Have got my uprated engine mounts and just returned from a quick inspection. It looks almost impossible without removing something big eg the gearbox. Should I put them on the shelf until I need to do the clutch or is there a secret method of doing this . Thanks in advance.

 

id like to know this too, where did you get your mounts from? and how much?

 

Hope there is a way. Waiting for mine from Lateral.
Cost is £171 from Lateral.

I think if you jack the engine up after removing the nuts all will come free.
Box is simple as you can remove the trans Xmember.

I have the TMIC off and the d/pipe off too at the moment, so should be a snip.

Graham.

 

Got them from Lateral Performance Excellent sevice £172 Delivered superfast service.
TV was the usual rubbish so I got stuck in last night and managed to do the LHS one. Exhaust off, front driveshafts off, Intercooler and tie rod off, Airfilter box off and loosened the rear gearbox mounting and the gear shift rear support. Lifted the engine on the sump carefully and managed to squeese the old mount out but only just, will try the RHS tonight when the kids are in bed, don't want them to hear me swearing !!!!!

 

Another vote for mark!! top service!!!!

No need for half of that stuff off!!!

Remove top mount, remove engine stay bar.
Remove engine mount bolts.

raise engine making sure you use a block of wood under the sump between the jack and the sump.

Raise the engine enough so that the clutch slave cylinder doesnt foul the body.

Undo each engine mount using a ratchet spanner (14mm) and withdraw.

The gearbox one is very easy!!!!

Support the back of the gearbox using a jack, remove support, change, then replace mount....

Rob

 

Yes it can be done.

Remove the pitch stop mount from the bulk head to the gearbox.
Remove the 2 nuts that the hold the engine mounts to subframe.
If you have an engine hoist use this to lift the engine as high as it will go (CARE MUST BE TAKEN HERE not to nip or jam anything)
or you can use a trolly jack to lift the engine (again be very careful try avoid lifting on the sump)
Remove and replace one mount at a time. There are 2 bolts (14mm) that hold each mount to the engine.(I find using a 3/8 ratchet and flexible joint before the socket helps. A flexible head ratchet spanner is also useful.)

If you are lucky, you may find it easier to get to the rear bolts of the engine mount from above the engine.

You may also find it easier to take the old mounts out, and put the new ones in rough situ from above the engine, it really depends on how much you can lift the engine up by.

You should not have to remove anything else. Done it about 5 times now.

Steven

 

LOL, rob beat me to it

 

You know what I will be doing on sunday...the coldest day of 2005 probably.
Graham

 

Well, have managed to get them in and everythimg back in its place, didn't need any plasters !!!, The RHS is a bit more of a tight squeeze due to the covering around the exhaust pipes, but for a first time I am chuffed and nothing broke. The ones from Lateral come with top plates which are plain whereas the ones that come off the car have heat deflectors fitted !!! Same thickness though, I decided to use the original ones. Now I can sit back and wait for the Sprinting / Hillclimbing season to start. A big thank you to all you Guys for the advice, Hope to see you all at the Scooby Sprint which is being organised next year.