fly wheel skimming
#3
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I had my flywheel skimmed only because I was upgrading the clutch from 225mm dia to 230mm dia type, otherwise I would have not bothered.
I just wanted to make sure the new clutch had a clean flat/level surface to work on.
I just wanted to make sure the new clutch had a clean flat/level surface to work on.
#4
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It will depend on the condition of the flywheel when the clutch is removed.
I couldn't get my old flywheel skimmed as there was alot of burn marks on the face, and there was some very very deep cracks in the surface aswell.
I had to replace it.
I couldn't get my old flywheel skimmed as there was alot of burn marks on the face, and there was some very very deep cracks in the surface aswell.
I had to replace it.
#6
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get it done. The last thing you want is awful clutch judder.
Originally Posted by scooby_pimp
Is this really necessary when changing a clutch ?
What are the cons of not doing it ?
Thanks
PIMP
What are the cons of not doing it ?
Thanks
PIMP
#7
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Replaced my clutch at about 85K from original to Borg & Beck. Got crank oil seal just in case it needed it and expected to have to skim flywheel.
Didn't have to touch the oil seal (don't if you don't have too) and although flywheel had slight wear - detectable only with finger nail, I didn't skim it.
Original clutch juddered very baddly - new Borg & Beck almost never. (I understand they are only rated to 280BHP though, so it your planning big mods this could be a weak point. Plenty good enough for most though)
Didn't have to touch the oil seal (don't if you don't have too) and although flywheel had slight wear - detectable only with finger nail, I didn't skim it.
Original clutch juddered very baddly - new Borg & Beck almost never. (I understand they are only rated to 280BHP though, so it your planning big mods this could be a weak point. Plenty good enough for most though)
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