Finally got round to fitting after much deliberation as to where things should be wired to.
As expected nothing at all until warm then the lights start pinging all over the place! They seem to generally run up the scale pulsing every second or so. Is this pulsing correct? I've never seen one before so not sure.

Its a UK96 with jr panel, ss decat centre and BB.

What should I be expecting to see in different driving conditions? Apologies up front if this is a complete biff of a question but I want to learn, honest. : )

Cheers
Ritchie.

 

AFIK its normall for the lights to go up n down,that just insicates the variation fuel/air ratio sensed by the lambda sensor.
Off boost driving would only light up the lower LED's (not sure how many) but when on full boost all LED's would be lit and the car should be running rich...

 

What i'm getting though is no more than one or two lights lit at all, as in the led pulses up the scale even at constant speed/boost. So its pulsing every second or so in a sort of "knight rider" type light show!
It pulses up to the amber area in town and then up to the green area when on boost. As I say I really don't know what I should expect to see so this could well be completely normal. I do understand the fundamentals of what its detecting and how just wanting to check its doing the right thing?

cheers
Ritchie.

 

You'll never see ALL the lights on at the same time. That's not how it works.

When the ECU is closed loop, the LEDs pulse many times a second because it's monitoring the oxygen content of the exhaust gas on each stroke of a piston (even on idle, that's approximately 13 times a second), and the ECU is using this information to adjust fuelling in an attempt to achieve a stoichiometric combustion. The LEDs will be all over the display (but probably not all the way into the rich area). If it's not pulsing that quickly, then the lambda sensor probably needs replacing.

When the ECU is open loop, the LED's should be more static, but only in the rich area. It's still monitoring in the same way as for closed loop, but this time the ECU isn't altering fuelling to achieve stoich, hense the more static activity.

As to how rich it should be under WOT conditions, there is no right or wrong. However, a knocklink would be advisable if the LEDs are less than say 0.9v, just to make sure there's no indication of det. If it's substantially lower than 0.9v under WOT, you could well have a knackered/knackering MAF sensor.

 

Thanks Judge,
The display is not pulsing that quick, not visibly anyway. It seems to be every second or so, pulsing up from the left to the right lighting them up as it goes on each pulse. Incidentally I do have a very sooty tailpipe which i'm led to believe could be Knacked lambda?

At WOT I am mostly getting the far right green lit, in fact it seems to be in the green area most of the time(still pulsing though?)

I fitted my KL at the same time and am satisfied it works as should, max sensitivity, 1 dim green at all times except above say 5500 when the 1st green brightens and occasionally the second green will light.

Cheers
Ritchie.

 

Sounds all tickety-boo to me. Not sure about the exact way the Lambdalink works. It may not be as "active" as my Autometer. Mine goes absolutely bonkers at idle/cruise, and at WOT, although in rich, still flickers extremely quickly between a couple of the rich voltage values.

That said, I too have a very sooty tail pipe (and not the annoying mute orange puppet type with Matthew Corbett's arm hanging out it's ****... )