what is DAWES
#3
a few questions.
is it easy to fit
will my car run ok with higher boost
how do i know how high the boost is
also who do i call to find out more about it
will it not blow the engine up with more boost though
is it easy to fit
will my car run ok with higher boost
how do i know how high the boost is
also who do i call to find out more about it
will it not blow the engine up with more boost though
Last edited by Dan R; 29 April 2004 at 09:25 PM.
#4
**** easy to fit if you need give me a pm before you get it and i'll take a few snaps for you
you need a boost gauge to check what psi you are running at
a knocklink and AFR are highly reccomended (to prevent bangs)
boost is a lot smoother and more agressive
you need a boost gauge to check what psi you are running at
a knocklink and AFR are highly reccomended (to prevent bangs)
boost is a lot smoother and more agressive
Last edited by scoobiestu; 29 April 2004 at 09:33 PM.
#5
http://www.gb-ent.com is where i brought mine from and gives a detailed explination of what it is etc
your car will have a fuel cut off at a certain psi so you cant accidentally go to mad on boost (like a safety limit)!
mine feels like it is putting out about an extra 30-40bhp since fitting this!
your car will have a fuel cut off at a certain psi so you cant accidentally go to mad on boost (like a safety limit)!
mine feels like it is putting out about an extra 30-40bhp since fitting this!
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#9
Originally Posted by Dan R
it is a 2000 turbo on a 2000 w reg. i thought that if you upped the boost the ecu will cut the fuel
if you get the dawes device this allows you to alter the boost to say 14.5-15psi so you dont hit the fuel cut but are running highish boost + it eliminates fuel spikes too! as in my car was spiking to 1.0 bar and dropping to 0.75 bar before fitting my dawes if i were to just up the boost it would spike say 0.3 higher than i wanted it to for a second and most likely hit the fuel cut! now with the dawes it spikes to 1.0bar and selttles to 1.0bar! meaning i can run optium boost
i'll find you a link to a fitting guide in a sec!
Last edited by scoobiestu; 29 April 2004 at 10:08 PM.
#10
http://stefanostadal.homedns.org/car_mods_engine.htm
there you go scroll to the bottom step by step guide
there you go scroll to the bottom step by step guide
#14
Standard boost pressure on your MY is ~11psi. The fuel-cut on your MY is ~17.3psi, sustained for a few seconds. If you have the standard turbo (TD04), you can raise the boost to ~15psi (running Optimax preferably, but Super Unleaded absolute minumum). With the aid of a fuel cut defender, you can raise the boost to 17psi. However, you're really on the safety borderline there without the need for a good octane booster. Also the TD04 is close to surging at low rpms, and running out of breath at high rpms at that pressure. So, probably best (and easiest) to stick to no more than 15psi.
Whatever pressure you decide to set, consider the following:-
- a Knocklink is an absolute must. And preferably fit it prior to the MBC, so you can compare pre and post mod activity.
- a boost gauge will obviously help you to set the boost pressure safely.
- an AFR gauge is useful but not essential, and could help you diagnose a faulty lambda sensor/MAF sensor...
Whatever pressure you decide to set, consider the following:-
- a Knocklink is an absolute must. And preferably fit it prior to the MBC, so you can compare pre and post mod activity.
- a boost gauge will obviously help you to set the boost pressure safely.
- an AFR gauge is useful but not essential, and could help you diagnose a faulty lambda sensor/MAF sensor...
#15
Originally Posted by scunnered
You can also buy them (not with the Dawes name of course) from most aquarium suppliers for around a fiver.
They are just a basic bleed valve-the dawes is a spring loaded valve that lets the boost build up quicker by not opening up untill the set pressure is reached,giving you a good surge of power,which no other type of bleed valve does.
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