hi guys,fitted a knock link (detalarm from rupert) and mounted the sensor as pic below,but it only lights up if i tap the head of the bolt i used to fix it down with??? is this normal,just took car for spin too and it didnt light up even to the first led with full boost,flat out???

 

anyone,surely others have fitted knocklinks with the bosch sensor in this position too???? what reading are you getting?

 

The original KL has a sensitivity pot that needs turning fully clockwise but the Detalarm doesn't have this.
Other than that it sounds like yours is working fine.
High rpm/boost gear changes should only see a flash of the 2nd green LED.

NIck

 

Should be getting my DetAlarm fitted tomorrow in fact. Will let you know how it goes.

Out of interst where did you mount the little box of LEDs? And how did you route the wire through to the engine bay and hook up to power?

 

I did read somewhere that the DetAlarm is not adjustable but that it mimicks a Knocklink set to full sensitivity.

 

Thats right.

Scoobykevuk,

I would expect the first green led to flicker under full boost conditions, but some engines can be more detonation free than others. Lots of factors to look at such as boost level, intercooling, ignition advance....

Sensitivity could be reduced with poor wire connections or if the board was badly soldered (DIY kit only).

 

i see,well if its working im happy with no activity!!!!
james.... i mounted mine along with afr meter in the o/s/f centre air vent (vent removed) ran power from battery live and earth and wires through big groomet on bulkhead passenger side,comes out just below heater box,spot on.
let me know how it goes mate and if you get any levels of knock,cheers dude

 

Put mine in today. Have wired it up right (I think) to the cigarette lighter power. But first LED is not coming on. Strangely, if I "tickle/stroke" the power wires (red or black) with their respective connections to power then the led flickers - but if I make a firm connection proper then it doesn't. Hopefully I haven't done anything wrong but I sent a PM to Rupert for some advice.

 

Hi James, I have replied.

I am pretty sure that the first LED is lighting up - it is just very dim so that you cannot confuse the 'on' light with detonation.

Try checking it in dim lighting conditions or cup it.

Alternatively just carry on with the install and connect up the sensor and check to see if the LEDS resond to tapping onthe sensor. I do a thorough test on all detalarms I sell so it should be fine.

The reason you are getting flickering when you tickle the wires is that you are causing power surges that are being 'read' as detonation signals.

 

Now working thanks.

 

are you getting any levels of knock mate or even the 1st led lighting on full boost or changes??

 

Didn't reply earlier as I was getting some knock and didn't want to scare myself with some of the replies I would get

I was getting no lights at all until I hit 5000rpm. Then the first led would flicker. By the time it got to 8000rpm then both red leds would light up. This would happen even if I was stationary and out of gear. I've taken this to mean the DetAlarm is picking up some noise and that it probably (hopefully?) isn't knock.

Every now and again when I floored it in 4th (and especially when dropping from 5th) I'd get a sudden spike of all leds lighting up. This I think was the real knock.

Anyway, I've since replaced the MAF and done an ECU reset and the the leds are much calmer now. I don't get the sudden spikes although I still get a gradual increase in leds lighting up past 5000rpm.

Basically, I've decided not to worry about it

Oh, the car is an STi6 with a remap by Andy Forrest, and I run it on Tesco 99 or Optimax.

 

A pic of my install. Nice and discrete just under the stereo.

 

can you see it though??
i noticed today on full boost could just manage to get 1st led to flicker @ 0.9bar

 

eres mine,will do for now

 

Yeah, not a problem as I can see it out the corner of my eye when it flashes. Also, girlfriend now has the job of watching it

 

lol,very good mate!!

 

bump

 

The KL sensor doesn't replace the std sensor. Fit it as shown in the photo at the top - this only needs the intercooler taking off.
As as I can remember, the std one is in a position that doesn't need the inlet manifold taking off anyway. Sounds like your mechanic is after earning some extra money?

nick

 

Agree

 

Thanks people. I just hope that isn't the case.

 

I would have thought (might be wrong) if you consented to him doing the work then your screwed but if you never gave him permission to take the manifold off the you shouldnt have to pay him, also he quite clearly has taken on a job hes not capable of doing therefore I would have a friendly chat with him about it and see if you can work something out. If you threaten legal action etc it's going to get his back up and probably get messy!
Good luck

 

Can't he be sent the picture from the start of the thread?
Perhaps he doesn't want to alarm you about the nut that he's dropped into the inlet? He needs to take it off to fish it out?

 

Chris, i think thats a bit unfair, maybe there has been cross wires with communication .

I was under the impression Craig has been keeping you informed of all goings on with your car, and what he is saying regarding the position of the knock sensor makes perfect sense, in as much as if it were fitted on the bell housing, as you've now requested it will show up a reading, but might not be an acurate reading.

To say he hasnt got a clue is very unreasonable, weve had many impreza's through and have never had any complaints, not to mention the full rebuild that we have already carried out on your car

 

Chris, Your response has made me join Scoobynet just to get our side across.
To suggest that I do not know what I am doing is deeply unfair, as I have worked on numerous imprezas with no problems, and I carried out the full engine rebuild on your car with no faults either.

The problem with the knock link you bought is that in the instructions it states to fit it in a position that receives a signal close to the original one, which means close to the o.e sensor. To remove the o.e sensor and refit the knock link one to the original wire is not incorrect, and it means the signal is more accurate. Subaru would not have put the original there if it could just have been bolted the the top of the block as in the pictures.

Also you have misquoted me, I did not say forum users do not know what they are talking about, I said that if you were a home mechanic it would be easier to fit the sensor in that position and not remove the manifold. I have the necessary knowledge and equipment to put it in the original position with no problems. You later said that you only wanted it on the block so that you could remove it easily if necessary.

 

I have retracted my comments as requested.
I do clearly remember however the comment you made about 'those internet forums', which considering the help I have obtained from here, did hit a nerve.

 

The nearest available bolt hole to the OEM sensor is about 3" away as shown in the photo - where was this KL sensor planned to go under the inlet?

The OEM knock sensor is located in a position without the need to remove the inlet manifold for its removal if it fails. This is documented in Subaru repair manuals.

To remove the oem sensor and replace with KL sensor is incorrect for classic cars as the connector won't fit. If the KL was to be used as the only knock sensor then the ECU won't pick up any signal and retard the timing - rather risky?
Running both the ECU and KL off one sensor won't work either.

The KL package is aimed at DIY enthusiasts and as such shouldn't require major work to fit it. What is the point of buying one if the fitting charge is more than or equal to the purchase cost?

Nick

 

I think his idea was to take the signal from the sensor to both the ecu and the digital display.
I only got wound up Craig, because of the way you basically dismissed any other opinion, including my own.

Like I said, no one, including many well known tuners on here, has ever spliced the knocklink into the original sensor.
The frequency emitted by the engine is picked up by the sensor. So I am a little confused as you have now stated that the bolt hole in question, will not be accurate.
Well, if it isn't accurate on the block, why is the original sensor mounted on the block, all be it in a different position?

 

Splicing into the wire from the OEM sensor for the knocklink display is not recommended....... my first Knocklink was fitted this way and discovered by Bob Rawle when he checked my car over prior to mapping.

Bob suggested I get an additional sensor and use that as the ECU might mis read signals from the OEM sensor with the wire being spliced.

HTH

Shaun

 

This is also what concerns me craig.

'The OEM knock sensor is located in a position without the need to remove the inlet manifold for its removal if it fails. This is documented in Subaru repair manuals.'