Hi all
I have a 94 wrx import and I am having problems with fuel cut it kicks in around .8 bar.
I have fitted a electronic boost controller and when I try to up the boost it just kicks in.
I have made a fuel cut defender out of 2 bleed valves
1 works as a 1 way valve so as not to lose vacuum only allowing pressure to leak out.
The other adjusts how much pressure is to be released
And I have fitted this in the line to the maps sensor but I still get fuel cut.
The fuel cut use to kick in around 1.2 to 1.3 bar and has gradually come down to .8
Has any one got any ideas

 

how are the 2 bleed valves connected? if they are in line with each other then you are in effect running a lot more boost as the first bleed valve will vent, and then the second one will vent, however the 2nd will vent at a slower rate if you know what I mean as more pressure is needed to reach that 2nd valve if you see what I mean.

Personally I would remove the bleed valves as they are doing nothing, they cannot stop fuel cut as this is down to the ecu, the only way to prevent fuel cut is by using electronics. Your best bet for more performance would be to get a decat downpipe, and a scoobyecu or esl chip that will raise the boost levels and adjust the fuelling and timing to match.

 

the valves are bottom to bottom i have modid one to make it in to ball valve and the other is basicaly just a t pice really so the air goes through the t pice and allows some air to bleed of through the ball valve i work in an engineering work shop so it was easy to make
without it in it still cuts at .8

 

may sound daft but without it connected, have you reconnected everything to how it should be? Has this problem only happened since you fitted the electronic boost controller?
If you can post pics of how everything is connected it may be easier to see where the problem is. If you do post pics though I wont be able to see until I get home as the pics are blocked from work, however Im sure someone else who can see them will be able to advise on it.

 

i have some photos on the other thread you have been replying to about what is it the valve thingy
every thing is wired and piped prity much as it should be it started when i first got the car and i fitted a boost valve then i took it of as the boost was a bit out of control it would boost to 1 bar then next gear it would boost to 1.1 or even higher
so then i had a new engine fitted because of a ring failer and had a boost controler fitted at the same time i waited for the engine to bed in then i started to up the boost that was fine but as time goes on i fined i have to lower the boost so as not to hit it.
the boost controler is now set with a slow boost increes and presuure at about .7

 

after just reading your other posts in "was it you" what ecu are you using on the 2.5?

Will look at the photos when I get home later and will see if I can see anything.

 

the ecu is out of a pro drive and it has a scooby chip in it it seems to work fine apart from the bloody fuel cut problem but i want to change it for an fc when i can aford it

 

to be honest I wouldnt really drive on boost anyway as I imagine the fuelling is going to be well out and running quite lean (bearing in mind the ecu is for a 2.0 and you are running a 25% bigger capacity slightly off topic I know but your boost problem may be helping save the engine)

 

isnt it the job of the air flow meter to componsate for the extra 25% air increas plus i have a 255 and a reg to up the preasuur

 

the airflow can only compensate to a certain level, the 255 wont really do anything, but the regulator if adjustable could help. I may be wrong in what I am saying but it seems logical if you know what I mean. Are you running 380cc injectors as well?

I have a power fc and I can max my maf and Im not even running a tdo5 turbo (power probably only mid 200's) on 380cc injectors