Help i need it badly, is my Subaru dying?
#2
You could have told us at the outset your car has an aftermarket ECU in it. Missing important info like that only tends to waste the time of people who are trying to help you.
Do you have a KnockLink installed by any chance? The combination of a Japanese market car, an aftermarket Japanese ECU and Optimax alone is just asking for trouble. Could be detting its bl**dy heads off for all we know and this may explain what you are experiencing.
Suggest you buy some proper octane booster (NF Race Formula) and see if that sorts your engine problem out. If you haven't got one, order a KnockLink and sensor today and don't boot the car until you've got it installed and booster in your tank.
Is your boost gauge reporting the same boost levels as it used to before this problem started? If not, check the pipework between the turbo outlet, intercooler and throttle body for leaks, and make sure your dump valve isn't faulty/dirty.
[Edited by greasemonkey - 10/2/2003 4:57:45 PM]
Do you have a KnockLink installed by any chance? The combination of a Japanese market car, an aftermarket Japanese ECU and Optimax alone is just asking for trouble. Could be detting its bl**dy heads off for all we know and this may explain what you are experiencing.
Suggest you buy some proper octane booster (NF Race Formula) and see if that sorts your engine problem out. If you haven't got one, order a KnockLink and sensor today and don't boot the car until you've got it installed and booster in your tank.
Is your boost gauge reporting the same boost levels as it used to before this problem started? If not, check the pipework between the turbo outlet, intercooler and throttle body for leaks, and make sure your dump valve isn't faulty/dirty.
[Edited by greasemonkey - 10/2/2003 4:57:45 PM]
#3
There is no problem if you run higher octane fuel than the car was mapped for, just look at all the UK cars mapped for 95 ron that are using SUL/Optimax.
Also without testing each tank of fuel you can't be sure that Optimax is actually 98.1 ron (it does degrade over time). Running NF will help, and the knocklink will show you if you need to add more or back off the throttle until you can.
I've just bought some NF for mine (I was using millers but it seems NF is the best) and I'll be using a quarter of a bottle to start with, then by monitoring my knocklink I'll know whether I need to use more. Which reminds me I need to get my AFR fitted with this cold weather to make sure its not running lean.
DaveW.
[Edited by DaveW - 10/4/2003 8:32:32 AM]
Also without testing each tank of fuel you can't be sure that Optimax is actually 98.1 ron (it does degrade over time). Running NF will help, and the knocklink will show you if you need to add more or back off the throttle until you can.
I've just bought some NF for mine (I was using millers but it seems NF is the best) and I'll be using a quarter of a bottle to start with, then by monitoring my knocklink I'll know whether I need to use more. Which reminds me I need to get my AFR fitted with this cold weather to make sure its not running lean.
DaveW.
[Edited by DaveW - 10/4/2003 8:32:32 AM]
#4
Ok guys i got 3 worries so i would apreciate some feedback.
1. I have an import 01 WRX Sti and have noticed recently that when i have been booting it there is some strange noise that sounds like it is coming from the fuel/turbo.
Its a bit hard to describe but it sounds like the exhaust is a little spluttery/bubbly when power is down and turbo is on.
A bit like the feeling of blowing air out of your mouth with your lips tight ish together so yer lips wobble with the air passing through.
It also sounds louder than normal when booting the car like this.
Its so hard to explain here but i hope that someone may understand me.
could it be a 100 ron fuel thing seing as its an import but i AM using optimax.
2. My second question is that there is a slight high pitch coming from the front of the wheels when i am driving and if i turn the steering wheel slightly left when driving it goes away but if i turn it right then it comes back.
Possible brake pad touching? What do you all think about this?
3. I think the clutch may be going on the car as when i rev up from standstill and let the clutch off to get a fast start there is a horible smell that comes from the engine and it smells like the clutch.
If i boot the car without starting of fast but go fast through the gears its ok but just from start really it smells if i let the clutch out fast or hold onto the clutch a bit longer. Are the Subaru's known for this and is it normal or should there be no smell whatsoever ragardless whether i drop the clutch for a fast start or not?
sometimes when trying to get up a kirb slowly and i use the clutch to get biting point and get up a kirb slowly it smells also.
Like i said not smelling all the time but a definate smell from the clutch. Could i be riding it a little and are they really sensitive?
Please help people, my head is sore as ive just had to fork out loads of money on a resparay of 2 doors an bumper and now i may have to sell my soul to get this all sorted.
Thanks for your help in this and i really would respect some advice from you and i will look forward to your help and advice as soon as possible.
Kind regards.
1. I have an import 01 WRX Sti and have noticed recently that when i have been booting it there is some strange noise that sounds like it is coming from the fuel/turbo.
Its a bit hard to describe but it sounds like the exhaust is a little spluttery/bubbly when power is down and turbo is on.
A bit like the feeling of blowing air out of your mouth with your lips tight ish together so yer lips wobble with the air passing through.
It also sounds louder than normal when booting the car like this.
Its so hard to explain here but i hope that someone may understand me.
could it be a 100 ron fuel thing seing as its an import but i AM using optimax.
2. My second question is that there is a slight high pitch coming from the front of the wheels when i am driving and if i turn the steering wheel slightly left when driving it goes away but if i turn it right then it comes back.
Possible brake pad touching? What do you all think about this?
3. I think the clutch may be going on the car as when i rev up from standstill and let the clutch off to get a fast start there is a horible smell that comes from the engine and it smells like the clutch.
If i boot the car without starting of fast but go fast through the gears its ok but just from start really it smells if i let the clutch out fast or hold onto the clutch a bit longer. Are the Subaru's known for this and is it normal or should there be no smell whatsoever ragardless whether i drop the clutch for a fast start or not?
sometimes when trying to get up a kirb slowly and i use the clutch to get biting point and get up a kirb slowly it smells also.
Like i said not smelling all the time but a definate smell from the clutch. Could i be riding it a little and are they really sensitive?
Please help people, my head is sore as ive just had to fork out loads of money on a resparay of 2 doors an bumper and now i may have to sell my soul to get this all sorted.
Thanks for your help in this and i really would respect some advice from you and i will look forward to your help and advice as soon as possible.
Kind regards.
#5
To answer queries 2 & 3.
The noise from the front drive shafts may well simply be the drive boots. Sometimes they do make a whining noise especially when dry, either see how it drives when wet or raining, or spray some wd40 onto the cv boots and see if it clears.
The clutch smell is standard. Being as manufacturers cannot use asbestos in lining materials these days, the stuff they "create" the linings from, can and does "smell" when you slip the clutch, even slightly, so dont panic, its all normal.
As for the leaking air noise, cant really think of much as yet, but will come back to this if any of my mates can help.
The noise from the front drive shafts may well simply be the drive boots. Sometimes they do make a whining noise especially when dry, either see how it drives when wet or raining, or spray some wd40 onto the cv boots and see if it clears.
The clutch smell is standard. Being as manufacturers cannot use asbestos in lining materials these days, the stuff they "create" the linings from, can and does "smell" when you slip the clutch, even slightly, so dont panic, its all normal.
As for the leaking air noise, cant really think of much as yet, but will come back to this if any of my mates can help.
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#8
for my question 1.
It is more like something is retricting the flow of either air or fuel (both)?
Because rather than getting that continous deep sound accelerating it sounds more like something is restricting the flow and it is a seperate sound to the exhaust note and i think it is coming from the front of the car.
Maybe turbo air flow?
Also there is a click i can hear (i notice it more when i drive slowy up the revs) when i get over 4000rpm.
Is this the turbo kicking in and the electronics switching something on as this what it sounds like to me.
Anyone shed any light on this on what it is exactly please?
It is more like something is retricting the flow of either air or fuel (both)?
Because rather than getting that continous deep sound accelerating it sounds more like something is restricting the flow and it is a seperate sound to the exhaust note and i think it is coming from the front of the car.
Maybe turbo air flow?
Also there is a click i can hear (i notice it more when i drive slowy up the revs) when i get over 4000rpm.
Is this the turbo kicking in and the electronics switching something on as this what it sounds like to me.
Anyone shed any light on this on what it is exactly please?
#9
The Ecu is Eifel Prova Concept of Nurburgring and quite frankly dont know what resetting will cause on it.
If i mess it up then i cannot get to where the ECU came from as this is a jap import and i dont know anyone that can support this ECU and the settings that are on it...
It was 96,000 YEN (£550) and i dont want to have to get a different one.
If i mess it up then i cannot get to where the ECU came from as this is a jap import and i dont know anyone that can support this ECU and the settings that are on it...
It was 96,000 YEN (£550) and i dont want to have to get a different one.
#10
Sorry i did not mention the ECU.
I do not have a knocklink installed nor do i have a boost gauge.
You know where the best place is to buy the BEST octane stuff (NF Race Formula)?
If i am using Optimax rated @ 98.9 then i simply need a mixture of 1.1 Octane to achieve 100 ron which is Japan fuel and i guess what my car is made for.
however i saw that NF race formula has:
(* 6 Octane Increase * Treats 60 liters)
so if i were to put this in a full tank of Optimax of 98.9 would i not be getting 104.9 Ron and would this be dangerous?
Is it dangerous to use too much octane?
I also noticed on the net that Octane levels are not what they say.
Example if it says that it raises octane by 6 points and my ron rating is 98 then i will only actually get a .6 increase and not 6 increase therefore 98.6.
Website here http://www.nitrous.co.uk
What does anyone think of buying Tourine from a chemical company in gallon cans and mixing your own in your car?
I do not have a knocklink installed nor do i have a boost gauge.
You know where the best place is to buy the BEST octane stuff (NF Race Formula)?
If i am using Optimax rated @ 98.9 then i simply need a mixture of 1.1 Octane to achieve 100 ron which is Japan fuel and i guess what my car is made for.
however i saw that NF race formula has:
(* 6 Octane Increase * Treats 60 liters)
so if i were to put this in a full tank of Optimax of 98.9 would i not be getting 104.9 Ron and would this be dangerous?
Is it dangerous to use too much octane?
I also noticed on the net that Octane levels are not what they say.
Example if it says that it raises octane by 6 points and my ron rating is 98 then i will only actually get a .6 increase and not 6 increase therefore 98.6.
Website here http://www.nitrous.co.uk
What does anyone think of buying Tourine from a chemical company in gallon cans and mixing your own in your car?
#11
I also noticed this on the NF website on direction on using the octane it says:
NF Race Formula
Race formula is the strongest NF product. NF Race Formula treats 60 litres and can give up to a 6 RON(octane) increase.
Suggested usage and dosage:
Drag Racing and Track use: Use a full bottle per tank of fuel for maximum performance and protection.
High performance vehicles: Use half a bottle per tank of fuel for every day use on high-performance vehicles (ie. BMW M3/M5/Z3/Z4/X5, Mercedes Kompressor, Subaru Turbo's, Audi S3/S4/S6/TT, Volvo T4/T5/T6, Cooper S etc.)
Ok now this may only account for using this in american/australian cars as they have a low octane level so this would be fine but my jap import is a 100ron based fuel car so will this be too much especially with optimax at 98.9.
Can anyone confirm the actual levels of Optimax ron as all it says on the UK SHELL site is over 98ron but that could mean anything?
What would a full bottle of this NF race formula actually give me with 98.9 Optimax?
I know it says up to a 6 ron increase but does this mean .6 or 6?
IE
98 + NF Race Formula 6 Octane = 104 Ron
or
98 + NF Race Formula 6 Ocatne = 98.6 Ron
If its 98.6 ( .6 increase) Ron, then i do not see the point with it.
Also if i were to go over 100ron and say i was getting 104ron somehow, would my car benefit from it performance wise (faster etc) and would it be safe?
Does anyone use NF Race Formula with an import car that needs 100ron and if so do you use the whole bottle or just half?
Remember my01 subaru WRX STi is ECU critical with 100ron and the UK spec will not be.
Cheers everyone for the feedback and i look forward to your replys...
NF Race Formula
Race formula is the strongest NF product. NF Race Formula treats 60 litres and can give up to a 6 RON(octane) increase.
Suggested usage and dosage:
Drag Racing and Track use: Use a full bottle per tank of fuel for maximum performance and protection.
High performance vehicles: Use half a bottle per tank of fuel for every day use on high-performance vehicles (ie. BMW M3/M5/Z3/Z4/X5, Mercedes Kompressor, Subaru Turbo's, Audi S3/S4/S6/TT, Volvo T4/T5/T6, Cooper S etc.)
Ok now this may only account for using this in american/australian cars as they have a low octane level so this would be fine but my jap import is a 100ron based fuel car so will this be too much especially with optimax at 98.9.
Can anyone confirm the actual levels of Optimax ron as all it says on the UK SHELL site is over 98ron but that could mean anything?
What would a full bottle of this NF race formula actually give me with 98.9 Optimax?
I know it says up to a 6 ron increase but does this mean .6 or 6?
IE
98 + NF Race Formula 6 Octane = 104 Ron
or
98 + NF Race Formula 6 Ocatne = 98.6 Ron
If its 98.6 ( .6 increase) Ron, then i do not see the point with it.
Also if i were to go over 100ron and say i was getting 104ron somehow, would my car benefit from it performance wise (faster etc) and would it be safe?
Does anyone use NF Race Formula with an import car that needs 100ron and if so do you use the whole bottle or just half?
Remember my01 subaru WRX STi is ECU critical with 100ron and the UK spec will not be.
Cheers everyone for the feedback and i look forward to your replys...
#12
Pre-fugly (don't know about them ) UKs are mapped for 98 RON, by the way...
NF will sort the possible octane problem out - don't worry about that, just forget the numbers. You can't have too many octane points!
A sucky/gurgly sound strickes me as possible air in the fuel system - something stuck in there; a squashed fuel hose; a particularly bad example of the particularly badly designed fuel regulator. If it is this, then it's nothing to with octane (although that's most certainly sill worth testing!) and could be a tricky one to trace without a fuel pressure guage, or at least an AFR guage to see if the problem is fuel-quantity related.
NF will sort the possible octane problem out - don't worry about that, just forget the numbers. You can't have too many octane points!
A sucky/gurgly sound strickes me as possible air in the fuel system - something stuck in there; a squashed fuel hose; a particularly bad example of the particularly badly designed fuel regulator. If it is this, then it's nothing to with octane (although that's most certainly sill worth testing!) and could be a tricky one to trace without a fuel pressure guage, or at least an AFR guage to see if the problem is fuel-quantity related.
#14
Hmm... when at WOT, the only noise could be the 'blowing over a bottle top' from that sort of thing? The wastegate I wouldn't have thought would flap about if there was something wrong, it would just be stuck shut or open?
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