KnockLink Activity...(or lack of !!!)
#1
KnockLink Activity...(or lack of !!!)
Just got round to fitting my knocklink today, bought from the recent group buy, and I'm a little concerned that it doesn't seem to be working correctly.
Can anyone confirm if the following activity is correct?????
When the ignition is on, but the engine is not running, the first green light is permanently lit (dimly) - the instructions state that no LEDs should be lit.
With the unit's adjuster turned fully clockwise to max. sensitivity, if i tap the engine block with a spanner - right next to the knock sensor... then only the first one or two LEDs (green) illuminate briefly. - Shouldn't all LEDs illuminate when tapping with a spanner???
When cranking the engine, occasionally the third LED (orange) will illuminate.
If the car is being driven on WOT, I can only make the first LED flash once (from being dimly lit to bright)
If this is 'normal' can anybody explain how i test to see if all the LED's actually work ( I seem to remember reading recently that someone here had a dodgy connection to one or more of the LEDs!)
I have taken the back of the unit off and checked out the PCB for any signs of dry/missing solder joints and breaks in the circuit(s), but everything seems OK.
I'm confused, please help!
&
Can anyone confirm if the following activity is correct?????
When the ignition is on, but the engine is not running, the first green light is permanently lit (dimly) - the instructions state that no LEDs should be lit.
With the unit's adjuster turned fully clockwise to max. sensitivity, if i tap the engine block with a spanner - right next to the knock sensor... then only the first one or two LEDs (green) illuminate briefly. - Shouldn't all LEDs illuminate when tapping with a spanner???
When cranking the engine, occasionally the third LED (orange) will illuminate.
If the car is being driven on WOT, I can only make the first LED flash once (from being dimly lit to bright)
If this is 'normal' can anybody explain how i test to see if all the LED's actually work ( I seem to remember reading recently that someone here had a dodgy connection to one or more of the LEDs!)
I have taken the back of the unit off and checked out the PCB for any signs of dry/missing solder joints and breaks in the circuit(s), but everything seems OK.
I'm confused, please help!
&
#2
My 1st green light is permanently lit (dim) seems to work as a power light. Are you sure your hitting the block hard enough? takes quite a hard wack to get em all on. Most of the time I dont get much activity from mine. WOT and high revs can get a green or 2 lit. Got a touch of det at about 140ish the other night (on my private test track of course) so I have seen all lights flash on briefly. Surprising how quick you can back off when you want to!
Mark
Mark
#4
The first green light is lit dimly to indicate power, I guess the earlier units didn't do this which is why it isn't mentioned in the guide.
I'd try tapping the bolt that's holding the knock sensor to the block myself (being carefull not to hit the sensor itself). The trouble with tapping the block is it's quite soft and make more of a 'thud', this isn't the sort of noise the knock link is listening for, it's looking for something much sharper.
People have reported bad solder joins on the back of the PCB, but I'm sure you'd have noticed them when inspecting it.
It's more likely that you've mounted your sensor in an inappropriate position. Mine's on the back of the block under the IC, it's a couple of inches from the starter motor which is great, as I get all the lights light up when I turn her over in the morning, which makes a fab self test.
I'd certainly expected flashes of greens when she's begin thrashed. As for reds and ambers, you're not meant to see these at all. And in my experience if you get ambers then you normally get reds too.
I'd try tapping the bolt that's holding the knock sensor to the block myself (being carefull not to hit the sensor itself). The trouble with tapping the block is it's quite soft and make more of a 'thud', this isn't the sort of noise the knock link is listening for, it's looking for something much sharper.
People have reported bad solder joins on the back of the PCB, but I'm sure you'd have noticed them when inspecting it.
It's more likely that you've mounted your sensor in an inappropriate position. Mine's on the back of the block under the IC, it's a couple of inches from the starter motor which is great, as I get all the lights light up when I turn her over in the morning, which makes a fab self test.
I'd certainly expected flashes of greens when she's begin thrashed. As for reds and ambers, you're not meant to see these at all. And in my experience if you get ambers then you normally get reds too.
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