Revs drop, scooby stalls
#1
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Revs drop, scooby stalls
I’ve got a 95 WRX wagon which I’ve had for 3 weeks, fresh import.
It doesn’t appear to have any engine mods, that I can tell, other than evidence of some sort of boost gauge.
The problem is when from cold and in damp conditions (I’m not 100% sure if the damp is a contributing factor) I reverse off my drive, slowly letting out the clutch and at the same time turning the wheels, the engine revs drop and I stall. This continues to happen until the engine has warmed up.
Do you think I need the idle speed adjusted? Or is it something more serious?
It doesn’t appear to have any engine mods, that I can tell, other than evidence of some sort of boost gauge.
The problem is when from cold and in damp conditions (I’m not 100% sure if the damp is a contributing factor) I reverse off my drive, slowly letting out the clutch and at the same time turning the wheels, the engine revs drop and I stall. This continues to happen until the engine has warmed up.
Do you think I need the idle speed adjusted? Or is it something more serious?
#2
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What does it idle at normally or when cold.
It should idle at about 1,300rpm on a cold start then drop to about 850rpm when warm.
It could be the idle speed control valve which does have some adjustment (it's on the right hand side of the inlet manifold, just in front to the intercooler). This has 2 screws holding it but the fixings are slotted, so there is a small amount of rotation to be had.
If the Idle is OK when warm i.e about 850rpm but still only 850rpm when cold then I expect it could be the temperature sensor, which is buried under the inlet pipes towards the middle of the engine. A bit of a pain to get to......
It should idle at about 1,300rpm on a cold start then drop to about 850rpm when warm.
It could be the idle speed control valve which does have some adjustment (it's on the right hand side of the inlet manifold, just in front to the intercooler). This has 2 screws holding it but the fixings are slotted, so there is a small amount of rotation to be had.
If the Idle is OK when warm i.e about 850rpm but still only 850rpm when cold then I expect it could be the temperature sensor, which is buried under the inlet pipes towards the middle of the engine. A bit of a pain to get to......
#4
Ahh here we go.. My car was perfect before getting my de-cat, they broke and removed the exhaust gas temp sensor and I got the exact same problem. Other options are my lambda which I know for a fact is'nt working. Im getting it replaced tomorrow so I'll let you know if I still get this problem.
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The engine revs when warm seem ok around the 900 mark.
However when I first started her up they flew up to 1800, they did settle around 1400 but 30 secs later after I got out of the car park I was sat at the lights with the revs around the 1000 mark. The needle still point at the C on the temperature gauge.
You think it could be the temperture sensor then?
However when I first started her up they flew up to 1800, they did settle around 1400 but 30 secs later after I got out of the car park I was sat at the lights with the revs around the 1000 mark. The needle still point at the C on the temperature gauge.
You think it could be the temperture sensor then?
#6
Im sure this is related to the Lambda (O2) Sensor, if its not working it'll just chuck fuel in. Other things to consider is Mass Air Flow, and Idle Valve. Do you have a Dump valve (After market) ? I really dont think it could be the Exhaust Gas Temp sensor because it just sits in the cat, maybe im wrong?
Have you tryed resetting the ecu and running the diagnostic test from under the drivers side dash?
Have you tryed resetting the ecu and running the diagnostic test from under the drivers side dash?
#7
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Maybe I need it looking at sooner rather than later. Another thing I noticed on the way home was when a bliped the gas (not hard and the car still cold) and then came off the car judded a bit .
I don't think it is the Mass Air flow that was the first problem I had and thats now fixed.
No after market dump valve that I know of.
Ecu resetting and diagnostic testing!!! Can I do that?
Should I be doing that?!
I wouldn't know where to start.
I don't think it is the Mass Air flow that was the first problem I had and thats now fixed.
No after market dump valve that I know of.
Ecu resetting and diagnostic testing!!! Can I do that?
Should I be doing that?!
I wouldn't know where to start.
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#8
Originally Posted by orbix
Maybe I need it looking at sooner rather than later. Another thing I noticed on the way home was when a bliped the gas (not hard and the car still cold) and then came off the car judded a bit .
I don't think it is the Mass Air flow that was the first problem I had and thats now fixed.
No after market dump valve that I know of.
Ecu resetting and diagnostic testing!!! Can I do that?
Should I be doing that?!
I wouldn't know where to start.
I don't think it is the Mass Air flow that was the first problem I had and thats now fixed.
No after market dump valve that I know of.
Ecu resetting and diagnostic testing!!! Can I do that?
Should I be doing that?!
I wouldn't know where to start.
#10
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Update
Took it to TSL Motorsport this morning to let them have a look over it.
No faults showed up on the diagnostics. However they noticed it wasn't running quite right and after a little investigating, they found the lambda sensor would only cycle at 0.6 volt and 2 corroded coil packs.
So now it is running much better, I'll have to wait until tomorrow morning to see if the cold start problem is cured.
No faults showed up on the diagnostics. However they noticed it wasn't running quite right and after a little investigating, they found the lambda sensor would only cycle at 0.6 volt and 2 corroded coil packs.
So now it is running much better, I'll have to wait until tomorrow morning to see if the cold start problem is cured.
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