When driving my car normally i have engine running temp of 85-89 degrees, then when stopped ie at junctions, traffic lights and at my house the temps would go up to 91, fan would come on, cool down to 89 and then go off, which i think is normal.

Have noticed now that when running the car temp are going up from 85-94 degrees, but when car is idling temps go up to 94 degrees, fan comes on but doesnt cool down at all, so fan never goes off, any ideas?

 

Partially blocked radiator / core , not dispersing the heat as well as it should do during standstill.
I take it the coolant level is fine ???

 

as said plus duff temp gauge, thermostat, incorrect mixture, dead bird in grille

 

lol at the dead bird in grille, level is fine, maybe should bleed rad then as have an apexi ECU and this is whats telling me the temp, could it still be thermostat even though ecu is telling me its high?

 

Is the Water temp fan cut in level set to low on the Apexi, therefor when the fan does kick in & try to cool the water, It cannot get it below the set threshold, So stays on !!!
Just an Idea ..

 

dunno mate i didnt set it up, how can i check mines a 1995 does it have this option?

 

You haven't had anti-freeze added at recent service??

 

what difference would that make, dont think its that

 

Might have slightly different temp characteristics (but I am not on firm ground here though )

 

deleted double post - doh

 

it might but doubt that much of a difference, anyway was ok for ages after its last service, has only happened recently

think it must be a block as heater isnt blowing out just as hard as used to on full pelt, is as warm i think though

 

where is the bleed screw on a 1995 Rad as need to check if there is an airlock first off?

 

Having the A/C switched on will make the radiator less efficient regardless if your heating or cooling (and fans will usually stay on).

Having the heater set to hot and blower set on high can reduce running temperatures as well.

 

a/c is off and usually run heater on full to reduce temps but to no avail.

do you know where the bleed screw is on rad?

 

There is a setting on the Pfc, for fan temp cut in, I don't know where it is right now as im no where near my car, but will look.
Probably the most likely culprit is the Fan switch / sender not closing the circuit when the temp drops.
Dean

 

There isn't a bleed screw on a '95 IIRC

 

if there is no bleed screw, how can you bleed the system and if not ECU settings what other options do i have to bring the temps down to what they used to be?

 

The Coolant filler cap

Leave it off and run the engine to operating temp or at least until the thermostat opens (top rad hose becomes hot).

However I can't see how air can get into the system unless you have a leak, or the coolant was recently changed. Air eventually finds its way to the top of the header tank under gravity anyway (highest point of the cooling system) providing there is no air lock (and you would have known by now if there was).