Cambelt Change - Water pump recommended?
#1
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I am about to change the cam belt on my 94 wrx as a preventative measure.. Its done 75k miles and there is no record of a previous change so it seems the intelligent thing to do..
My question is; Is there a service interval for the water pump, or should it be replaced with the cam belt just to be safe??
Or are they made of granite and I'm worrying about nothing
Thanks in advance
My question is; Is there a service interval for the water pump, or should it be replaced with the cam belt just to be safe??
Or are they made of granite and I'm worrying about nothing
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Thanks in advance
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its one of them things you should look at and decide.
if the pump is working fine with no visible sign of leaks and the pulley is unmarked and in good nick dont change it.
If there are any nicks or wear on the pulley change it as it could limit the life of your new belt.
if the pump is working fine with no visible sign of leaks and the pulley is unmarked and in good nick dont change it.
If there are any nicks or wear on the pulley change it as it could limit the life of your new belt.
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As Mark said, and also check for any play in the pulley.. ie. check the bearings are okay.
I am on original pump with 182,000miles just gone.. I wouldn't consider it a weak link.
Also check the crank and cam seals.. tend to get the crank seal leak around the 100k mark so you might want to consider changing it.
Cam seals on mine, one leaked at 145,000miles but the other three are still original. It will be obvious if you find oil behind the covers etc.
Simon
I am on original pump with 182,000miles just gone.. I wouldn't consider it a weak link.
Also check the crank and cam seals.. tend to get the crank seal leak around the 100k mark so you might want to consider changing it.
Cam seals on mine, one leaked at 145,000miles but the other three are still original. It will be obvious if you find oil behind the covers etc.
Simon
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Of course you should inspect the oil pump and all the pulleys in the same way.
Also the tensioner.. although again I am still on the originals so they seem pretty hardy.
Also the tensioner.. although again I am still on the originals so they seem pretty hardy.
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Yes.. I drill a small hole (radiator out if not already) and then screw a blunted screw into the hole until it touches the head and pulls the screw out..
the crank seal needs two.. copy right TweenieRob!
the crank seal needs two.. copy right TweenieRob!
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#9
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I think I'll leave the cam belt till next weekend now, got to fit a new alarm and sort out the leaking PAS..
Thanks for all the help and advice guys! I'm going to see if I can source the pump and seals..
Thanks for all the help and advice guys! I'm going to see if I can source the pump and seals..
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I personally perefer taking the oil pump off to change the crank seal - far less chance of damaging ther lip of the new one on installation and is easier to see when its fully home.
Simons tip work fine, just a bit of extra care needed thats all.
Simons tip work fine, just a bit of extra care needed thats all.
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