Thanks and I take on board everything you said but is there any way technically to monitor if any damage has been caused after I take off the induction kit ie....I take it off to-day and how do I know for sure that everything is ok and no damage caused..
Just to add that the HKS kit has been on it for 500 miles...

[Edited by 74f - 12/2/2003 1:43:09 PM]

 

By resetting the ECU you wipe out anyhing it has learned to compensate for problems, ie buggered MAF. Some people on here do this as 6 monthly routine. Also, can extract a couple more horsies if you're recently changed to Optimax. There are some good threads on this from memory, (explained how the ECU changed its settings until it detected knock, then backed off) and think it was the P1 in particular which it was a good thing to do. Cant remember.

When I say lumpy, I mean the idle will be erratic. When I changed my standard ECu to a Tek2.5, the car kept hunting and stalling. Before that it seemed to be running fine, but the ECU swap cancelled out the learning, and revealed the MAF fault.

Re panel filters, not all are oiled, and some are only lightly oiled. The ITG has a bad rep on here as it is quite oily, and thi ends up on your MAF. The "Green" cotton one from Xtreme scoobies / TSL etc are very good. Some info on the TSL site on power gains. It is lightly oiled I believe. The K&N one is well liked too.

MB - (must do some work...)

[Edited by Dark Blue Mark - 12/2/2003 2:36:45 PM]

 

When it was run on 97, the ECU will have adjusted to that grade of fuel. When you started using 95 you may have got the CEL check light on, as the factory sensor may have picked up knock.
I ran my MY99 on Optimax, always, and once got stuck and had to put 95 in. The CEL came on for a minute or 2, until the ECU adjusted. Problem is you will lose some power / response over a higher grade of fuel.

Best bet is to stick with a good grade of fuel, ie SUL or optimax, and reset the ECU. You might notice a difference. Again, do a search as I wouldn't just talke my opinion.

If you want to keep the HKS then as Absolute Shower says, a TEK remap would be good. But I would ditch it.

If it was me, I would:
1) Yes - Green cotton or similar
2) Fill up with good fuel
3) ECU reset and give it a good hard drive with some near red lines

SECS and KL can be done at any time, but are good initial mods.

Again, some people's opinions will be different from my conservative and safe approach so have a good read around, and there are more clued up people than me on here also

Good luck! And get a tek2 and downpipe for big grins

MB


[Edited by Dark Blue Mark - 12/2/2003 10:50:32 PM]

 

This might be a strange question but currently I have a HKS induction kit on my MY00 Uk turbo. I am getting a secs1003 but won't have it til next week.
Even though I am not experiencing any problems with the Induction kit I still want to take it off. If I take it off to-day is there any way I can find out if the Induction kit has done any damage to the MAF or otherwise?
Thanks.

 

Dont know about damage, but I had big problems with mine. New age had fault...it would sometimes run ruff, but only with the induction kit fitted. Found out it was the front O2 exhaust sensor which was replaced under warranty. But during that short time of having the kit on, I noticed the amount of very large (for induction) particles on the inside of the HKS kit - not good for injectors let alone the MAF!!

 

Thanks for that..

 

No worries...change it asap and check out the inside of the cone!

 

Wont affect the injectors , but they are known to be non maf friendy, as well as the Blitz etc... They both seem to have poor filtration (not sure what the micron size) Taking it on and off shouldn't be too much of a problem, if youre gentle with the MAF, but most of what goes through will end up inside your engine so youmight not see the damage. They are not oiled I dont think, so wont gum up tha maf from that, rather the crap from the air which its not filtering out.

Personally I wouldn't mess around with induction kits. Prefer a good panel filter.

MB

 

Don't know about technical method, but just see if the car runs smoothly from cold after...

500 miles might be okay, depending on conditions you been driving in...dusty etc would mean more crap inside the inlet...not good.

 

I dont think there a method of testing it. The CEL light wont come on until its completely dead either, and it could have been faulty long before that happens. The ECU can also mask the problem by correcting the idle etc. An ECU reset can reveal a fualt, ie,if your idle turns lumpy, then either the MAF or 02 is on its way out.

When my MAF (MY99) turned bad, it showed up on my AFR meter. The lights became realy unstable, and started fading (sign of a failing MAF) Doesn't always do that though

Someone like John Banks may know of a method to actaully test it, ie DVM.

I still say its not worth the hassle and stick with a panel. Unless you have the car mapped for the induction cone, it'll probably just lean your mixture out, sound like a tank, **** your MAF, and will fill your engine with crap

Or go for the MAF friendly K&N cone.

MB

 

"An ECU reset can reveal a fualt, ie,if your idle turns lumpy, then either the MAF or 02 is on its way out"

Do you mean by this that I should reset my ecu and by lumpy do you mean just sounding very bad when on idle?

Whats the best and safest panel filter as I hear of some of them having too much oil?
Thanks..

 

I've got a cone job on mine...not much oil on it (use K&N oil anyway), but I had TEK3 done...a must as the air flow is too different in the range for the std ECU map to handle.

 

Thanks Mark and Co,

After reading your reply on the Ecu reset I did a search on the subject and what you suggested makes alot of sense to me.
I am going to ramble on here so and if you wouldnt mind correcting me where I am going wrong as your advise is greatly appreciated...

My Impreza MY00 uk turbo has nearly 21k on the clock and was run on 97 ron up to 19k.
For the last 2k I have been using 95 ron unleaded due to lack of it in my area. Just made you aware of this as it might make a difference to your reply.
So do you suggest the following,

1. Take off the HKS Induction Kit and replace it with the standard air box.
2. Reset the ecu as per http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/ instructions.
3. Install my Knocklink which I ordered to-day.
4. Put in a green cotton panel air filter as a replacement.
5. Instal my Sec 1003 when arrives
6. Should I begin to use 97 ron unleaded instead of the 95 from here on or is the 95 sufficient.

Is this the correct procedure for me or are my instructions in the wrong order?

Thanks,
James.

 

I remember we were speaking about this before.... FYI my second MAF has just gone the other day

I should have kept my mouth shut

Dave

 

Mark,
Sound likes good advise and thanks for all your help..

RB5,
I thought you had a Knocklink and Lambalink fitted the last time we discussed this...Did you get warnings..

 

Amazinly enough it ran rich again. I must be the miracle MAF destroyer

FYI Nothing on the knocklink as is ran rich, no det

At idle Lamda link was reading a steady light about halfway up the scale, V.rich.

When i say idle it's wasn't so much an idle as a 'barely keep the engine on'

It was a lot worse this time and actually managed to cause a missfire on 2 cyliinders.

Time for APS cold air induction kit i think

 

Not what you like to see happening...maybe its time to drop kick the Induction kit into the bin...Is there not a more durable air flow metre or sensor??
I have my Knocklink, Dawes AFR and my green panel filter ordered so should have them on Friday..

[Edited by 74f - 12/3/2003 3:35:01 PM]

 

The newer version MAF is much more resilient. Got mine for under £100 from Power Engineering.

Think Subaru changed the design twice?

MB

 

Luckily enough I have a GEMS ECU coming, which is MAF free

Any yes, HKS is mid air as we speak If it does that to MAF's it can't be good for the rest of the engine either.

APS cold air induction is my next attempt, but only coz i'm getting GEMS i hear it runs lean without a re-map.

 

Mark,

Just briefly going back to the ecu reset, should I run a tank or 2 of the SUL before I do the reset?

 

As long as you have a complete tank of SUL, then go for the reset. Finish off the tank you have as best you can, then fill up with SUL. Drive home, stop the car and reset. Then drive hard for a while

If you get it pretty much empty, the mix will be fine

Enjoy!

MB (envious of non MAF GEMS people )

 

Thanks Mark,
One more question and I will leave you alone. At this stage I have my decat downpipe and panel filter to put on. Do you reccomend me doing the reset before or after putting these on or does it make a difference...

 

Worth doing afterwards I would say, but you can do one before too ou will be running slightly higher boost with that setup. Stick to the good fuel with the exhaust / filter mods too.

MB

[Edited by Dark Blue Mark - 12/4/2003 9:10:22 AM]

 

Cheers Mark for all your advise, so busy week-end ahead of me...

 

Reset ECU once filter on and full tank of SUL in - but run on SUL all the time if you can or reset ECU again when running 95 ron. I've ran on 97 instead of 98 (Opti) before and had det..but my boost is much higher than std.

Reset ECU with Secs real easy...select reset, then turn off ignition. But expect boost map to be low on power for 100 or 200 miles till ECU decides best/max boost it will run.

 

Thanks,

I will take off my Hks induction Kit first, then fit my Knocklink and lambalink. Then fit my de-cat and panel filter and use up the rest of the 95 Ron followed by full tank of SUL as Mark suggested. Finally do my ecu reset and hopefully all will be ok....

 

Just remember you can do ECU resets anytime...inc if/when you have no choice to fill up with 95 ron. But also think the boost will take time to be at absolute max each time...200 miles prob each time.