Ooh, knocklink amber..
#1
Ooh, knocklink amber..
I'm a little concerned as I have had progressive two ambers but no red on the knocklink the last couple of times I have approached 5k. Its a MY98 with downpipe and back box running Apexi avc-r at 14.5 psi / 0.999 bar. I had it set up with det cans and wideband (just to be sure) in the summer and not had any problems since.
As it has started since filling up on Wednesday evening (optimax, usual station) I'm going to see if it improves with subsequent fill ups, due to the reports of 'bad batches'. Surely a 'bad batch' wouldn't cause two ambers on what is a pretty conservative set up....? Fuel pump ?
Hakon
As it has started since filling up on Wednesday evening (optimax, usual station) I'm going to see if it improves with subsequent fill ups, due to the reports of 'bad batches'. Surely a 'bad batch' wouldn't cause two ambers on what is a pretty conservative set up....? Fuel pump ?
Hakon
#4
I will have a look at the lambda next time....bit tricky having the eyes on three separate things at once.
Is it possible to check the efficacy of the pump without replacing ? Could it be anything else....
Hakon
Is it possible to check the efficacy of the pump without replacing ? Could it be anything else....
Hakon
#6
Originally Posted by WRX_Rich
i would just check you KL to make sure the red is working... I thought mine was going to first orange, until I found out that the top 2 leds were not working
Thanks, will check....
Hakon
Last edited by Hakon; 02 March 2006 at 08:00 PM.
#7
Check the fuel pump by disconnecting your fuel feed line, sticking it into a measuring jug or something and running it. Obviously release the fuel pressure first. Don't know how it's done on a Scoob, but on a Clio, I removed the fuel pump fuse, then just turned the engine over on the starter for 10 or 15 seconds. Then you can undo fuel lines with just a couple of rags handy to mop up spills.
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#8
Originally Posted by silent running
Check the fuel pump by disconnecting your fuel feed line, sticking it into a measuring jug or something and running it. Obviously release the fuel pressure first. Don't know how it's done on a Scoob, but on a Clio, I removed the fuel pump fuse, then just turned the engine over on the starter for 10 or 15 seconds. Then you can undo fuel lines with just a couple of rags handy to mop up spills.
You need to check the actual pressure under load.
Andy
#9
Originally Posted by Fuzz
That wont tell you much..
You need to check the actual pressure under load.
Andy
You need to check the actual pressure under load.
Andy
Hakon... aka the only un-bump steerable impreza
#11
Originally Posted by Fuzz
Ah that was you was it.
If the fuel pump is running out of puff at the top it will start to run leaner, Exhaust Gas Temperature can therefore rise leading to the onset of det.
Andy
If the fuel pump is running out of puff at the top it will start to run leaner, Exhaust Gas Temperature can therefore rise leading to the onset of det.
Andy
Going to empty the tank and refill a few times to see if it thats the problem, failing that, will get a new fuel pump..... should I go for a warlbro on a standard fuel rail set up...
Thanks
Hakon
#16
I'd worry with 2 yellows. Between 4,500 and 5,200 is where det is most likley to occur and is where most of the timing i pulled out of the map.
I think you need to get the AFR checked again with a wideband lambda, as your MAF may be dying and causing it to run lean.
Maybe worth cleaning the MAF. It's ok to do this on MY97/98 mafs with a cotton bud and some brake cleaner.
Are you running an induction kit, if so you MAF may be fouled as some of them don't give very good filtration.
I think you need to get the AFR checked again with a wideband lambda, as your MAF may be dying and causing it to run lean.
Maybe worth cleaning the MAF. It's ok to do this on MY97/98 mafs with a cotton bud and some brake cleaner.
Are you running an induction kit, if so you MAF may be fouled as some of them don't give very good filtration.
#17
Originally Posted by Scott.T
I'd worry with 2 yellows. Between 4,500 and 5,200 is where det is most likley to occur and is where most of the timing i pulled out of the map.
I think you need to get the AFR checked again with a wideband lambda, as your MAF may be dying and causing it to run lean.
Maybe worth cleaning the MAF. It's ok to do this on MY97/98 mafs with a cotton bud and some brake cleaner.
Are you running an induction kit, if so you MAF may be fouled as some of them don't give very good filtration.
I think you need to get the AFR checked again with a wideband lambda, as your MAF may be dying and causing it to run lean.
Maybe worth cleaning the MAF. It's ok to do this on MY97/98 mafs with a cotton bud and some brake cleaner.
Are you running an induction kit, if so you MAF may be fouled as some of them don't give very good filtration.
Thanks
Hakon
#18
Ok,
cleaned the Maf. So, if its not the bad batch, then I will need to check pump and Maf,,
1. How do you check Maf... ? select monitor ?
2. How do you check the fuel pump struggling 4-5k ??
Hakon
cleaned the Maf. So, if its not the bad batch, then I will need to check pump and Maf,,
1. How do you check Maf... ? select monitor ?
2. How do you check the fuel pump struggling 4-5k ??
Hakon
#19
I have a MY99 with full decat, upgraded fuel pump, uprated filter and manual boost controller set at 1.1 bar, driving home from work last week i had a little fun on a stretch and for the first time in a year i had a red light up on KL, usually i have nothing at all
checked the SECS and it showed 0.5 degree knock correction from ecu, i was sure it was the MAF, hold it off boost til i came home, unplugged the MAF whil engine running and it went down in revs but then up again indicating the ecu has learned to cope with the missing or wrong input from MAF, MAF knackered, had one in spare put it in, start up unplug maf and engine stalls
healthy maf, no det anymore and no knock correction showing on SECS
runs as sweet as a ***** cat
knocklink's may be considered silly by some here but thats the second time it tells me something is wrong, 2 MAFS gone
and it does seem like the car is running abit leaner and have a bit more power then usual when MAF is not healthy
checked the SECS and it showed 0.5 degree knock correction from ecu, i was sure it was the MAF, hold it off boost til i came home, unplugged the MAF whil engine running and it went down in revs but then up again indicating the ecu has learned to cope with the missing or wrong input from MAF, MAF knackered, had one in spare put it in, start up unplug maf and engine stalls
healthy maf, no det anymore and no knock correction showing on SECS
runs as sweet as a ***** cat
knocklink's may be considered silly by some here but thats the second time it tells me something is wrong, 2 MAFS gone
and it does seem like the car is running abit leaner and have a bit more power then usual when MAF is not healthy
Last edited by ReggieMY99; 03 March 2006 at 10:30 PM.
#20
Cheers Reggie, there will always be a few Richard heads on forums who are slightly ignorant... goes with the territory I suppose.
More importantly,,,, cleaned the maf this afternoon with brake cleaner and gentle cotton bud.................. now NO action on the 'cocklink' except the usual flicker on first green up to about 6k. Will keep an eye open.
Hakon
More importantly,,,, cleaned the maf this afternoon with brake cleaner and gentle cotton bud.................. now NO action on the 'cocklink' except the usual flicker on first green up to about 6k. Will keep an eye open.
Hakon
Last edited by Hakon; 04 March 2006 at 01:32 AM.
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