replies
Andy
#7
The idle solenoid is located on top of the engine, infront of the intercooler dead centre (Again this is on a MY00 car, not sure what you have) It is recognisable because it will be the shiny thing If you have a dirty/used engine bay, it will generally have a brown/grey sheen about it, the idle solenoid will be shiny
It is about 2 inches long and held in place by two phillips screws. Undo these and gently remove the piston assembly.
If it's never been removed before, you will also pull out years of dust infested grease that will have caked up the seals etc.
Gently wipe/pick the grease of, carefull not to loose the little rubber washer. Re-grease lightly and re fit.
When you goto restart the car, it may take a few seconds longer to fire up, that's just the solenoid finding it's correct positon.
Hope this helps
Mikey
It is about 2 inches long and held in place by two phillips screws. Undo these and gently remove the piston assembly.
If it's never been removed before, you will also pull out years of dust infested grease that will have caked up the seals etc.
Gently wipe/pick the grease of, carefull not to loose the little rubber washer. Re-grease lightly and re fit.
When you goto restart the car, it may take a few seconds longer to fire up, that's just the solenoid finding it's correct positon.
Hope this helps
Mikey
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#10
I meant with sourcing a Lambda swap, gearbox oil change etc etc
I think I have the solenoid off now, looks like a black plastic connector at one end and a kind of black dust coated nipple at the other end, looks a bit coked up (the solenoid, not me!!)
just a wipe clean and refit then is it?
ah, sticker on it says
"A33-660 R00 UNISIA JECS"
all makes ferpect sense now
Andy
I think I have the solenoid off now, looks like a black plastic connector at one end and a kind of black dust coated nipple at the other end, looks a bit coked up (the solenoid, not me!!)
just a wipe clean and refit then is it?
ah, sticker on it says
"A33-660 R00 UNISIA JECS"
all makes ferpect sense now
Andy
#16
DnB,
you prolly heard it rattle of down the road after monday night, barely made it to fifty on the hill
why cant I have my car running bloody perfectly, no rattles, shakes, etc etc
it must be possible.....
you prolly heard it rattle of down the road after monday night, barely made it to fifty on the hill
why cant I have my car running bloody perfectly, no rattles, shakes, etc etc
it must be possible.....
#17
I'm a car hypochondriac too....
I'd like my car to be rattle free too. Should go a lond way to getting there this weekend with the new suspension bits
I'm also sure the perfect car is possible - even though the time that it remains in this state is measured in nanoseconds!
I'd like my car to be rattle free too. Should go a lond way to getting there this weekend with the new suspension bits
I'm also sure the perfect car is possible - even though the time that it remains in this state is measured in nanoseconds!
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