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Old 18 May 2006, 08:56 AM
  #1  
stevo1970
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Default PPP v Tek2

Hello all

My MY00 Classic is currently standard. i intend modifying it for a mild power increase. I have two options, which do you think is best, bearing in mind I'm not looking for ultimate power just a healthy increase while maintining reliability.

1. PPP with both cats removed and resonated centre section.
2. Tek 2 ecu + back box, resonated centre section, air filter and again both cats removed.

Please also bear in mind I'm not looking for loud.

Stevo
Old 18 May 2006, 09:03 AM
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tek - why pay for an off the shelf ecu with costs built in for warranty when the tek will be done for your car alone and will be cheaper and easier to change when/if you have further mods done.
Old 18 May 2006, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by stevo1970
Hello all

My MY00 Classic is currently standard. i intend modifying it for a mild power increase. I have two options, which do you think is best, bearing in mind I'm not looking for ultimate power just a healthy increase while maintining reliability.

1. PPP with both cats removed and resonated centre section.
2. Tek 2 ecu + back box, resonated centre section, air filter and again both cats removed.

Please also bear in mind I'm not looking for loud.

Stevo
Neither mate. Get something tailored to YOUR car

Warranty is not an issue for you so I'd get:

Sports cat DP from Scoobyworld £299
Resonated centre from H&S about £140
Uprated panel filter about £40
Tek3 remap £570ish if you can jump on a GB (powerstation have one going)
Keep the std backbox if you want to keep things quiet, the maxnex oval one is also fairly quiet by all accounts but gives a nicer burble than std..

The above will give significantly better gains than the PPP and cost quite a bit less. It's also a map designed for your specific car, not a generic one for a whole batch.

Ns04
Old 18 May 2006, 10:01 AM
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GazTheHat
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Now Powerstation have reduced their prices on the "packages", there's almost no money to be saved by an individual route.
Old 18 May 2006, 10:51 AM
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What about a second hand PPP with decat's or even just a decat down pipe?

Surely that would be cheaper.
Old 18 May 2006, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by GazTheHat
Now Powerstation have reduced their prices on the "packages", there's almost no money to be saved by an individual route.
They have?

Originally Posted by Powerstation
Street Legal Package
EcuTek Re-Map
3" Milltek Exhaust with Sports CAT
K&N Filter
~320bhp @ £1350 +vat
Which is £1586.25 inc VAT. Unless the PPP price is 1600+vat then it's not exactly miles cheaper (just checked and it does include VAT)?
Old 18 May 2006, 11:18 AM
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ozzy
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2nd hand PPP and Tek 2 ECU's vary from as little as £150 to as much as £300.

Buy 2nd hand if you can (except the filter) as you'll get the same performance gains without shelling out loads of cash.

Downpipe - £80+
Decat Centre - £50+
Backbox - £90+
STI Panel Filter - £45 (new)
PPP or Tek2 ECU - £250 (average)

Keep your std catted centre if you want to be road-legal and pass the MOT without worrying.

So for a little over £500 you can get a good performance increase without shelling out on a cutom re-map.

Just my 2p worth
Old 18 May 2006, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ozzy
2nd hand PPP and Tek 2 ECU's vary from as little as £150 to as much as £300.

Buy 2nd hand if you can (except the filter) as you'll get the same performance gains without shelling out loads of cash.

Downpipe - £80+
Decat Centre - £50+
Backbox - £90+
STI Panel Filter - £45 (new)
PPP or Tek2 ECU - £250 (average)

Keep your std catted centre if you want to be road-legal and pass the MOT without worrying.

So for a little over £500 you can get a good performance increase without shelling out on a cutom re-map.

Just my 2p worth
I would suggest that's good advice if youre on a budget, with the exception of the ECU. You can buy a 2nd hand TEK3 ECU (for similar money) and then have it mapped to your mods for substanitally less than a 1st Tek3 map, as you'll have the licence.

Even with NEW parts and a 1st tek 3 map my package only came to £1049 (over £500 cheaper than a PPP) if you buy 2nd hand (including an ECU with a TEK 3 licence) its still probably going to hover at not too much over the £500 mark.

Ns04
Old 18 May 2006, 01:00 PM
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john banks
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Used full exhaust £220, £10 boost gauge off ebay, 8p zener diode and tighten your actuator (10mm spanner).

Get some hosepipe, copper pipe and some £3 ear defenders off ebay or screwfix to make some detcans which you can mount near the OEM knock sensor under the TMIC. Get your friend to listen whilst you give it a roasting.

If it knocks, reduce the boost or increase the octane.

£233.08 and an afternoon of your time and you should have 270 BHP and 270 lbft.
Old 18 May 2006, 01:34 PM
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ozzy
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No one in their right mind would pay £1600 for a PPP on a 6/7yr old car though unless they can actually get a warranty on that age of car.

As John says, you could pick up a 2nd-hand exhaust for peanuts. The prices I quoted was for stuff in excellent condition and Scoobynet pricing

Not everyone has bat-like hearing as you John or the skill involved in knowing what to listen for

PPP/Tek is the "safe" route. Manual boost controller is safe if used properly and you don't turn into a boostaholic
Old 18 May 2006, 02:25 PM
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john banks
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I used your prices for stuff

Det is easy to hear through det cans on a Scooby. If not a knocklink would do. As per advice I ordered the sensor separately, total cost £106.
Old 18 May 2006, 02:30 PM
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ozzy
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I just make them up as I go along

Our "Scottishness" is rubbing off on you
Old 18 May 2006, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by john banks
Used full exhaust £220, £10 boost gauge off ebay, 8p zener diode and tighten your actuator (10mm spanner).

Get some hosepipe, copper pipe and some £3 ear defenders off ebay or screwfix to make some detcans which you can mount near the OEM knock sensor under the TMIC. Get your friend to listen whilst you give it a roasting.

If it knocks, reduce the boost or increase the octane.

£233.08 and an afternoon of your time and you should have 270 BHP and 270 lbft.
There's no way i'd trust myself to do anything like that. I've put on mudflaps and changed the wheels, never done more than that...

I'll stick with RDBMS and leave cars to mechanics
Old 18 May 2006, 05:13 PM
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stevo1970
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Originally Posted by john banks
Used full exhaust £220, £10 boost gauge off ebay, 8p zener diode and tighten your actuator (10mm spanner).

Get some hosepipe, copper pipe and some £3 ear defenders off ebay or screwfix to make some detcans which you can mount near the OEM knock sensor under the TMIC. Get your friend to listen whilst you give it a roasting.

If it knocks, reduce the boost or increase the octane.

£233.08 and an afternoon of your time and you should have 270 BHP and 270 lbft.
Would a piece of string and a paper cup work just as well?

Can I understand from all this that a second hand ppp ecu (or TEK 2 ecu) keeping my STi back box from V3 jap import (too keep noise down), a panel filter and a front decat (maybe a centre decat too) will all work in harmony and won't give any problems? I always run the car on BP ultimate or Optimax, will this help?

I don't really want to start fitting boost guages and electronic giggery pokery to the dash, i'd like to keep it standard.
Old 18 May 2006, 05:22 PM
  #15  
ozzy
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Some people have experienced some boost spikes with the PPP and a decat downpipe. This is easily rectified with a new restrictor - it's in the small pipe that goes from the actuator to the turbo inlet. There's a T-piece in the middle of this join, the restrictor should be approx 25mm to the right of the T-piece towards the turbo inlet side.

You don't need any special kit or fancy guages with these mods.

Stefan
Old 18 May 2006, 08:33 PM
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sideways scooby
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I have ppp on my00,

ppp ecu £200
Down pipe £80
centre section £50
Panel filter £30
Intercooler piping £60
The car already had a backbox on
Made 270bhp and 270lbft on teg sport rollers
Old 19 May 2006, 11:44 AM
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stevo1970
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Originally Posted by ozzy
Some people have experienced some boost spikes with the PPP and a decat downpipe. This is easily rectified with a new restrictor - it's in the small pipe that goes from the actuator to the turbo inlet. There's a T-piece in the middle of this join, the restrictor should be approx 25mm to the right of the T-piece towards the turbo inlet side.

You don't need any special kit or fancy guages with these mods.

Stefan
Thanks man

Tell me more about this restrictor. Where do I get one and is there a particular type I should get? This is assuming I need one when I buy and fit the parts of course.

Stevo
Old 19 May 2006, 12:10 PM
  #18  
ozzy
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It's basically just a little brass pellet with a hole drilled in it that sits in the pipework. IIRC the size of the hole in the OE restrictor is 1.20mm. Not sure if you need one with a slightly larger or smaller bore.

I'm sure a Dealer would get one for you (should be peanuts for what it is) or you could source one from any engineering supplier/motor factor/etc..

John Banks could tell you as I'm sure he tinkered with his when he had his PPP'd car.

Stefan
Old 19 May 2006, 12:14 PM
  #19  
ozzy
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have a read of this - http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthrea...***+restrictor
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