Hi all
Having recently bought my 1st scooby....YeeeHaaa btw!!! The only slighty bad point on my car is the brakes which i intend on upgrading before i do any mods to the power,as far as i know the car is standard jap import apart from an ss exhaust.
I bought the car from my local garage so dont know any history on it.
It has a hks boost gauge and at full boost is reading 1.1 bar,is it possible that the readings are wrong?From the research i have do on ScoobyNet i belive the standard ecu(my93) cant be mapped without an add on chip.
Im gonna have a look tomorrow,firstly how can i tell if its had a replacement ecu,do the have a model number on them,secondly if i take the ecu off to open it,apart from disconeciting the battery do i need to know or do anything else or is it just a case of removing,having a look and plugging back in?I read about a reset procedure,do i need to do this when i plug it back in??

Regards osset

 

Easy brake conversion is late model impreza (98 onwards) with Goodridge hosing,better brake fluid and uprated pads (although you could go for better discs).
just make sure your wheels will fit over them (15"s won't fit,not all 16"s will fit i bought a set of late model alloys)
Boost Targets & Fuel-Cut Limits
WRX/STi Saloon ECU's 2C, U8, W6, - As above, 11.47psi held to redline. Fuel-cut 14.57psi
WRX (1995/96) ECU Z4 - 12.71psi, dropping to 11.78psi @ 6600rpm. Fuel-cut 15.65psi.
So i would think that either the boost gauge may not have been fitted correctly or your ecu has an extra chip in it.
This is the what a standard ecu looks like

Chris Palmer's Home Page this is a useful site or Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Scoobypedia browse.

 

Sounds to me like you may have a chip fiited. Open the ecu and in the bottom left (where you can see two rows of solder on Myblackwrx's photo) there may be a chip fitted. Post back what you find.

Dan.

 

Thanx for the help!

Ok i have the ecu off,have taken some pics but not sure how to upload em (enter url?)
(quick search on SN sorted )
The ecu has Bozz Speed stickers and one that says W6.
On opening the ecu...has a chip as you guys said it might and on the chip is BZVll. Can this ecu now be re-mapped to get more boost(How much boost is safe?) Also notice there is a black 3 pin plug on the footwell drivers side,could this be anything to do with the ecu?

Regards ossett

 

I don't have a clue what plug in the footwell is for, alarm maybe?

You are already running 1.1bar of boost, this is a very healthy level for the WRX, you could run more but you MAY sacrifice reliability, plenty people choose to do it though. At 1.1bar you should be anywhere between 270-290bhp on a WRX or UK Turbo, dependant on the health of the vehicle and other mods. The chip its self probably is re-mappable, who are 'Bozz Speed'? Perhaps you could try contacting them first.

 

Thanx dan There wasn't an alarm on the car when i bought it,now has a viper 480vx on it.

The reason i ask about the 3 pin plug is,there are 3 extra wires(brown,purple,green)coming from the ecu which go towards the plug,dont want to start pulling things apart to trace them but thought maybe this was a plugin for mapping?

 

Bozz Speed are a Japanese tuning house, IIRC they make some horrendous bodykits

 

BOZZ SPEED <Top> link to the Bozz speed website
W6 is a standard 93wrx ecu

 

Just cheked out their Website. You can contact then via email, they ask for 'simple english only please'. Oh dear!! See what they say.

If you get no joy and you still want to go for more power or piece of mind then you could contact Scott T or ESL and ask their advice. If you wanted more than 1.1bar boost a new chip may not be 'off the shelf', and it may cost a little extra. Generally they go for around £200 off the shelf and would just simply plug into where the present one is.

You might get lucky and a re-map IS possible with the Jap chip, don't get yer hopes up though.

Keep us posted as to the outcome.

 

I think for now i am or should i say was happy with 1.1 bar......Thing is i just took the car out after replacing the ecu and am no longer hitting 1.1 bar
It boosts to 1.0 then drops off to 0.9 bar...Gutted!!! Any ideas why this is?

 

If you have replaced with an ECU that is different to the one above then you won't hit 1.1bar. Standard is 0.9bar, it is the chip that increased it to 1.1bar.
There are other ways to increase boost e.g bleed valve, but these only increase boost. I expect that the chip would have tinkered the fuel to match the boost, that said it may have been mapped for 100RON fuel which we don't get here. If it were me I'd look into getting another chip from the UK, loads safer. For now I'd run with the standard ECU.

 

I'm guessing that he means he took the ECU out, looked at it and put it back in...


One posibility though,

Take it back out and look at the components, for the chip to work, one of them needs to be cut, you might have re-connected it accidently...



I've ringed both as I can't remember which one gets cut...lol
Ady.

 

[QUOTE=dan83590;6695393]If you have replaced with an ECU that is different to the one above then you won't hit 1.1bar. QUOTE]

I just put the same ecu back on! myblackwrx suggested disconnecting battery for 30min,will try that tomorrow.

 

Cheers adrianp i did notice the one on the left had been cut,but didnt touch that

 

Be very careful indeed with that chip, as has been said on here it may well be mapped for 100 RON fuel which is not available in the UK. The Japanese tuning houses also have a reputation on here for running very agressive maps which won't bode well with UK fuel.

Personally I would run it on tesco super + octane booster for now but be looking for a scott.T scoobyecu or ESL chip as a long term solution. However its your car so its your risk, the scott.T and ESL chips are UK proven though so spending £200 could save you an engine in the long run.

 

Agree 100%. It is slightly better these days as we have 99 RON available, but chips put into early WRX ECUs in Japan that increase boost are a potential time bomb. Give it a lot of stick on petrol that isnt up to the job and BANG.

 

DO NOT cut the resister labelled L1. Only the J1 link should be cut (the one on the left), if you can reconnect this you car will be running the standard map, this would be my suggestion for now..