As the title say's At What Point In Modding Is A Re-Map Required ?

I have been considering getting a TEK3 sometime next year and up until then I thought I would keep my eyes open for a few things along the way.
The main question would be about a replacement down pipe, are you able to put this on without re-mapping or do you really need to map after fitting ?

The car at the moment has no engine mods, only the exhaust has been modded with a Magnex centre and a Ninja BB.

I read all the time about re-mapping but I'm unsure about how far you can take things before one becomes essential ?
The only other plan in the short term will be a panel filter.

Cheers
Simon

 

swapping turbos/injectors seem to be, depending on the car you have. Fully decatting a newer car i would always suggest remapping, but although non essential you will gain far far more than just whipping the cats off.

However if you change say a TD04 for a TD05 and dont change the map, the fuelling will be all over the shop because of the differences in the charachteristics of the turbo.

Same with injectors i would guess...if you swap a set of 380s running at 80% duty, for a set of 440 without telling the ecu, would it not try and ram the injectors with 80% of 440 too?

 

Thanks for that Neil

I should have stated I'm running a MY00 Classic Turbo.

I assume I'm running the later ECU but have not pulled the carpet back to check as yet, so I'm not sure how much it can learn and adjust on it's own before it needs a mappers touch.

Yes I agree about not getting the full potential out of the down pipe without re-mapping and that will be on the cards but I just want to try to establish if I can do this on the way without causing any harm or do I end up having to have it all done at once instead of breaking it down a little.

The inner workings of the injectors and turbo are deeper than I have looked at this moment in time... I'm relatively an under the bonnet novice so to speak so I have some studying to do by the look of things.

Simon

 

if its just the exhaust and filter then id suggest that its 99 times out of 100 ok. When you say its got a later ECU on it do you mean a bugeye ECU? or other?

Id probably suggest your fine to run it as is, or maybe to stop any boost spiking use a dawes device to limit the boost to 1 bar max. That will actually give you a little more power anyway as the car should only boost to 0.95bar as standard

 

Thanks Neil,

I'm not 100% sure on the model ECU but either 801/802 springs to mind.
This one I believe is used on the 99/00 classics.... I don't know if this is the same as the early bugeyes or not.

I'll do a search on boost spiking and look into that in a little more depth.

 

thats cool, the only reason you may get boost spiking is because the ecu expects a certain amount of "back pressure" which the cats provide. Essentially working like a lid, making sure that the turbo doesnt over spin too fast creating a small spike of "overboost", The dawes device takes boost control away from the ECU so that you can set it to the desired level (although it CANNOT change fuelling) so hence why i suggested a limit of 1 bar only.

This will also assist your spool up low down.

 

MY99/00 ECUs varied between AE800, AE801 and AE802. The 802 runs the richest IIRC. When I changed mine from a AE802 to a AE800 it made a nice difference at the top.

Personally I would...fully de-cat, STi panel filter, boost gauge, knocklink and run a dawes. Also change the ECU for a AE800/1 if you have a AE802.

All makes for a big difference over std. I would hold out on a remap until you decide you want to change the turbo etc.

Bob

 

Neil A brilliant translation... I see what your talking about now in regards spiking, one question.... is the dawes device mechanical or purely an electrial item ?

Bob that's interesting that's a lot of modding to carry out before a potential re-map... I've got a boost gauge in there already it just gives you peace of mind when you check now and then to see where she peaks to.

I'll have to pull the carpet back and have a look to see what ECU is on the car... just out of curiousity I'm assuming it's a simple "plug and play" if you do change them over.

 

its 100% manual, its basically a spring and a ball bearing in a tube...which you screw tighter for higher boost (so the springs already compressed and therefore harder to compress further) or loosen it if you want lower boost....

the best trick is to use one when you take it for a service....wind the boost down to about 0.5bar and see if they say its not very powerful good check to see if theyve tried ragging it

 

Yes, simple plug and play:

http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=470026


Bob

 

Now that sounds like the voice of experiance talking if ever I have heard it

A spring and a ball bearing..... how simple is that

 

That's not fair Bob and that's an interesting link to
I'll be out with the torch later I can see it now.

Is that Ian's old car your running there ?

 

here you go fella....

http://www.dawesdevices.com/basic.html



Thats all it is

 

That can't be right it's to cheap

That's got to be worth doing not only for the price but for the job it does as well.... I'm sat here in work potentially spending more than I'm earning yet again today One for the list me thinks

 

Ian old car? Nope.

Fair?

 

You earn less than $25? you poor man!

 

Bob I've just realised it's another Bob that I was thinking about as your not running a 2.5


Neil not just the $25 it's everything else that follows

 

Buy one mod each day and by the end of the week it'll be complete

 

That's one way of controlling spending !! not sure how long I could make that work for though lol

Before I go trawling on the net is there a supplier for the Dawes Device in this country ? are they readily available ?

Simon

 

www.j-w-racing.com

 

Exhaust and filter only i'd say. Anymore than that and a) you're endangering your engine and more importantly b) a remap is the next economical step. A remap by someone who knows their stuff will probably make more difference than anything else

 

Thanks tath.... a re-map will be on the cards but I'm just looking into what I can do leading up to it to spread the work and cost over time.... if it turns out that I need to gather a few things and leave them in the garage until ready I will but I'm curious to see how far it is possible to go in the mean time.

Simon