Oil and filter
#1
Went to the car this morning and noticed a bit of oil on the floor, I checked and it would appear that there is a small hole in my filter.
The oil levels are fine so it must have happened yesterday on my way home from shopping.
My question is, seeing as I no longer have a Subaru dealer near me, Can I get a replacement filter from somewhere else( I wouldn't know because I've never touched the car before) and what is the best oil to stick in me scooby?
Cheers
The oil levels are fine so it must have happened yesterday on my way home from shopping.
My question is, seeing as I no longer have a Subaru dealer near me, Can I get a replacement filter from somewhere else( I wouldn't know because I've never touched the car before) and what is the best oil to stick in me scooby?
Cheers
#3
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#6
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Whilst on the subject, will someone who knows please confirm that you are supposed to fill up the oil filter with oil before fitting?
Im not quite sure if the bloke who told me to do this was taking the p1ss. He also told me to fill the air filter with air.
Im not quite sure if the bloke who told me to do this was taking the p1ss. He also told me to fill the air filter with air.
#7
Filling the oil filter with oil is advised, but oiling the air filter on a Scooby could cause damage to your MAF this bit I think he was talking out of his asre.
Cheers.
Ian.
[Edited by HELLOM8 - 10/22/2003 5:02:27 PM]
Cheers.
Ian.
[Edited by HELLOM8 - 10/22/2003 5:02:27 PM]
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Sorry Hellom8,
But you need to re-read the second bit, as Im sure he was taking the p1ss when he told me that bit!
But as a precaution I waved the airfilter around my head a few times to capture some air, you know, just in case.
But you need to re-read the second bit, as Im sure he was taking the p1ss when he told me that bit!
But as a precaution I waved the airfilter around my head a few times to capture some air, you know, just in case.
#10
mike,
also turn the engine over a few times after the oil change to make sure that it is circulated properly. a fair few big end failures have occured in a very short period of time after an oil change.
also turn the engine over a few times after the oil change to make sure that it is circulated properly. a fair few big end failures have occured in a very short period of time after an oil change.
#11
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I dont take credit for the procedure listed below, I copied it to a text document for referral. Someone on here posted it a while ago;
Oil Change:
1) Warm engine
2) Drain old oil from sump
3) Remove old filter
4) Pre-fill new filter with fresh oil. Fill and keep filling until it won't take anymore.
5) Apply new filter
6) Apply new washer to sump plug and tighten
7) Fill engine oil filler to mid-way between two holes on the dipstick
8) Disconnect crank sensor
9) (Preferably) remove spark plugs
10) Dry crank engine at least until oil pressure light extinguishes - ideally for 20 seconds or so more.
11) Refit spark plugs
12) Refit crank sensor plug
13) Start engine, leave to idle for a good minute or so before driving for oil pressure to stabilise
14) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
15) Go for slow drive until engine fully warmed
16) Top engine oil to upper hole
17) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
Phil
Oil Change:
1) Warm engine
2) Drain old oil from sump
3) Remove old filter
4) Pre-fill new filter with fresh oil. Fill and keep filling until it won't take anymore.
5) Apply new filter
6) Apply new washer to sump plug and tighten
7) Fill engine oil filler to mid-way between two holes on the dipstick
8) Disconnect crank sensor
9) (Preferably) remove spark plugs
10) Dry crank engine at least until oil pressure light extinguishes - ideally for 20 seconds or so more.
11) Refit spark plugs
12) Refit crank sensor plug
13) Start engine, leave to idle for a good minute or so before driving for oil pressure to stabilise
14) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
15) Go for slow drive until engine fully warmed
16) Top engine oil to upper hole
17) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
Phil
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James, the crank position sensor is very easy to find, it's underneath the alternator, immediately behind the timing marks on the cambelt cover.
Just squeeze the metal clips on the side of the connector, and pull it off the sensor socket.
BTW, for Yoza and others wondering about the need to pre-fill oil filters and so-on, you might like to give this a read.
Just squeeze the metal clips on the side of the connector, and pull it off the sensor socket.
BTW, for Yoza and others wondering about the need to pre-fill oil filters and so-on, you might like to give this a read.
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Im not quite sure if the bloke who told me to do this was taking the p1ss. He also told me to fill the air filter with air.
u must prefill the airfilter with air or it could run really rich and knacker your cat
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Well that's certainly a way to resurrect an old thread Kev!
However, I doubt anyone would be interested in your bucket of air as, quite frankly, you don't know where it's been.
I have sealed litre bottles of Prodrive spec, Banbury air here for sale at £17 a pop. It's cold, dense, has a subtle whif d'M40 about it, and is guaranteed to unleash an extra 25bhp out of your engine. It's the stuff that the SWRT themselves use for airing their filters - what more can be said???
If I put it on Ebay, you could add an extra zero to that £17 per litre, so get it now while it's cheap...
However, I doubt anyone would be interested in your bucket of air as, quite frankly, you don't know where it's been.
I have sealed litre bottles of Prodrive spec, Banbury air here for sale at £17 a pop. It's cold, dense, has a subtle whif d'M40 about it, and is guaranteed to unleash an extra 25bhp out of your engine. It's the stuff that the SWRT themselves use for airing their filters - what more can be said???
If I put it on Ebay, you could add an extra zero to that £17 per litre, so get it now while it's cheap...
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Banbury air smells of coffee, maybe thats what make prodrives bottled filter air so good.
Has anyone out there pre-soaked their filters in it?
Has anyone out there pre-soaked their filters in it?
#21
Just like to say the pre-filling the air filter with air is a load of tosh mate (I have worked in the filter industry 10 yrs and have never heard so much bollocks).
The reason to pre-fill the oil filter though is that the oil pump is very poor at pumping air (and often doesnt have enough sealability to draw the oil from the sump through the filter. Also best to apply a film of oil to the sealing gasket prior to fitting and tighten only hand tight (no tools). I have seen oil filters explode on test rigs for the slightest of dents (huge stress raisers).
Hope this helps.
The reason to pre-fill the oil filter though is that the oil pump is very poor at pumping air (and often doesnt have enough sealability to draw the oil from the sump through the filter. Also best to apply a film of oil to the sealing gasket prior to fitting and tighten only hand tight (no tools). I have seen oil filters explode on test rigs for the slightest of dents (huge stress raisers).
Hope this helps.
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