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Car not happy at all HELP!!

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Old 07 August 2005, 07:47 PM
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scoootie5
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Default Car not happy at all HELP!!

Have been trying all weekend to sort out this problem and getting no-where.

Impreza MY94 WRX RA - With Link ECU, Walbro fuel pump, FSE FPR

It will not idle or drive. When I start the car the revs pick up and it will be ok but does get the odd stutter like a misfire.
When it starts to get warm and the rpm drops it cannot hold an idle. Again as if there is a misfire. When it is finally warm enough for the rpm to drop to 850 it cannot idle and stalls. Even when I restart it.

When driving yesterday it was kangarooing down the road misfiring and would not idle I had to try and keep the revs up but sometimes this was not enough and no matter how hard I pressed the throttle it died.

Wierd thing is when I pulled out the spark plugs 3 were white and 1 looked new. Like it was running lean?

Can't be MAF sensor becuase I do not have one (link ecu)

Today I have changed:-
Spark Plugs
Coilpacks
Checked the fuel pump wasn't blocked and the fuel pressure was ok (3bar vac connected), even syphoned some fuel out to see if there was any water or such like.
Swapped over the fuel pump relay (pain in the bum - what a place to put it.)
Checked all hoses and pipework for leaks and disconnection

I am completely stuck and have no idea where to go from here, other than buying sensors/fuel pump/FPR and replacing them. If you have suggestions please let me know.


Thanks
Scott
Old 08 August 2005, 09:25 AM
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Tim-H
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Please check this before you alter it , as if I am wrong it may result in a blown engine !!!!!!
If I remember correctly fuel pressure should be done with vac DISconected, doing it connected (if it was originally mapped with dis) would make it run rich
Have a good on
Tim
Old 08 August 2005, 08:02 PM
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scoootie5
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I did check today with it disconnected and it reads 3.5bar.
I did try and lower it to 3bar disconnected but this made no difference. And have put it back to 3.5 bar

Has anyone had any trouble with the Optimax from the Bishop's Stortford Garage??
Maybe a dodgy tank of fuel?? I do not use the car very much any more and only fill every few weeks. And only fill half way because of it sitting around.

Scott
Old 08 August 2005, 09:12 PM
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Bob Rawle
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Water temp sensor could be fubared, if you have the tuning module scroll to that screen and look at it as it warms up to see what its reading. or use laptop/serial link if you have that.

bob
Old 08 August 2005, 10:56 PM
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scoootie5
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Will give it a go tomorrow.

Thanks
Scott
Old 11 August 2005, 10:56 PM
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scoootie5
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Have now replaced the Temp sender and it has not made any difference.
Have also drained the tank of fuel and put a fresh £20 in there but it isn't that either.

Difficult to explain what the engine is doing but will try to clarify it.

When you first start the car the revs ar about 2000rpm and is ok'ish but stutters.
Then as it warms up and the choke closes it gets worse. The engine stutters/misfires/pauses for a fraction of a second causing the car to drop the rpm to about 300rpm and struggles to recover. and this goes on and on.

Wierd thing is sometimes it will idle fine for a few seconds before doing it again.

Any other ideas??

Cheers
Scott
Old 12 August 2005, 08:16 AM
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Swift Cee
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Have you tried running diagnostics to get any error codes?
Old 12 August 2005, 06:49 PM
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scoootie5
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Is there a way I can run diagnostics on a Link ECU?

Thought you could only do this on a factory ecu.

Scott
Old 12 August 2005, 10:19 PM
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Beastie
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Possibly Lamda is fubarred? Can you see the readings from it on the link?
Also maybe cam position sensor?
Old 12 August 2005, 11:35 PM
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scoootie5
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Do not use the Lambda on the Link. Runs from settings.

Have even unplugged the Lambda and still makes no difference at all.

About 2 months ago when this problem started I replaced the Lambda because it was faulty then. Showed red on the Link and did not move. So I have had the problem for a while but only started intermittantly, and thought I had solved it.

Scott
Old 12 August 2005, 11:37 PM
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scoootie5
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I know it could be the Cam position sensor but they are £140 and that is expensive for a sensor that could not be causing the problem.

Is there any way of testing them???

Scott
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