dawes problems
#1
the other day when fitting a dawes for the first time in me life, to my99 rb5, i had turned the boost up a certain amount, but got a funny breakdown of power. little spurts of powering down, almost sounded like the induction kit was sneezing. done it quite a lot in 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gears. turned the dawes down and tried again. still the same just maybe not as much. so i replaced the old pipes to see if it was happening then and done an ecu reset. it was fine. so on went the dawes again and the power cuts were still happening. now, i had my m8 scoty in the motor with me and he said it wasn't fuel cut(i ain't ever had it before so didn't know otherwise) and didn't know what it was. we tried an ecu reset while dawes was fitted and no help again. we contiued anyway and it gradually got better. i came to the conclusion that the ecu was simply learning how much fuel and air should be getting into the engine to make up the boost that was being produced. seemed logical and sure enough, it constantly got better. it's now running at a peak of 16.7 psi and although i know it could get turned up a bit more i don't want to because the power cut is still happening on a very rare occasion and not as ferocious as before. i'm wondering if it is fuel cut and if i should get a fcd. just maybe a different kind of fuel cut from what my m8 is used to?
any help would be greatly appreciated and i know it must be one h3ll of a boring story.
full de-cat, blitz ind kit, graeme good dv, super unleaded and millers/nf octane booster are all the upgrades
any help would be greatly appreciated and i know it must be one h3ll of a boring story.
full de-cat, blitz ind kit, graeme good dv, super unleaded and millers/nf octane booster are all the upgrades
#2
Fuel cut happens when the ECU shuts the fueling off completely as it thinks there is a problem somewhere causing the higher boost pressure.
If you were accelerting hard, and fuel cut happened, the car would stop accelerating very suddenly and you would have a total loss of power for a second or two.
Some people kid that they have nearly smashed the windscreen with their heads when they got fuel cut
Always wear your seatbelt
The problem you have is more like very slight hesitation's through the rev range when the Dawes is fitted.
The power is there, but the delivery is not a smooth as it should be.
We tried the Dawes at standardish boost pressure 13-14psi, and the hesitation wasn't there? but when we uped the boost to 15-16 psi the hesitation started again.
If you were accelerting hard, and fuel cut happened, the car would stop accelerating very suddenly and you would have a total loss of power for a second or two.
Some people kid that they have nearly smashed the windscreen with their heads when they got fuel cut
Always wear your seatbelt
The problem you have is more like very slight hesitation's through the rev range when the Dawes is fitted.
The power is there, but the delivery is not a smooth as it should be.
We tried the Dawes at standardish boost pressure 13-14psi, and the hesitation wasn't there? but when we uped the boost to 15-16 psi the hesitation started again.
#3
the other day when fitting a dawes for the first time in me life, to my99 rb5, i had turned the boost up a certain amount, but got a funny breakdown of power. little spurts of powering down, almost sounded like the induction kit was sneezing
#6
Yep agreed check it with a drill bit.
I drilled mines out to 1.5mm a couple of years ago and the hole on drb5's looks the same size.
I have since replaced mines with a standard dawes which is fitted just now, unmodified......
I drilled mines out to 1.5mm a couple of years ago and the hole on drb5's looks the same size.
I have since replaced mines with a standard dawes which is fitted just now, unmodified......
#7
Scoty - I have mine (DAWES) , but havn't fitted it yet - I was waiting on my knocklink....
I've fitted that today, but (as you can see from other post) am/was not sure it was working, as I only get a single green light. However, I'm (fairly) assured that this is OK, so long as you get a red one on tapping the sensor, which I do...
Therefore, I might fit the dawes tomorrow ( )
I'll let you know if I get any probs -
Mark
PS _ I had to drill the hole up to 1.5mm....
I've fitted that today, but (as you can see from other post) am/was not sure it was working, as I only get a single green light. However, I'm (fairly) assured that this is OK, so long as you get a red one on tapping the sensor, which I do...
Therefore, I might fit the dawes tomorrow ( )
I'll let you know if I get any probs -
Mark
PS _ I had to drill the hole up to 1.5mm....
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#8
cheers scoty for filling in for us there. away out for the evening so i was
TOOK ME A WEE WHILE TO TYPE THIS AS I'M SLIGHTLY TIPSY
PS oops. i'm not shouting any longer
TOOK ME A WEE WHILE TO TYPE THIS AS I'M SLIGHTLY TIPSY
PS oops. i'm not shouting any longer
#9
Be careful. 16.7psi is alot to run on standard ignition timing.
I was only running 15.5-16psi on my MY00 and was getting signs of det on the knocklink.
If I were you I would turn it down, get a Knocklink then see what you can turn it up to.
P.S Max Fuel-cut limit is 17.5psi
[Edited by Scott.T - 9/28/2003 9:14:55 AM]
I was only running 15.5-16psi on my MY00 and was getting signs of det on the knocklink.
If I were you I would turn it down, get a Knocklink then see what you can turn it up to.
P.S Max Fuel-cut limit is 17.5psi
[Edited by Scott.T - 9/28/2003 9:14:55 AM]
#13
dawes help reqired???
Why didn't your car get fuel cut when we took the boost over 17psi, that is what worried me m8.
I think we seen 17.8psi a couple of times and that was because one of the pipes to the actuator had split
But still no fuel cut, or at least fuel cut as I know it
[Edited by Scoty - 9/28/2003 9:33:28 AM]
Why didn't your car get fuel cut when we took the boost over 17psi, that is what worried me m8.
I think we seen 17.8psi a couple of times and that was because one of the pipes to the actuator had split
But still no fuel cut, or at least fuel cut as I know it
Documented experience on Scoobynet seems greatest with the MY99/00 UK models, and up to fuel cut (approx 17 PSI) most cars seem to cope well with fuelling and timing, although data in track conditions has not been collected. A boost gauge and air fuel ratio meter should be considered ESSENTIAL when fitting a Dawes. You need to also consider fuel cut, compressor efficiency, intercooler efficiency, charge temperatures, injector duty cycle, knock and exhaust gas temperatures. Bear in mind also that on part throttle there can be excessive boost on part throttle on cars with small turbos (MY98 on) which can affect driveability, control on bends, as well as cause lean running of your engine with potential serious conequences. Despite these issues, you will see from the threads below that many have worked ways around these limitations and are using the devices safely. Scoobynet, myself, Dawes suppliers or any of the posters in the below links/threads will not be liable for any personal injury or engine damage caused by any of your modifications.
[Edited by Scoty - 9/28/2003 9:33:28 AM]
#19
i've got secs and it has a knock correction on it. does that do the same thing?
Are you reading your boost figures off the SECS or from a dedicated "needle" boost gauge BTW?
#21
A "real" boost gauge will give you a much better idea of the way the boost builds - and is much better for showing spikes and other transient behaviour. The update rate of the SECS is slower than ideal for this application.
[Edited by greasemonkey - 9/28/2003 3:47:45 PM]
[Edited by greasemonkey - 9/28/2003 3:47:45 PM]
#23
The Knock correction it shows will also only detail upto the maximum that the ECU is mapped to correct by i.e -5 degree's (retard). I you are seeing this sort of figure then it's probably maxing out and potentially detting.
#28
Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the RB5 have the PPP ecu, so has a higher fuel cut of c.19psi. Either way something can't be right. Have you checked your MAF readings on the SECS to make sure that's reading correctly. Also when were your plugs last changed/gapped, as I suppose higher boost might be causing a misfire if the plugs are old, or the gaps too wide.
Just a few thoughts
Simon
Just a few thoughts
Simon
#29
surley the secs is just as fast as the actual ecu in the car?
The SECS is driven by the diagnostic output of the car, which samples boost every fraction of a second. The display on the SECS is a liquid crystal device which also has a relatively slow redraw rate - especially when the cabin temperature is low. Both these factors can combine to mask peaks in boost level, both on the "max memory" function and also when the display is operating in bar graph mode.
A good analog gauge by comparison is a continuous indication, rather than periodic sample, and the flicking needle gives a much clearer idea of building/spiking boost.
#30
cheers peeps. gonna get the plugs dun soon.
and the ecu isn't ppp'd in mine, cause i don't have the wr sport unforunately.
]
here was me thinking the secs was the way to go.
but the maf isn't having any problems, nnot that the secs is showing anyway. so when the plugs are done and it still happens...f@ck!!!
and the ecu isn't ppp'd in mine, cause i don't have the wr sport unforunately.
]
here was me thinking the secs was the way to go.
but the maf isn't having any problems, nnot that the secs is showing anyway. so when the plugs are done and it still happens...f@ck!!!