SanMan

Hi there pplz...

Please could anyone send me some of their Link ECU maps and a list of modes ect... as I would like to compare again mine
I will send to anyone that would like to have a look and advise...

Many thanks,
SaM

SanMan

Hi All,
Being new to LINK ECU tuning I have no clue what is what when what... if you get what I mean?
I have attached my map, please could someone help out with a few guidelines on how to program this LINK as there is no support for LINK in JHB, South Africa... nice hey Anyways even telephone numbers would be fine...
I need some guidelines and best practises... Programming these things aint rocket science I am sure... Please help?
Here is the link to my map... i cannot load onto this page???

http://www.subaruclub.co.za/forums/showthread.php?t=2327

Many thanks
SanMan

SecretAgentMan

What model year and specification is the car?

/J

SanMan

Hi J,
Thanks for the speedy reply... I have posted this everywhere you can think of... and have book marked and default paged those links... I would like to get my car running on 95 unlead octane optimally with max boost and no detonations... Johannesburg is 1750m above sea level if that matters...
I have the following mods on my 1995 Sti Version 2 Wagon:
3" HKS Exchaust with no cats
Air Filter
Manual Boost Controller
LINK Plug-IN ECU with the ribbon cable and hand controller unit.
Everything things else is pretty standard. What do I need to change...

Does the manual boost controller need to come out???
The Air Flow Meter does this need to come out???
Where can I get other maps???
Should LAMBDA be on or off???
What is the LAMBDA???
What does MAF stand for and what is it???
Why does the damn CAT light stay on???
How can I get better performance... I had a Gizzmo chip in the car and it was running really nicely.

Many thanks from a really confused,
SanMan

Hindsight,
I should have rather installed this LINK when I was in Pukekohue,AKL,NZ when REX asked me it I wanted a second hand one for $1000 3.5years again

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

Hi,

drop me an email Simon@JollyGreenMonster.co.uk and I'll sort you something and go through a few things.

Thanks
Simon

SecretAgentMan

I'd start off sourcing a good wideband air/fuel meter (Innovate LM-1 is superb, and can be found all over the US).
First thing is to get a safe advance map for your fuel, then you'll want to map every row of the fuel map so that's spot on more or less (map is divided into advance on one axis, and pressure on the other, which creates "rows").

Talking fuelling I usually take one row at a time, but remember that the link ecu interpolates, so if you've got a substantially larger number in the same column, in the rows above or beneath it'll take longer to accomplish, and be a general PITA*.
Going through the pressure rows this will even out slowly, but it helps to have the on boost ones fairly similar to begin with, naturally more boost takes more fuel (talking fuelling here).
Basically, aim in the middle of the pressure row, run it at that manifold pressure level from as low a rev as possible to as close to the limiter as you dare to.
You need a driver that can control boost with the right foot...if you don't keep the boost steady at the level you want, you'll be all over the map...

Start with "rowfuel", that alters the fuelling for the entire pressure row you're actually running the car in, then adjust each zone with more accuracy.

I usually use the brakes to get it to spool at a lower rev than usual, and map in 3rd gear, and make sure to triple check everything with higher loads (5th gear and steep hills, etc).

Around 15:1 is good for the vaacum zones, I tend to get a smooth transition going to atmospheric (0 on a boost gauge) running mid 13's just before 0, then immediately after atmospheric I go to middle 12's, mid boost I tend to go mid 11's, and if it's my engine I keep it around middle 11's - if it's someone elses I keep full boost around high 10's.

If I recall correctly the older links are "6-row", the latest software might be 10-row, but I don't think you can map with a pc, you need the hand controller to do that.

Listen to Simon here, he knows his stuff, I assume he's got a good advance curve in store for you.

/J

* Pain In the *rse

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

Hi J!

From the email I just got with a scanned hand written map in it I presume he only has the hand controller.. however the numbers in it are the raw fuel values rather than a percentage so therefore not one of the very early links so should be able to use a serial link.. although don't know if he has one.. but I do have a spare I could sell him if he has a laptop.
It is a 6row btw.

As J said you need to source a wideband..

Simon

SanMan

Thanks for the info... I am tryin to track down the damn o2 sensor... chatting with simon as we speak...

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

Suggest you talk to AndrewC regarding a wideband / O2..

He does good prices of Tech Edge widebands which is what I am many others use.

Simon

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

AndrewC http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/member.php?u=3132

SanMan

Hi Simon,
I will try to locate the O2 in South Africa... the have the one by Innovate LM1 here... apparantly
On another note, have you ever opened that LINK Serial Convertor?

I sure that its just a pin remapping... cos there are 14 pin on the ribbon and 9 pins on the serial... how difficult can it be to make a convertor?

Thanks,
SaM

AndrewC

SerialLink is a essentially just a level shifter using a max232 although there is some circuitry to help the ECU assess that it has a SerialLink rather than a Hand Controller plugged in.

Andrew...

SanMan

Hi Andrew,
Do you have pics of the tech edge? Do u have South Africa distributors?
Many thanks,
Sanford

AndrewC

I don't believe Techedge have a SA distributor, but you can buy direct: http://www.wbo2.com

Andrew...

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

Sanford,

How are you getting since I sent the Serial Link out?

Simon

harvey

iTrader: (48)

The information given by Sam above was very comprehensive and I guess the input from Simon will have been a big help.
Rather than use the hand held management unit for other than minor changes during a journey I found using a laptop was far easier and quicker.
You can download the six row software from here :

http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink

I assume it is six row you have for the 95 WRX Wagon.
I can send you several maps but they may not be particularly relevant as I am close to sea level, running around 100 octane and the car was developed to 400 bhp.

Despite the six row unit being relatively crude and I ran it on map as opposed to MAF I got better power from the six row Link than from the subsequent Power FC.

E-mail me if you want some maps.

SanMan

Progress to date...
Since I have been unable to get a decent tuner here in good ol JHB,South Africa I have put the gizzmo chip back into the car... i have also replaced my sparkies cos I could not get 17psi on 102.6 Octane petrol... damn this is frustating... not too mention that I am unable to purchase a afr wbo due to cash contraints but such is life...
Now I still have this hesitation at high rpm under load an if it aint the spark plugs, which I have replaced with new NGK PFR7G-11 previously they where Bosch F5DPOR... as per my new thread, some people say it could coil packs... damn and there aint no professionals here for my poor scoob, nevertheless I will fix him up

any maps will be gr8 harvey thanks, pls email sanforde@gmail.com
JGM is this you post here? ->
https://www.scoobynet.com/archive/coi...ng-t74077.html
this is my post on the local SA website -> http://www.subaruclub.co.za/forums/s...ead.php?t=3376

Many thanks peepz SanMan

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

Yes..

try a smaller plug gap until you can source new coil packs.. try 0.55mm

Simon

SanMan

Kewl gonna put the old ones back as they are not the problem cos I was having this before I changed em... nevertheless... where can I get a set of these coil packs from aside teh agents... are there any performance ones that you have come across...
btw Simon, I think I will also put the link back in...
another question... how tight should the spark plaugs be turned on a cold engine?
San

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

you can use bosch coils but no real advantage in doing so..

you can also use a 97~98 coil and HT leads.. depends on how handy you are with soldering iron etc..

Simon

SanMan

Hi All,
Harvey thanks for the maps... great help How accurate is the built in knock sensor on the ECU as I would like to get more timing as I am not getting any knocks at sensitivity 80???
Please could you let me know WHY when I plug my seriallink into my ecu and laptop, does my car refuse to start? This also just start happening last week?
When I plug the handheld in it works fine… where could the problem be?
By the way the car is running demonically good...strong at 15psi with aquamist wi...
Many thanks
SanMan

SanMan

Righty,
I have tried a different laptop and a different cable so it must be the seriallink which has gone faulty? damn!!!
Anyone ever had similar problems?
Thanks for the input,
S

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Only just seen this post.
With continual plugging in and unplugging of the Serial Link, it may be that there is a circuit board break in proximity to the plug on the back of it. Take the four screws out of the back and remove the top to have a look.