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Old 03 March 2007, 04:07 PM
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mikeswrx02
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Default HELP reading P1507

hi, need urgent help.

engine light on, reading, P1507, mal, control, veh.speed ide. auxilary inputs.

Please anyone can give me info on this.

thanks in adance.
Old 04 March 2007, 12:31 AM
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Default more info.....PLEASE help!!!!!!!!

P1507 Idle control system malfunction (fail-safe)

Car is now idle rough, feels like running out of breath like 2 cyclinders!!!

No power at all.

Where can i start?

anyone had same problems and how was it rectified??? Will it cost me a bomb??

DO i just renew the Idle control system malfunction solenoid or something??!!

Cheers in advance.

Last edited by mikeswrx02; 04 March 2007 at 12:35 AM. Reason: add
Old 04 March 2007, 01:04 AM
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bugeyeandy
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From the manual

1 CHECK ANY OTHER DTC ON DISPLAY.


2 CHECK AIR INTAKE SYSTEM.

1)Turn ignition switch to ON.
2)Start engine, and idle it.
3)Check the following items.
•Loose installation of intake manifold, idle air
control solenoid valve and throttle body
•Cracks of intake manifold gasket, idle air control
solenoid valve gasket and throttle body
gasket
•Disconnections of vacuum hoses

3 CHECK THROTTLE CABLE. Does throttle cable have play
for adjustment?

4 CHECK AIR BY-PASS LINE.
1)Turn ignition switch to OFF.
2)Remove idle air control solenoid valve from
throttle body. <Ref. to FU(DOHC TURBO)-34,
Idle Air Control Solenoid Valve.>
3)Confirm that there are no foreign particles in
by-pass air line.

After 4 - Are foreign particles in by-pass
air line?
Remove foreign
particles from bypass
air line.
Replace idle air
control solenoid
valve. <Ref. to
FU(DOHC
TURBO)-34, Idle
Air Control Solenoid
Valve.>
Old 04 March 2007, 01:40 AM
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Originally Posted by bugeyeandy
From the manual

1 CHECK ANY OTHER DTC ON DISPLAY.

2 CHECK AIR INTAKE SYSTEM.
1)Turn ignition switch to ON.
2)Start engine, and idle it.
3)Check the following items.
•Loose installation of intake manifold, idle air
control solenoid valve and throttle body
•Cracks of intake manifold gasket, idle air control
solenoid valve gasket and throttle body
gasket
•Disconnections of vacuum hoses

3 CHECK THROTTLE CABLE. Does throttle cable have play
for adjustment?

4 CHECK AIR BY-PASS LINE.
1)Turn ignition switch to OFF.
2)Remove idle air control solenoid valve from
throttle body. <Ref. to FU(DOHC TURBO)-34,
Idle Air Control Solenoid Valve.>
3)Confirm that there are no foreign particles in
by-pass air line.

After 4 - Are foreign particles in by-pass
air line?
Remove foreign
particles from bypass
air line.
Replace idle air
control solenoid
valve. <Ref. to
FU(DOHC
TURBO)-34, Idle
Air Control Solenoid
Valve.>
CHEERS for that but where about is the idle air control solenoid located?
Old 04 March 2007, 10:24 AM
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bugeyeandy
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It's on the throttle body - item 3 in this piccy.

Old 04 March 2007, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by bugeyeandy
It's on the throttle body - item 3 in this piccy.

fantastic, cheers mate. oh btw, where can i get a full scooby bugeye manual?
Old 04 March 2007, 06:47 PM
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Had this on mine, Took the valve off and found the slider was siezed so the motor could not turn it. I took the plastic motor off of the alloy body and soaked the alloy in wd40 overnight. and then turned the flap manually till it was nice and loose. Refit motor and refit to car. Did this six months ago and have had no problen since.

The biggest problem i had was removing the security screws which hold the plastic motor to the alloy body. Once there off I replaced them with normal screws as i had to chew the heads up to get them out. If you want to get some replacements before hand they are 4mm x 20mm long with a spring washer will do the job just great.

Last edited by Turbotits; 04 March 2007 at 07:10 PM.

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Old 04 March 2007, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbotits
Had this on mine, Took the valve off and found the slider was siezed so the motor could not turn it. I took the plastic motor off of the alloy body and soaked the alloy in wd40 overnight. and then turned the flap manually till it was nice and loose. Refit motor and refit to car. Did this six months ago and have had no problen since.

The biggest problem i had was removing the security screws which hold the plastic motor to the alloy body. Once there off I replaced them with normal screws as i had to chew the heads up to get them out. If you want to get some replacements before hand they are 4mm x 20mm long with a spring washer will do the job just great.
hi, thanks.
is it the bolts for T2 or T3 on the picture? and how many?
cheers
Old 04 March 2007, 09:30 PM
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The bolts T2 are 5mm there are two of them, Remove them and unplug the electric plug and then remove the unit, there is a rubber gasget here so be carefull. When you have the unit off you will see that the electical part is plastic and held onto the alloy with two security screws.(not shown on picture) I ended up undoing these with a small chisel and hammer to tap them round and then mole grips. I have a set of security ends for most screws but not one of the 50 or 60 of them would fit. once these are removed the plastic will slide off a spindle. This spindle is what turns the flap inside the alloy housing and should easily be able to be turned by hand. Had to use pliers on mine to start with. I found working some wd40 into it did loosen it up. But after soaking the whole unit over night it was loverly and loose.

Last edited by Turbotits; 04 March 2007 at 09:46 PM.
Old 04 March 2007, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbotits
The bolts T2 are 5mm there are two of them, Remove them and unplug the electric plug and then remove the unit, there is a rubber gasget here so be carefull. When you have the unit off you will see that the electical part is plastic and held onto the alloy with two security screws.(not shown on picture) I ended up undoing these with a small chisel and hammer to tap them round and then mole grips. I have a set of security ends for most screws but not one of the 50 or 60 of them would fit. once these are removed the plastic will slide off a spindle. This spindle is what turns the flap inside the alloy housing and should easily be able to be turned by hand. Had to use pliers on mine to start with. I found working some wd40 into it did loosen it up. But after soaking the whole unit over night it was loverly and loose.
cheers for your valuable info. I will give it a bash. BTW how did you soak with WD40? I thought its a spray? or can i buy a tin of wd40 liquid form?!
Old 05 March 2007, 06:59 PM
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just spray a load into a small container and sit the alloy part in it. lol
Old 08 March 2007, 03:19 PM
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Default FIXED IT!!!!

Hi all,
I've fixed the problem.

Result:The idle control unit was found to be dirty which restricted the mechanics of it. I followed the instructions given by you guys....

The screw was so tight that it broken my screw driver so i got an impact screw driver to release it!!! First i sprayed loads of PC board cleaner, soaked it for 2 minutes then using the tip of a screw driver to move the internal part freely. Then WD40 soaked for few minutes and more tickling with internal, then sprayed some silicon lube and was put back on the car.
Started up and the car sounded fine. Took it out for a blast.... PERFECT!!!!!

I would like to thank all of you who helped me out especially bugeyeandy who posted a clear pic for me.

Scoobynet save me a fortune again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

MANY MANY thanks.
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