Could someone please tell me which way to turn the switch to get maximum sensitivity.

At the moment it is turned fully clockwise.
Is this correct.

Thanks
Greg

 

sorry - can't remember - Can you test it by giving it a small knock and then trying it with the stat turned the other way ? - Small spanner tapped on the sensor usually does the trick....

I was just thinking that testing it probably serves several other purposes too !

Mark

 

fully clockwise is max sensitivity

 

I think that's maximum. As Mark says, a gentle tap with something metallic should tell you...

 

Thanks lads

I only got it fitted yesterday, and when i got home it was a bit late.
I didnt notice any flashing on the way home on the twisties though.

I checked it today and made sure it was at maximum sensitivity ( i hope)

I took it for a little spin today, and managed one green flashing light.

When the misses gets home, i will try the tap on the engine block test.

Thanks

 

Just tried the tap technique, not on the sensor, but on the engine block as suggested in the supplied information....

No flashings lights
It might be that i was not tapping the engine hard enough though.
As i said earlier, i have seen one green light flash during hard acceleration in second to try it out, so i know its working.
Part of me wants to see it working, and part of me does'nt

It was fitted at scoobyclinic, so i know the job was done properly

What lights do most of you see during normal/spirited driving ?

 

You don't want to be seeing any lights flash up! .... how you described it is exactly as it should be.
I get the second green up under hard acceleration at above 5000rpm, below that the second green might flicker.
I found it took quite a hard knock around the sensor to get the indicators to light up and i know mine is working fine as i have had the big red flash up in the past and it needed some re tuning of the map to cure some slight det. around 4500rpm.


Gary

 

Yes - needs quite a tap on the sensor to get it to light all the way - and, you're right, its a two person job, as you generally cant see the lights with your head under the bonnet

Mark

 

Thanks again

Greg

 

Full clockwise is max.

Im not sure on the "tap" technique, as it depends how you do it The KL is set to look for a certain frequency (which is quite high I believe) so a clunk wont make it do anything, where a "ping" probably will

MB

 

Just to add, spanner will do it

MB

 

DBM's spot on there. It's a frequency of about 6Khz that it's looking for, so something thin and metallic would stand more of a chance than say, the head of a hammer. I think the word "knock" makes people expect det to sound like a loud thud. I know that's exactly what I thought initially...

 

Shouldn't tap the sensor. It will get damaged.

 

Yep, tap the bolt holding the sensor onto the block. AFAIK, the sensor is ceramic and you may damage it.

Stefan

 

sorry - probably didn't make it clear there - I do, of course, mean tapping the top of the mounting bolt with the spanner - (I used the T-Bar of my socket set, cos it's long enough to hold and still see my gauge through the windscreen !)

Mark

 

This is getting very technical

What "tap force" is reccomended?!

He he.

MB

 

I believe the correct force is between a dink and a smack,hope this helps!

 

Better put the sledgehammer away then

Luckily i already knew not to whack the sensor.
Its just one of those things though. You want to know that it works correctly

Thanks for all the advice.

Greg

 

"A dink and a smack"

PMSL!!

Quality!!

 

So is that a dack or a smink then...?

 

I feel a new British Standard coming on

MB

 

Extract taken from Knocklink manual...

Calibration and Testing
Connect all wires as above. Locate the sensitivity trimmer on the rear of the unit and turn fully clockwise, maximum sensitivity. Switch on the power supply, all LED's should be extinguished. Using a spanner or similar, smink the engine block adjacent to the sensor and observe the Knocklink...

 

Just thought i would check to see if i could see smink in my dictionary.

Too my surprise i found it....


smink
force required for optimum calibration of a knocklink

 

Lol, nice one.

 

Damn Auzzies. They would probably use a dead stuffed croc to beat it with

MB

 

Lol, yeah, you could imagine future Knocklinks being sold with a video of Steve Irwin and a big ******* croc, showing the correct calibration procedure...