I HAVE A SLIGHT PROBLEM WITH MY CLUTCH PEDAL STICKING. WHEN I DRIVE MY CAR HARD, MY PEDAL STICKS AND THE BITING POINT IS NEARLY AT THE FLOOR! I HAVE TRIED BLEEDING THE CLUTCH AND I HAVE ALSO CHANGED THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER. HAS ANYONE ANY IDEAS ON THIS PROBLEM OR EXPERIENCED THIS PROBLEM??? THE CLUTCH PEDAL DOES NOT STICK WHEN DRIVING ROUND LIKE AN OLD FART AND DOES NOT SLIP AT ALL, PLEASE HELP!!!

 

There are a lot of threads on this. Do you mean the clutch sticks or drags, or that it stays down? Because you mention about the biting point being at the floor. If it hits the floor and you have to hook it up with your toes then you've still got an airlock in there. Make sure you actually take the slave cylinder and raise it up above the master cylinder when bleeding it, with the slave rod clamped right in.

 

Hi sounds like the clutch return spring to me,get your mate to sit in the car and press the clutch pedal in and out,put your hand under the intercooler and find the arm,is there a spring on the top of it???Most likely the answer is no.Buy 1 for about £5 or something from dealers and fit it in the carpark.

 

Thanks guys, I will bleed it and then let you know. There is a spring on their and it is o.k. Thanks for your help!

 

Definitely sounds like it needs rebleeding. I've bled the clutch numerous times and was sure it was right only to find a soft pedal or no pedal at all. Raising the slave cylinder right up and bleeding it that way always has sorted it out. The spring on the release arm actually works in the opposite way to what you want to fix i.e. pulls the clutch pedal down rather than up . And as you say, it's still there.

 

Now take a quick look under your clutch pedal, connected to it you'll see a big thick black spring usually a bit greasy it has a double function push and pull, sometimes it gets stuck just past it's pivot point not allowing it to return fully.
Give the spring a good shake + wiggle......

Did this on mine and I haven't had any issues for over 6 months now!

Also removed a little clutch fluid from the resevoir at the same time as it was just over the max line..... could possibly expand when hot..... not a good thing if over filled!

Good luck,

Plums,

 

there is a primary and secondary clutch master. check both are not leaking

 

Oh! The memories!

As Silent says, bleed with the rod/piston fully clamped in.
I had to remove those big greasy compensator springs (#6 above)

That finally fixed it.

Exactly the same issue, only sticks when gunning it.

That long light spring under the TMIC is there to simply remove any rattles of the arm and the thrust bearing.(but it should be there)

Out of interest, have you just had the gearbox out?

 

I had exactly the same probs when i changed the flywheel and clutch the mechanic told me they are a pain to bleed but stick with it and keep bleeding as it was an airlock we did eventually get rid of it but we were right little bleeders for a good couple of hours.