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Ooh, knocklink amber..

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Old 02 March 2006 | 05:53 PM
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Question Ooh, knocklink amber..

I'm a little concerned as I have had progressive two ambers but no red on the knocklink the last couple of times I have approached 5k. Its a MY98 with downpipe and back box running Apexi avc-r at 14.5 psi / 0.999 bar. I had it set up with det cans and wideband (just to be sure) in the summer and not had any problems since.
As it has started since filling up on Wednesday evening (optimax, usual station) I'm going to see if it improves with subsequent fill ups, due to the reports of 'bad batches'. Surely a 'bad batch' wouldn't cause two ambers on what is a pretty conservative set up....? Fuel pump ?


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Old 02 March 2006 | 06:16 PM
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Nothin to worrie about, amber means pending det not actual det, could even be down to the very cold weather we r having at the mo, plus a slight drop in octane due to poor batch of fuel.
Old 02 March 2006 | 06:55 PM
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I'd say fuel pump aswell
Old 02 March 2006 | 07:40 PM
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I will have a look at the lambda next time....bit tricky having the eyes on three separate things at once.
Is it possible to check the efficacy of the pump without replacing ? Could it be anything else....


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Old 02 March 2006 | 07:48 PM
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i would just check you KL to make sure the red is working... I thought mine was going to first orange, until I found out that the top 2 leds were not working
Old 02 March 2006 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by WRX_Rich
i would just check you KL to make sure the red is working... I thought mine was going to first orange, until I found out that the top 2 leds were not working


Thanks, will check....

Hakon

Last edited by Hakon; 02 March 2006 at 08:00 PM.
Old 02 March 2006 | 08:07 PM
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Check the fuel pump by disconnecting your fuel feed line, sticking it into a measuring jug or something and running it. Obviously release the fuel pressure first. Don't know how it's done on a Scoob, but on a Clio, I removed the fuel pump fuse, then just turned the engine over on the starter for 10 or 15 seconds. Then you can undo fuel lines with just a couple of rags handy to mop up spills.
Old 02 March 2006 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by silent running
Check the fuel pump by disconnecting your fuel feed line, sticking it into a measuring jug or something and running it. Obviously release the fuel pressure first. Don't know how it's done on a Scoob, but on a Clio, I removed the fuel pump fuse, then just turned the engine over on the starter for 10 or 15 seconds. Then you can undo fuel lines with just a couple of rags handy to mop up spills.
That wont tell you much..

You need to check the actual pressure under load.

Andy
Old 02 March 2006 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Fuzz
That wont tell you much..

You need to check the actual pressure under load.

Andy
Andy, will the lambda show it to be running lean (when amber lights up) ?

Hakon... aka the only un-bump steerable impreza
Old 02 March 2006 | 08:35 PM
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Ah that was you was it.

If the fuel pump is running out of puff at the top it will start to run leaner, Exhaust Gas Temperature can therefore rise leading to the onset of det.


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Old 02 March 2006 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Fuzz
Ah that was you was it.

If the fuel pump is running out of puff at the top it will start to run leaner, Exhaust Gas Temperature can therefore rise leading to the onset of det.


Andy
Thanks Andy,
Going to empty the tank and refill a few times to see if it thats the problem, failing that, will get a new fuel pump..... should I go for a warlbro on a standard fuel rail set up...

Thanks
Hakon
Old 02 March 2006 | 09:23 PM
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If that's the actual problem yea..
Best to check fuel pressure properly before spending money needlessly though!.



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Old 02 March 2006 | 11:45 PM
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whats the best way to check the lights on a knocklink?
Old 02 March 2006 | 11:47 PM
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tap the block next to the sensor with something metal - its much easiyer to tap the sensor but don't blame me if it busts
Old 03 March 2006 | 01:49 AM
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Mine flashes 1st green on using the starter motor and before the other day flashed 1st green on wot 4-5k sometimes....


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Old 03 March 2006 | 09:15 AM
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I'd worry with 2 yellows. Between 4,500 and 5,200 is where det is most likley to occur and is where most of the timing i pulled out of the map.

I think you need to get the AFR checked again with a wideband lambda, as your MAF may be dying and causing it to run lean.

Maybe worth cleaning the MAF. It's ok to do this on MY97/98 mafs with a cotton bud and some brake cleaner.

Are you running an induction kit, if so you MAF may be fouled as some of them don't give very good filtration.
Old 03 March 2006 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott.T
I'd worry with 2 yellows. Between 4,500 and 5,200 is where det is most likley to occur and is where most of the timing i pulled out of the map.

I think you need to get the AFR checked again with a wideband lambda, as your MAF may be dying and causing it to run lean.

Maybe worth cleaning the MAF. It's ok to do this on MY97/98 mafs with a cotton bud and some brake cleaner.

Are you running an induction kit, if so you MAF may be fouled as some of them don't give very good filtration.
I did run K+N cone for a while but have been on a panel filter for the last year and a half. Will clean the MAF.

Thanks
Hakon
Old 03 March 2006 | 07:55 PM
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Ok,
cleaned the Maf. So, if its not the bad batch, then I will need to check pump and Maf,,

1. How do you check Maf... ? select monitor ?
2. How do you check the fuel pump struggling 4-5k ??



Hakon
Old 03 March 2006 | 10:22 PM
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I have a MY99 with full decat, upgraded fuel pump, uprated filter and manual boost controller set at 1.1 bar, driving home from work last week i had a little fun on a stretch and for the first time in a year i had a red light up on KL, usually i have nothing at all

checked the SECS and it showed 0.5 degree knock correction from ecu, i was sure it was the MAF, hold it off boost til i came home, unplugged the MAF whil engine running and it went down in revs but then up again indicating the ecu has learned to cope with the missing or wrong input from MAF, MAF knackered, had one in spare put it in, start up unplug maf and engine stalls

healthy maf, no det anymore and no knock correction showing on SECS

runs as sweet as a ***** cat

knocklink's may be considered silly by some here but thats the second time it tells me something is wrong, 2 MAFS gone

and it does seem like the car is running abit leaner and have a bit more power then usual when MAF is not healthy

Last edited by ReggieMY99; 03 March 2006 at 10:30 PM.
Old 04 March 2006 | 01:30 AM
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Cheers Reggie, there will always be a few Richard heads on forums who are slightly ignorant... goes with the territory I suppose.

More importantly,,,, cleaned the maf this afternoon with brake cleaner and gentle cotton bud.................. now NO action on the 'cocklink' except the usual flicker on first green up to about 6k. Will keep an eye open.


Hakon

Last edited by Hakon; 04 March 2006 at 01:32 AM.
Old 05 March 2006 | 05:02 PM
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glad that seems to of helped....nice none
Old 05 March 2006 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott.T
glad that seems to of helped....nice none
Yes, nice one indeed Scott.T


Hakon
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