Fuel Pump.. Advise please
#1
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Hi,
I see lots of you have aftermarket pumps fitted.
I've had a look around and can't find any guides on fitting one of these.
Having never replaced one before I'm a little concerned about leaking fuel everywhere.
Has anyone any hints, tips or guide on replacing these, or is it simple enough ??
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Thanks!!
Gutter
I see lots of you have aftermarket pumps fitted.
I've had a look around and can't find any guides on fitting one of these.
Having never replaced one before I'm a little concerned about leaking fuel everywhere.
Has anyone any hints, tips or guide on replacing these, or is it simple enough ??
![Confused](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/confused.gif)
![Confused](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/confused.gif)
Thanks!!
Gutter
#2
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1. Locate fuel pump - it's under the driver's side rear seat. If saloon, you need to take the rear seat out. If wagon, just fold it, and parcially remove the boot carpet. It's covered by kind of oval shaped plate by 4 screws.
2. Remove plate, and the foam cover.
3. Disconnect the electric connector
4. Release fuel pressure by running the engine with the (3) connector off, until it stalls.
5. Open fuel cap to make sure all pressure is relieved.
6. Disconnect negative on the battery
7. Go back to the fuel pump. Disconnect the hose, that has a white connector on, by gently pinching the catch with flathead screwdriver. Some fuel will leak out, but don't worry, and just wipe it clean. If too much comes out, you probably still had some pressure left in system
8. Disconnect the other 2 fuel hoses - they can be pretty stubborn, but be patient, and with time, they will come off
9. Remove all bolts that hold the fuel pump in place (8 x 6mm IIRC)
10.Carefully dodging the wire and connectors, slowly pull out the fuel pump bracket out of the fuel tank. It's got few bits on it, so be careful not to damage any of it.
11. When it comes out, disconnect the electric connector from the pump, and remove. there is a resister on the bracket, which goes to the pump, and to the top of the braket. Remove that too. You can remove the pump quite easily from the bracket then.
12. Utilising everything in the kit provided, just assembley in reverse order. The only thing to be careful with is that the new fuel isolater at the bottom fits snug into the L shaped braket, and that fuel filter sits right.
I fitted my new one last week It was first time for me to fit as well, and it was a doddle. Good luck
2. Remove plate, and the foam cover.
3. Disconnect the electric connector
4. Release fuel pressure by running the engine with the (3) connector off, until it stalls.
5. Open fuel cap to make sure all pressure is relieved.
6. Disconnect negative on the battery
7. Go back to the fuel pump. Disconnect the hose, that has a white connector on, by gently pinching the catch with flathead screwdriver. Some fuel will leak out, but don't worry, and just wipe it clean. If too much comes out, you probably still had some pressure left in system
8. Disconnect the other 2 fuel hoses - they can be pretty stubborn, but be patient, and with time, they will come off
9. Remove all bolts that hold the fuel pump in place (8 x 6mm IIRC)
10.Carefully dodging the wire and connectors, slowly pull out the fuel pump bracket out of the fuel tank. It's got few bits on it, so be careful not to damage any of it.
11. When it comes out, disconnect the electric connector from the pump, and remove. there is a resister on the bracket, which goes to the pump, and to the top of the braket. Remove that too. You can remove the pump quite easily from the bracket then.
12. Utilising everything in the kit provided, just assembley in reverse order. The only thing to be careful with is that the new fuel isolater at the bottom fits snug into the L shaped braket, and that fuel filter sits right.
I fitted my new one last week It was first time for me to fit as well, and it was a doddle. Good luck
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Yeah I'm replacing it with a prodrive one (I was kindly given
)
I will probably do the regulator too.
I'm unsure at the moment wether I need to.
There seems to be a lot of conflicting views on this.
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I will probably do the regulator too.
I'm unsure at the moment wether I need to.
There seems to be a lot of conflicting views on this.
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True - Seems a little odd. If the pump supplies fuel at a higher rate and the pressure regulator can cope, then I guess all is OK. But, if it can't, or its replaced with a higher spec one then how does the ECU know how much fuel is being injected ?
Also, if it can cope, then what is gained by replacing the pump - unless it couldn't keep the standard pressure - which I'd have thought it would be designed to do...
I've been trying to fathom this all out, cos I'm getting a slight leaning off at high revs/boost in upper gears, but, as you say, its all a bit vague....
Mark
Also, if it can cope, then what is gained by replacing the pump - unless it couldn't keep the standard pressure - which I'd have thought it would be designed to do...
I've been trying to fathom this all out, cos I'm getting a slight leaning off at high revs/boost in upper gears, but, as you say, its all a bit vague....
Mark
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Depends on the wiring on the particular type of fuel pump. I haven't seen the prodrive one, so can't comment, but the loom that comes with a Walboro 255l/h one has a resister built in, so it doesn't need to go back on. One end of plug into the pump, the other end to the bracket. Easy. Check the wire on your new kit.
HTH
HTH
#10
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On the uprated FPR issue, my understanding is that it's not about coping with the pressure from the fuel pump, but more being able to increase the fuel pressure into the injectors, so the injectors work at a higher rate. Higher power requires more fuel, so by increasing the pressure, you are increasing the amount of fuel going into the engine.
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But surely the ECU needs to know about that extra fuel - i.e. a remap ?
Like it would with air, except that its covered by the MAF - I assume that their is no equivalent fuel flow monitor - (hmm - does the lambda cause any adjustment?)
Like it would with air, except that its covered by the MAF - I assume that their is no equivalent fuel flow monitor - (hmm - does the lambda cause any adjustment?)
#12
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Ideally, yes. I fitted Walboro and FSE FPR over the weekend (well, FPR on Monday night in the end), and with the FPR turned up slightly (3.2 bar on idle), it's going strong. Fingers crossed, it'll stay that way until the new injectors, turbo and Power FC goes on in the next few weeks.
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I might try this then to see if I can eliminate the top end lean that my hybrid seems to have introduced... Not really got a remap planned for a while, cos I've not bought the other parts yet (turbo/injectors).
Could always turn the FPR down to standard if it starts getting fussy !
Mark
Could always turn the FPR down to standard if it starts getting fussy !
Mark
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