No special equipment required just alot of patience in getting the cam wheels in the right place and getting them to stay there . What year is it? because you can easily damage the tensioner if you compress it wrongly

 

A special spanner/clamp is needed to remove the main pulley, though you could probable make one up fi you are handy. As previously mentioned care is needed to align the pullies up I would suggest you mark the original belt with tipex on its edge just incase you get excited and pullies move or it goes "T..s Up"

Andrew

 

The tensioner will have to be compressed vertically or you will end up buying a new one (as I did) and they ain't cheap around £200 . When setting the cams you will see 2 lines on the pulley these have to be in line with each other and the there is a line on the crank pulley which lines up with a dot on the crank sensor holder .

 

Tensioners are £125 from www.camskill.com and cambelt is only £47 (Dayco belt which has timing marks on it) halfway through changing it on my classic.. but waiting on a cam seal from the dealer (hopefully tuesday) as I have an oil leak from one of them.. oh and a cam wheel from a breaker as I am a muppet and broke it..

Simon

 

pmsl.. there is not much to see.. honest..

what you want to do is go to Chris Palmers site and download the manual although not for your year (although thinking out loud I think a copy of that manual is about the net). you want the engine section from here



oops




More uploading and off to find that newer manual

Simon

 

Right manual is here it is huge although link says STi I think it covers all.. well will cover the newer tensioner.

I had to remove radiator and FMIC to allow space..









I was advised to clamp the pulleys together which as you can see was not a good move.. lol... it is only the left bank (from drivers seat, right in these pictures etc) that are tensioned on the valve springs.. I have since been advised that as the belt has timing markings on to run it around the right bank and then miss out the bottom idler nearest the left bank cams and line pulleys up with belt at the roughly 30º off timing markings on the cam cover etc.. then you turn them and tension against the valve springs and slot over idler.. pull pin out of tensioner and sorted..

Simon

 

Yep you need broadband for all that.. I am still on 56k