Just got a new power fc and com. from japan today and will make a start at getting the wiring routing and boost control sorted out this weekend.

I've picked-up a second apexi boost control valve and denso pressure sensor which i want to secure to the car and i'd like to get the routing to the ecu sorted out so that when it comes time for mapping, it should be almost plug-and-play.

The pressure sensor's got a 3-pin connector that looks like will plug straight into the pfc, so that seems ok but I'm not sure what boost-controller i've got. It's a 2-port (elbow) type which i think has a "COM" port that goes to the actuator and a "NO" port that goes to the compressor-out..? - i guess the question is will this be a simple swap or have i bought a lemon?

Also, can anyone let me know what mods are needed to convert the cps, cam,and fuel signals from JDM to 97MY UK?

Pics, links, etc. much appreciated!

 

speak to Simon Roe posts on here as jollygreenmonster (www.jollygreenmonster.co.uk)

 

The standard pressure sensor (MAP) on the 97 is perfect and you don;t need to change it for another (this is assuming you have a HT lead equipped car and not a late 96 model with four coilpacks?).
However a 3port solenoid will aid boost control. This might be what you are referring to when you say "apexi boost control valve"

To be honest I would suggest you leave it to the mapper to sort if you are unsure what to change..

Simon

 

I've got a phase 1 engine (coilpack on manifold) and not sure if the oem sensor is good for 1bar+....bloody change-over model year!!

I've done a little bit more research (apexi AVC-R manual) and i think i understand what's going on with the "apexi boost control valve" - as you suggested Simon this is the 3-port boost control solenoid.

According to the manual, there's 2 setups, - one for "actuator" control (i'm assuming this applies to ext. wastegates) and another for "wastegate" control.

It looks like the ports on mine have been setup for actuator control (i got it from an S13) so I'll need to change the porting so that the NC port connects to the intake-hose and Tee the COM port to the actuator boost signal-hose. -
.....Would be cool if anyone could confirm if this is correct.

As for the mapping, i'll leave that to an expert...just gonna focus on getting the wiring & routing sorted.

I've also found out that i'll need to swap-around the crank, cam, and fuel signals to line up with the power fc pins, - does anyone have the specifics?

Cheers Guys!

 

sorry for slow reply..

You are best leaving the swapping on cam and crank wiring and fuel pump to who ever you get to map it..

you need to run the 3port solenoid COM directly to the actuator, NO to the compressor cover.. no T'ing etc..

If you have a coilpack on the inlet manifold and ht leads then it is 97~98 model year whcih is a phase 1.5 (hope you bought the correct PowerFC?) and the MAP sensor is fine.. no need to replace..

Again you might want to leave all this for setting up by whom ever you get to map it.

Simon

 

Hi Simon,
I managed to dig up the correct ECU wiring diagram for the 97/98MY and swapped/moved the wiring as required with no issues. The 3-port plumbing was also straight forward once I was satisfied that deviating from the oem 'bleed to intake' setup was ok.
MAP sensor was also ok, just as well seeing as the Nissan one wasn't compatible anyway.

Mapping went really well, - we settled on 1.3bar after some very naughty WOT runs. We looked at 1.4bar but the BLD-2 trade-off was starting to look excessive and I'm not chasing big power numbers yet so no point pushing the TD04 beyond 1.3bar (...on my car at least).

Although I was very happy with the PFC implant I still felt there was a bit more to be had in terms of low and mid range driveability so I took the plunge and splashed out on a GGR K&N filter. I'm not a great fan of induction kits but i couldn't source a cold-air setup for a 97MY, which is what i really wanted.

With the latest remap i'm now getting 1bar@2500rpm and holds 1.3bar from 2800 to 5250rpm. I've applied a 6k rev limit for now and I think we've got a safe setup at the top end. Subjectively, the car pulls much more linearly from 2k+ and mid-range is significantly better. We did'nt see very big spark changes with the K&N, maybe a couple of degrees at most so I think the improvements I'm feeling have come mainly from ditching the airbox/resonator.

Next step it to wire up EGT/ACT and fabricate a heatshield for the intake so I can make her safe for next summer.
Thanks again for the advice.....much appreciated.

 

no problem