Pending good weather I am going to have a crack at the cam belt on the scoob.. I've never done a belt on a EJ20 lump so I dont know where the timing marks are.. I assume there are marks on the cams to line up with the markings on the belt, but what about the crank, is TDC fairly obvious?

Cheers!

 

Ignore TDC, there is a mark on the pulley that aligns with a boss on the oil pump. this is where all 4 pistons are midway up the bores (less chance of valve hitting piston in installation), then as you say you have marks on the belt that align with bosses on the cam pulleys

 

Cheers mate!

 

i found it was not a one man job. i had never done one but with a mate (who had) was easy... not that i did much!

 

Is there enough space to do it with the rad in situte?

 

A guide i put up on another site

Disassembly:

1.Crack the crank pulley nut off. You can do it with the radiator on, but it’s easier with it off for certain. It is tight, you can get a special tool to hold the pulley but a good smack of the t-bar with a hammer should do the job. (bolt is normal right hand thread). Don’t remove the bolt yet.
2.Slacken the alternator and power steering belts with the adjusters. (Mark the adjuster rods with a blob of paint if you want to get the same tension on assembly).
3.Remove the belts.
4.Remove the bolt and crank pulley.
5.Undo the bolts around the cam belt covers and take the covers off. This is what you see.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC00345.jpg
6.Drop the pulley back on, and turn the engine clockwise until the mark on the crank sprocket aligns with the mark on the oil pump. See first pic below. (Note: it is the straight mark you want, not the triangular one). check that the double marks on each adjacent pair of sprockets are aligned as in the second pic below. If they are not and they are 180 deg apart, turn the crank through one more revolution back to the mark on the oil pump and they should come into alignment.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC00336.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC00343.jpg
7.Loosen the bolts holding the semi circular covers around the crank sprocket, and the cam sprockets. (These will be almost touching the belt, stopping it jumping teeth), push the covers out the way so you can take the belt off.

8.Undo the bolt holding the cam tensioner arm into the block, and remove the whole cam tensioner assembly.
9.Undo and remove the two idler pulleys. The small gold (black seal) one adjacent to the top right cam sprocket, and the large one (brown seal) adjacent to the bottom left sprocket.
10.Remove the belt. If the two cams on the right hand side jump, don’t worry. No damage will be caused because the pistons are halfway up the bores. They may do this because these 2 cams are under pressure from the valve springs. The cams on the left bank will not jump because they are not actuating any valves.


Inspection and preparation for fitting new belt.

1.Check all the bearing surfaces and everything that the belt runs on for damage. Replace that component if there is any. Give everywhere a good clean with brake cleaner and a toothbrush etc.
2.Get your camchain tensioner and very lightly clamp it in a vice over the actuation pin and the body. Make sure it is square in the vice. Take you time very carefully tightening the vice a tiny bit at a time. Do not force it. It will take a few minutes to push in all the way, you are in no rush! Once the hole in the pin aligns with the hole in the body put an allen key through to hold the pin in. (the tool I have used in the pic is the one supplied when you buy a new tensioner).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC00335.jpg
3.Pop the pivot bolt out of the assembly (the one holding the tensioner assembly to the crankcase) give it a good clean and put some grease on it. There is an o ring and a weasher behind it.
4.Put the assembly back onto the crankcase an tighten the bolt to 30NM torque.

Fitting the new belt

1.Check the mark on the crank sprocket is still aligned with the mark on the oil pump.
2.Get your belt. It has 1 dotted line, 4 solid lines and some direction arrows on it.
3.Align the dotted line on the belt with the crank sprocket / oil pump mark.
4.make sure the arrows on the belt near to the dotted line are pointing in the direction of engine rotation i.e towards the right hand side of the engine.
5.replace and tighten the little cover above the sprocket to stop the belt jumping.
6.put the belt around the left hand bank first. Loop the belt under the top idler gear and slip it over the top left sprocket. Align the first mark on the belt with the single mark on the top left sprocket. (not the double mark!)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC00339.jpg
7.run the belt down to the bottom left sprocket and align the mark on the belt with the single mark on the sprocket. (not the double marks)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC00340.jpg
8.run the belt along the bottom of the engine, up and around the auxiliary sprocket, over the top of the water pump, and off towards the bottom right hand sprocket.
9.The two right hand sprockets will be on cam, so you will have to fight the valve springs to fit the belt correctly. There is a special tool you can buy to clamp the sprockets in place but you can do it without.
10.put an allen key in the cam sprocket cap head. Turn the sprocket so that the single mark on the cam sprocket aligns with the 3rd belt mark when the belt is slipped over.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC00342.jpg
11.Run the belt up to the last sprocket, and do exactly the same with the allen key and the 4th mark on the belt. You will have to create a little bit of tension on the belt by pulling it upwards to stop the bottom right sprocket jumping the belt. This last sprocket is the metal one, which has no lip on it, but by now it will still be a little bit difficult to fit the belt over it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC00341.jpg
12.Once on, check that all the crank and cam marks are still in alignment with the belt marks.
13.replace the two idler gears you removed earlier. The belt runs over the top of the large lower one, and underneath the small upper one. torque them to 35NM.
14.Move and tighten the semi circular covers at the corner of each cam gear. They should be a mm or two away from the belt.
15.One last check that the dotted belt mark / crank sprocket mark / oil pump mark are in line. That each solid belt mark aligns with the single mark on each cam wheel, and that the double marks on each adjacent cam wheel face each other.
16.Pull the pin out of the tensioner.
17.Put the pulley on loosely, and turn the engine over clockwise. If any resistance is felt (other than compression resistance) stop immediately and check everything again.
18.Once you have done two complete revs, wind it over faster a few turns to let everything settle down and the belt centralise on the pulleys and wheels.
19.Replace the covers, crank pulley and belts in reverse order of removal.

 

Thanks Mark, much appriciated!!

 

Had a crack at it today, took out the rad to make space, got off the aux belts and then removed the pulley bolt.. bloody pulley wouldnt come off and my gear puller is broken from its last use! ****!

 

Great guide mate