My girly has just got me one these for my birthday Does anyone know if there are clearer instructions anywhere on the net to put these things together?

How much does it cost to get someone to do it for you?

Got a deadline of the 12 Sept for the RC GP at scoobysport.

Cheers

Dave

 

You should find it quite simple providing you read the instructions through first, Tamiya manuals are very detailed.

I would advise getting roller bearing before you start, they help to reduce friction on the main joints of the differentials and wheels. Standard fitting are nylon/friction type. To fit them afterwards is a pain because you have to go back to step 2.

Even though I cant change a spark plug without getting frustrated, I found putting mine toegether really interesting, even my wife enjoyed assembling the differentials.

On the other hand I am probally just sad.

 

I know its sad but I used to love building these things and have put together around 60 of these things, of all types. I assume if you intend to go on the 12th that you are near essex (specifically southend). If you want, I will assemble it for you, saving you the 30 quid it normally costs. E-mail me if you want.
Alternatively, you will find that Tamiya are the best instructions available and that it is actually quite simple and a lot of fun.

I would recommend you open up all the screw bags into different boxes and use the bag labels to label the boxes. This makes things much easier and enables you to check each scre against the actual size drawing on the label without tearing the bag open and dropping all the screws.

E-mail me if you prefer the first option.

 

Hey ! Don't forget me ! Since I can't go on the 12th..helping assemble someone elses may be the closest I'll get !

Would be interesting to see how different to my tamiya it is (mines about 4 yrs old now)

 

If u r going to race it invest in a ball bearing kit for it and stiffer springs plus aq dynotech motor.

ps. if u haven't any instructions i can send you some just e-mail me

mike f.

 

Don't forget the bodyshell - they can be a bit tricky, but really finish off the car if done properly. Here are some instructions I drew up for an IWOC member....

1. Wash the bodyshell in warm soapy water, rinse thoroughly and allow to air dry.
2. Apply window masks.
3. Wipe over the interior with a cloth soaked in soapy water to remove any
fingerprints from the window masking, taking care not to remove the window masks..
4. Wipe with a clean cloth soaked in clean water, and allow to air dry.

Use an aerosol can of the chosen paint. Under no circumstances use a
brush, and make sure your aerosol paint is specially made for polycarbonate bodyshells, as the paint must flex with the shell when dry.

5. Shake the can well, and spray the interior of the shell in straight, even strokes, about 30cm from the shell. Use different angles to get paint into all the nooks and crannies.
6. Give the shell a light coating, and leave to dry for at least an hour, then repeat.

Remember it is far better to give many light coats, than a couple of heavy coats, as the paint will run and ruin the finish.
If you are using metallic paint, apply many coats for a better finish - it doesn't matter if it appears slightly opaque close-up, when the shell's on the car it will look OK.
If you are using non-metallic paint and want a metallic finish, apply a few coats of the coloured paint, and then when the colour is right, apply several coats of silver paint (after the original has dried of course) for
a metallic effect.

Apply the decals with care, as they're easy to wrinkle.

Hope this helps

 

Which one do u have? The EP car or the GP car? If you have the EP car then invest in an electronic speed controller as the mechanical speed controller provided in the kit is prone to 'sticky throttle'. Also get a set of ball diffs and set of proper oil dampers for the suspension. If the chassis needs lightening then a set of FRP (or GRP) upper-deck will help (if u have the EP car that is).

 

ever under any circumstances buy a dynatech motor. These are tamiya recommended so that they make more money and are way overpriced. If I remember rightly they also use different brushes from normal motors which are harder to get hold of. You can buy yokomo modified motors which will be much faster and much cheaper and will last longer. Or spend 50 on a reedy or parma motor. Don't upgrade motor unless you have electronic speed controller as this is by far the most important upgrade.

Also don't modify any handling aspects until you have driven it on the surface that you will race on. Changing everything at once prevents you from spotting improvements, just like real cars.

 

I know nowt about these things, but I've pulled mine to bits to see what I did upgrade...

1. changed the wheel nylon bush-type bearings to ballrace ones.
2. Changed the metal gear cogs to nylon ones.
3. Fitted a yokomo motor (battery dead in about 4 minutes!)
4. Fitted a elec speed controller.

And it can really go ! Just the battery-life problem to resolve. Apparently 3000 batteries are coming out soon

 

....use SCR1700 batteries - these are racing spec, and on a tuned motor should last just over 5 minutes - the length of a race.(!)