clutch replacement- a big job?
#1
clutch replacement- a big job?
Will need to change the clutch on MY03WRX soon. I am wondering if its a big job and whether I would be able to do it myself. How long does it take? and roughly what does it involve?
p.s. Is there a upgrade replacement clutch (kit?) that is cheaper and better than the original parts
p.s. Is there a upgrade replacement clutch (kit?) that is cheaper and better than the original parts
#5
I got mine done at www.scoobyclinic.com last week. I went for their uprated clutch at £375 including fitting (MY96 UK). I left the car with them at 9:30 and used their courtesy car to drive into town. Had a walk around the shops and then went to the cinema. Picked the car up at 14:30! They also fitted a Fidanza 5.2KG flywheel that I had aquired for no extra charge.
I can highly recommend scoobyclinic and will definitely use them again.
I can highly recommend scoobyclinic and will definitely use them again.
#6
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From: Over 500ft/lbs of torque @ just 1.1bar
Originally Posted by theotherphil
I got mine done at www.scoobyclinic.com last week. I went for their uprated clutch at £375 including fitting (MY96 UK). I left the car with them at 9:30 and used their courtesy car to drive into town. Had a walk around the shops and then went to the cinema. Picked the car up at 14:30! They also fitted a Fidanza 5.2KG flywheel that I had aquired for no extra charge.
I can highly recommend scoobyclinic and will definitely use them again.
I can highly recommend scoobyclinic and will definitely use them again.
#7
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From: Over 500ft/lbs of torque @ just 1.1bar
Originally Posted by scoobylav
Yup its a biggy . . . . . . . engine out.
It would take about 5 hours IIRC
Subaru dealer is gonna charge you £500 ish parts and labour
It would take about 5 hours IIRC
Subaru dealer is gonna charge you £500 ish parts and labour
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#9
i was just quoted £375 for a clutch replacement up here in newcastle as well
you can leave the engine in on the classics, so i asume that you can on the bug eyes??
i know sumbody doing a group N clutch and a 8kg flywheel for £300 all inclusive tho
you can leave the engine in on the classics, so i asume that you can on the bug eyes??
i know sumbody doing a group N clutch and a 8kg flywheel for £300 all inclusive tho
#15
5 speed box is ok especially on JDM. uk and JDM six speed is another thing entirely. this box is a fookin monster. Rip yer arms out. deffo a two man job and when i got my new clutch in the mechanic took the whole engine out to fit it. as has been said before not pretty
cheers
big sinky
cheers
big sinky
#17
mine is only a 5 speed, but when i got a new clutch put in mine it was only dropping the gearbox and new clutch and lightened flywheel in its place took one man less than 2 hours for to do the job
#18
Originally Posted by stevebt
mine is only a 5 speed, but when i got a new clutch put in mine it was only dropping the gearbox and new clutch and lightened flywheel in its place took one man less than 2 hours for to do the job
I have an AP organic clutch to fit after my holls in a couple of weeks time. I have done the job on Mk1 and MK2 escorts and an E30 BMW but was not looking forward to doing this on the scoob. I heard you have to take the struts off to take the drivershafts out? (mine is a UK classic, same as a MY03 WRX I would have thought tho?)
I'll keep an eye on this thread and see how you get on. Glad to hear you are takling the job yourself Sapkan, most people with scoobs seem to get garages to do all the work.
#19
Ive done my own classic and its quite easy tbh ..definately not an engine out.......although ive done 2 diffrent classics now and both needed a flywheel.Ohh and you just split the bottom ball joints on struts and then just pull back the driveshafts and leave em in still in the hub.
Last edited by mr smash; 01 August 2004 at 01:33 AM.
#20
Originally Posted by mr smash
Ive done my own classic and its quite easy tbh ..definately not an engine out.......although ive done 2 diffrent classics now and both needed a flywheel.Ohh and you just split the bottom ball joints on struts and then just pull back the driveshafts and leave em in still in the hub.
So what was up with the flywheels then? Cracked?
I have a standard one in mine and was going to get it skimmed and lightened while it was off.
At the mo I am getting bad clutch judder when pulling off if it is damp or cold and are hoping the new clutch plate will rectify this.
Sorry if I am going slightly off topic!
#21
PMSL at Diesel.
Did mine back in January in a classic . Gearbox is Heavyyyyyyyyy. Easily as heavy as Truck gearbox. If you can drop that on your shoulder no way am i going to upset you, as you must be well Hard. Hardest problem of getting gearbox out is splitting it from Engine . On mine it was a hell of a Job as it had corroded onto the Studs in the bell housing.
SG
Did mine back in January in a classic . Gearbox is Heavyyyyyyyyy. Easily as heavy as Truck gearbox. If you can drop that on your shoulder no way am i going to upset you, as you must be well Hard. Hardest problem of getting gearbox out is splitting it from Engine . On mine it was a hell of a Job as it had corroded onto the Studs in the bell housing.
SG
#25
Originally Posted by Diesel
This was my point of reference too I had the gearbox on my shoulder! Guess these Scooby ones are made of lead
D
D
#26
Set out to remove my box from a Type R this morning and won in the end.
No need to take the engine out...as long as there are 2 of you doing it.
Managed to pop the driveshafts out from the inner ends without touching the hubs....even left the wheels on! You can spring them back just enough and by pulling the box in the opposite direction...they pop out.
unbolted propshaft from rear diff and caressed it out after removing centre bearing mount.
remove both crossmembers from under the box and 4 bolts and 2 nuts from bell housing.
I found it easier to then remove the 2 bottom studs using a couple of locknuts which left the box only attached via the dowels, at this point... I felt I could have put the whole thing back together again and left out the main bolts and the box would still be permenantly attached!!!!!!!!
THE DAMN THING WAS BONDED ON SO HARD!!!!
This was the patience tester,,,,but in the end after much WD40 and gentle persuassion by prising it apart,,, the thing came unstuck.
Is it a hard job??....yes....but not impossible with acsess to the right tools and some help....and boy is it a learning process!
Im no expert...but would be glad to talk anyone through the process.
No need to take the engine out...as long as there are 2 of you doing it.
Managed to pop the driveshafts out from the inner ends without touching the hubs....even left the wheels on! You can spring them back just enough and by pulling the box in the opposite direction...they pop out.
unbolted propshaft from rear diff and caressed it out after removing centre bearing mount.
remove both crossmembers from under the box and 4 bolts and 2 nuts from bell housing.
I found it easier to then remove the 2 bottom studs using a couple of locknuts which left the box only attached via the dowels, at this point... I felt I could have put the whole thing back together again and left out the main bolts and the box would still be permenantly attached!!!!!!!!
THE DAMN THING WAS BONDED ON SO HARD!!!!
This was the patience tester,,,,but in the end after much WD40 and gentle persuassion by prising it apart,,, the thing came unstuck.
Is it a hard job??....yes....but not impossible with acsess to the right tools and some help....and boy is it a learning process!
Im no expert...but would be glad to talk anyone through the process.
#27
Originally Posted by BlkKnight
it's an engine out job as far as i know - not very pretty.
My brother made the mistake of fitting a racing clutch (but not the flywheel) and his scoob now judders when warm when moving off
My brother made the mistake of fitting a racing clutch (but not the flywheel) and his scoob now judders when warm when moving off
Cheers
M
#28
In my case no.
I replaced my original Sti clutch for a new AP Organic on the same unfaced flywheel and it is super smooth. (as it was before the change).
If someone fits a real racing clutch, ie a paddle type without a sprung centre then all manner of snatching/juddering/gearbox failure will occure if driven as a road car.
911
I replaced my original Sti clutch for a new AP Organic on the same unfaced flywheel and it is super smooth. (as it was before the change).
If someone fits a real racing clutch, ie a paddle type without a sprung centre then all manner of snatching/juddering/gearbox failure will occure if driven as a road car.
911
#29
Originally Posted by SCOOBNOV
I found it easier to then remove the 2 bottom studs using a couple of locknuts which left the box only attached via the dowels, at this point... I felt I could have put the whole thing back together again and left out the main bolts and the box would still be permenantly attached!!!!!!!!
THE DAMN THING WAS BONDED ON SO HARD!!!!
This was the patience tester,,,,but in the end after much WD40 and gentle persuassion by prising it apart,,, the thing came unstuck.
THE DAMN THING WAS BONDED ON SO HARD!!!!
This was the patience tester,,,,but in the end after much WD40 and gentle persuassion by prising it apart,,, the thing came unstuck.
I have put gallons of penetrating fluid between the two and tried levering the box away from the engine using a crowbar and still can't get them apart.
Is there a good method I can use to separate them, I could do with a bit of help on this please.