Timing wheel removal
#1
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Timing wheel removal
Hi,
Hit a snag tonight stripping the engine.
Was away to take the idler off for the belt then thought it would be best slackening the timing wheel bolts first as i dont have the 2 ST wrenches needed for the job. I dont suppose your average joe does either.
I stuck the f/wheel back on and jammed it (its getting binned anyway so not bother about the teeth) then used an allen extension with a big knuckle bar and could only manage to budge the top right wheel. Theyre that tight, i was able to slip the timing belt with the force i was putting on the bar. Now according to my pdf, the bottom ones are only meant to be torqued to 29.5nm and the top ones 98nm. I can tell you now, i was exerting a LOT more force than that trying to get them off.
I had a look at the bolt i was able to remove and the underside face of it was really shiney which would indicate they have been put on way too tight.
Can somebody advise me how to get them off?
I've had this problem 2 or 3 times now with some bolts/nuts so away into town tomorrow to get an impact/air gun for the compressor. More toys for the garage..
Cheers,
Doug.
Hit a snag tonight stripping the engine.
Was away to take the idler off for the belt then thought it would be best slackening the timing wheel bolts first as i dont have the 2 ST wrenches needed for the job. I dont suppose your average joe does either.
I stuck the f/wheel back on and jammed it (its getting binned anyway so not bother about the teeth) then used an allen extension with a big knuckle bar and could only manage to budge the top right wheel. Theyre that tight, i was able to slip the timing belt with the force i was putting on the bar. Now according to my pdf, the bottom ones are only meant to be torqued to 29.5nm and the top ones 98nm. I can tell you now, i was exerting a LOT more force than that trying to get them off.
I had a look at the bolt i was able to remove and the underside face of it was really shiney which would indicate they have been put on way too tight.
Can somebody advise me how to get them off?
I've had this problem 2 or 3 times now with some bolts/nuts so away into town tomorrow to get an impact/air gun for the compressor. More toys for the garage..
Cheers,
Doug.
Last edited by doug2507; 06 August 2006 at 04:22 PM.
#2
Try doing a few excercises at the gym or if your still stuck i'll give you my grannys phone number im just back from visiting her an for 97 she looks in much better shape than you.
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Cheers Russell. The old mans agreed that it would be a handy thing to have so he's going to pick on up the day when he's in town. Saves me a few quid for some beer money tonight..
Is it normal for these to be so tight? The crank pully bolt was a bu66er aswell but that was expected. I was amazed at the weight of the pully/damper! Maybe it 'would' be worth getting a set of new pulleys as the a/c might be getting binned anyway....
Is it normal for these to be so tight? The crank pully bolt was a bu66er aswell but that was expected. I was amazed at the weight of the pully/damper! Maybe it 'would' be worth getting a set of new pulleys as the a/c might be getting binned anyway....
#7
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Well, tried the impact wrench today. Its rated to 380lbs/ft and should have taken them off no problem but they wont budge. Only thing left is oxy/acet and cross fingers that a bit off heat will slacken them. Starting to think they've had a whole tube of locktight used on them....
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#9
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Managed to get another out with a bit of heat. Stripped the bolt as it was still hot/soft, welded on a BIG bolt to the end of it and it came off with a bit of perseverence with the impact wrench. Still got 2 that wont move though. Run out of ideas and the next step is have it drilled out by a machine shop. anyone got any advice?
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