Boost question (Restrictor size)
#1
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MY00 UK, Decatted, panel filter, TEK3
OK within the boost plumbing, there is a little brass restrictor. It is essentially a solid brass pellet with a small hole drilled through the centre of it.
When the car left the factory the size of that hole is 1.2mm.
When the car had been re mapped, a 1.1mm restrictor was used. This made the car absolutley fly (17.5psi) however the boost control was pants. Especially in 4th & 5th. I had it checked over as it was suggested maybe the duty cycles needed a tweek, this was done and the problem got less noticeable but still not right. I ended up putting a 1.2mm restrictor back in and now the delivery is smooth as a babys **** but peaks at about 13psi![Frown](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
I haven't the time to spend days at the garage getting it fine tuned and the car is a daily driver so I can't leave it with them.
Would I just be better sticking the DAWES on and being done with it?
Would that mean re-tuning the TEK map?
Could the TEK be re-mapped with the 1.2mm restrictor in it?
It's just that every now and again, i think about the cost of the re map and it kinda grinds a little to know that it's probably no quicker than it was pre TEK.
***NOT A DIG AT THE TEK TUNER OR GARAGE***
OK within the boost plumbing, there is a little brass restrictor. It is essentially a solid brass pellet with a small hole drilled through the centre of it.
When the car left the factory the size of that hole is 1.2mm.
When the car had been re mapped, a 1.1mm restrictor was used. This made the car absolutley fly (17.5psi) however the boost control was pants. Especially in 4th & 5th. I had it checked over as it was suggested maybe the duty cycles needed a tweek, this was done and the problem got less noticeable but still not right. I ended up putting a 1.2mm restrictor back in and now the delivery is smooth as a babys **** but peaks at about 13psi
![Frown](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
I haven't the time to spend days at the garage getting it fine tuned and the car is a daily driver so I can't leave it with them.
Would I just be better sticking the DAWES on and being done with it?
Would that mean re-tuning the TEK map?
Could the TEK be re-mapped with the 1.2mm restrictor in it?
It's just that every now and again, i think about the cost of the re map and it kinda grinds a little to know that it's probably no quicker than it was pre TEK.
***NOT A DIG AT THE TEK TUNER OR GARAGE***
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Sorry, sort of related but not ![Wink](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/wink.gif)
If you have a three port boost solenoid is there no need for the restrictor then?
I guess that's one way forward, but you would have to get the map sorted at the same time as fitting the three port as the boost control is signifcantly different.
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If you have a three port boost solenoid is there no need for the restrictor then?
I guess that's one way forward, but you would have to get the map sorted at the same time as fitting the three port as the boost control is signifcantly different.
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Good point
I don't have a 3 port, nor in reality will i ever get one, the idea is to rectify without spending even more.
*Goes off to see if someone has one in the back of their garage not doing anything
*
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*Goes off to see if someone has one in the back of their garage not doing anything
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#5
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I have a similar problem and I have just fiddled with the restrictor.
It's mainly down to the 2 port solenoid not being particularly good at controlling boost.
I've got mine kinda OK with a restrictor around 1.05mm (1.1mm drops too much boost).
You have several options :
1. Dawes (£20)
2. 3-Port and remap (£150 for new 3-port, £250 for remap). I think Bob Rawle does this as a matter of course.
3. Apexi AVC-R, which comes with it's own duty solenoid (£225 from Ebay)
It's mainly down to the 2 port solenoid not being particularly good at controlling boost.
I've got mine kinda OK with a restrictor around 1.05mm (1.1mm drops too much boost).
You have several options :
1. Dawes (£20)
2. 3-Port and remap (£150 for new 3-port, £250 for remap). I think Bob Rawle does this as a matter of course.
3. Apexi AVC-R, which comes with it's own duty solenoid (£225 from Ebay)
#6
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Option 4
Tension up the wastegate actuator a few turns (£0)
However it should be possible to have the ECU set up with stable boost control on the 1.1mm restrictor. Later cars use a 1.0mm restrictor on the same turbo.
Andy
Tension up the wastegate actuator a few turns (£0)
However it should be possible to have the ECU set up with stable boost control on the 1.1mm restrictor. Later cars use a 1.0mm restrictor on the same turbo.
Andy
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Is this the little brass restrictor that you would find between the d/v and the boost gauge in the vacume hoses??
Another question.. what would happen if you removed it completly?
Cooklie
Another question.. what would happen if you removed it completly?
Cooklie
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I had problems with boost creep and spiking with a tek2 exchange ecu.I had a dawes device before i had ecu but took it of when i got ecu done and damaged the pipe with restrictor in i got another pipe with restrictor in but when i had ecu done after month i started get this eratic boost it would go to 20psi drop to 15 go up to 22psi and just last month i got the pipe from subaru with 1.2 restrictor and the boost creep and spiking stoped.I know have tek3 remap done to the car this was done yesterday by Andy f at awd in Scotland what a difference it makes over the tek2 the cars boost pressure goes to 20 psi up to 5k revs my boost gauge reads two psi out that what Andy told me so its 18psi my car is My2000 uk turbo hs decat jr panel filter and i have'nt a clue what bhp it has never been on rollers.I have had car from new
#9
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Originally Posted by Andy.F
Option 4
Tension up the wastegate actuator a few turns (£0)
However it should be possible to have the ECU set up with stable boost control on the 1.1mm restrictor. Later cars use a 1.0mm restrictor on the same turbo.
Andy
Tension up the wastegate actuator a few turns (£0)
However it should be possible to have the ECU set up with stable boost control on the 1.1mm restrictor. Later cars use a 1.0mm restrictor on the same turbo.
Andy
The old TD04 was much more compliant although it could hold the boost at high revs like the VF28, which may explain it
#10
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Originally Posted by cookstar
Is this the little brass restrictor that you would find between the d/v and the boost gauge in the vacume hoses??
Another question.. what would happen if you removed it completly?
Cooklie![Smile](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Another question.. what would happen if you removed it completly?
Cooklie
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92 - 96 the restrictor is in the duty solenoid return hose. Remove it and boost will spike and maybe hit fuel-cut.
97> the restrictor is between the turbo outlet nipple and the T-piece. Remove it and boost will drop dramatically.
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