increasing airflow skyline style...?
#1
increasing airflow skyline style...?
Ive seen some skylines that have removed the nearside headlight to increase airflow for filters.
not too clever come MOT time methinks.
However, good to have increased air flow.
would it be a good thing to junk the fog lights (uk car - illegal anyway unless vis =<315ft) and duct cool fresh air to the airbox/filter?
to balance things up I would just remove the nearside side fog and maybe duct the air to the offside also.
a bit of mesh to keep out large items might be necessary and DISCO, better breathing!
I have removed the blanking plate on the off side of the bonnet to allow hot air to escape from the filter area/draw out hot air but am reluctant to do the same on the other side due to the battery.
anyone envisage any problems or whether I would just be wasting my time with this?
not too clever come MOT time methinks.
However, good to have increased air flow.
would it be a good thing to junk the fog lights (uk car - illegal anyway unless vis =<315ft) and duct cool fresh air to the airbox/filter?
to balance things up I would just remove the nearside side fog and maybe duct the air to the offside also.
a bit of mesh to keep out large items might be necessary and DISCO, better breathing!
I have removed the blanking plate on the off side of the bonnet to allow hot air to escape from the filter area/draw out hot air but am reluctant to do the same on the other side due to the battery.
anyone envisage any problems or whether I would just be wasting my time with this?
#2
I don't run any covers on my vents and have no problems except I stupidly mounted one of my Bosch coils under one vent so get the odd misfire in the damp and I regularly have to dry out my alarm siren
I've thought about the same thing with the ducting, I have an HKS induction kit and found that the cooling fans blow a lovely stream of hot air from the radiator directly over the filter.
Having thought about it for a while, my plan is to box the filter in, buy a second hand pair of Morretes and lose the inner light and direct that into the air box and maybe use a mini scoop on the bonnet vent for additional air.
I've thought about the same thing with the ducting, I have an HKS induction kit and found that the cooling fans blow a lovely stream of hot air from the radiator directly over the filter.
Having thought about it for a while, my plan is to box the filter in, buy a second hand pair of Morretes and lose the inner light and direct that into the air box and maybe use a mini scoop on the bonnet vent for additional air.
#3
I have no worries with removing the one blanking plate.
using the properties of suction, as air passes over the plate it will draw hot air out of the engine bay. I assume!
coupled with the fact that heat rises.
as for using the fog slots - they are no good on English roads so seems a good place to channel cold fresh air from outside.
as for morrettes, sounds cool :Cool:
using the properties of suction, as air passes over the plate it will draw hot air out of the engine bay. I assume!
coupled with the fact that heat rises.
as for using the fog slots - they are no good on English roads so seems a good place to channel cold fresh air from outside.
as for morrettes, sounds cool :Cool:
#5
nice plan, I have 99 fog covers in dgm, might be better to circular saw-cut a nice (say 4-6") hole and bond some mesh to the rear of the cover.
Theres a bit of pipework to work out but could it really be that much of a problem?
Theres a bit of pipework to work out but could it really be that much of a problem?
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#11
David,
bit hard to see in the second shot but have you directed the air in from the bonnet vent only or to include air from the fog cover also?
I have been thinking about using off side fog air for the filter, using the bonnet vent as an exhaust/exit for hot air. As well as utilising the nearside fog air for say an oil cooler. Although for a piddly little 320/300 Im now doubting using an oil cooler at all (fast road, minimal track).
bit hard to see in the second shot but have you directed the air in from the bonnet vent only or to include air from the fog cover also?
I have been thinking about using off side fog air for the filter, using the bonnet vent as an exhaust/exit for hot air. As well as utilising the nearside fog air for say an oil cooler. Although for a piddly little 320/300 Im now doubting using an oil cooler at all (fast road, minimal track).
#13
Scooby Regular
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 15,239
Likes: 1
From: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
Dave -RB245.. why?
Ill submerge my battery in a bucket of water whilst connected if people want me to show that the car will still work in the rain..
Peanuts.. behind the foglight cover is a small oil cooler which is used as a power steering cooler.
Oil Cooler is on the passenger side.
You will struggle to duct effectively from the foglight cover without cutting the front panel.
David
Ill submerge my battery in a bucket of water whilst connected if people want me to show that the car will still work in the rain..
Peanuts.. behind the foglight cover is a small oil cooler which is used as a power steering cooler.
Oil Cooler is on the passenger side.
You will struggle to duct effectively from the foglight cover without cutting the front panel.
David
#15
Originally Posted by David_Wallis
Ill submerge my battery in a bucket of water whilst connected if people want me to show that the car will still work in the rain..
isnt water a great conductor?
as for cutting the front panel, do you mean the bumper or the fog light cover?
I would have thought that I could have cut a circular saw hole in each cover say 6" dia. and fitted a bellmouth with a samco hose behind it to assist the breathing a fair amount.
I could then use fairly small lenghts of hosing to direct the air as I wanted couldnt I?
surely any extra air is better than standard?
if it really is a none starter then Ill quit now, at the very least I will have saved the weight of the lamps themselves and any wiring/connections behind them as well as potentially drawing less current when they would have been on.
#16
\m/ ^_^ \m/
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: 2010 Time Attack Club Pro Champion - Powered by ScoobyClinic
seeing as we're posting pics, mine with inner main beam headlight removed
[salesman mode]
got a spare set of those lights if anyone wants some
[/salesman mode]
[salesman mode]
got a spare set of those lights if anyone wants some
[/salesman mode]
#18
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: 2010 Time Attack Club Pro Champion - Powered by ScoobyClinic
as above, post facelift and 150 to clear they're not morettes quality BTW and i have no idea what they're like in the dark yet (shows how much i drive my car )
#20
isnt water a great conductor?
I was talking about a gallon or two down the inlet tract, ERL does the job for me fine thanks
Did porche not have this problem with the 944 turbo or something??
Dave
#22
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 701
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From: Ex Sti5 RA. Evo VI RSX with a couple of mods ;)
I'm making a similar cold air feed for my MY99.
Not sure if it has been done before......
Using a P1 drivers side fog cover. Bonded 400mm pipe in to the back of it where the little fog would have gone in. This acts as a lip so as the alu ducting can be hose clipped in place it is then fed up through the inside of the wing.
Will post some pics once it is finished.
Not sure if it has been done before......
Using a P1 drivers side fog cover. Bonded 400mm pipe in to the back of it where the little fog would have gone in. This acts as a lip so as the alu ducting can be hose clipped in place it is then fed up through the inside of the wing.
Will post some pics once it is finished.
#23
Rosswalker
I assume you mean 400 mm long, not wide.
are you using a straight length thats the diameter of the P1 light? I would think it would be easier to use some flexi ducting to get round the houses, but would this suffer from heat soak of sorts due to the thinwall construction to acheive the flexiness?
pics would be good!
Andy
I assume you mean 400 mm long, not wide.
are you using a straight length thats the diameter of the P1 light? I would think it would be easier to use some flexi ducting to get round the houses, but would this suffer from heat soak of sorts due to the thinwall construction to acheive the flexiness?
pics would be good!
Andy
#24
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/msgofast/coldair.html
not sure I like the comment about creek crossing and flood waters but other than that it looks like it could be easily fab'd up using wickes™ own brand plumbing fittings in white plastic.
total cost, about £9!!
not sure I like the comment about creek crossing and flood waters but other than that it looks like it could be easily fab'd up using wickes™ own brand plumbing fittings in white plastic.
total cost, about £9!!
#25
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Ex Sti5 RA. Evo VI RSX with a couple of mods ;)
Originally Posted by Peanuts
Rosswalker
I assume you mean 400 mm long, not wide.
are you using a straight length thats the diameter of the P1 light? I would think it would be easier to use some flexi ducting to get round the houses, but would this suffer from heat soak of sorts due to the thinwall construction to acheive the flexiness?
pics would be good!
Andy
I assume you mean 400 mm long, not wide.
are you using a straight length thats the diameter of the P1 light? I would think it would be easier to use some flexi ducting to get round the houses, but would this suffer from heat soak of sorts due to the thinwall construction to acheive the flexiness?
pics would be good!
Andy
I dont think heat soak will be an issue as the pipe runs through the inner wing and then is cable tied (there are 3 little holes surrounding the large one) to the back hole in the inner wing hopefully surrounding the induction filter with plenty of cold air. I used another small piece of 95mm pipe and some duck tape to reinforce this end of the ducting as it tends to tear easily when you put the cable ties through.
For somthing so simple I am making a pigs ear of explaining it! Will post pics tommorow.
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