Wrx or STi - engine reliability
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I have been looking into getting a 2003 WRX or if I can afford it, a 2003 WRX STi Type UK.
I have read a few horror stories about engines needing to be rebuilt at a cost of £3000.
How reliable are the Impreza engines and how long should they last?
What's the difference between a standard WRX engine and the STi Type UK engine? Is either one more or less reliable than the other.
I wouldn't be looking to modify the car, I just want a reliable, fast standard car.
I have read a few horror stories about engines needing to be rebuilt at a cost of £3000.
How reliable are the Impreza engines and how long should they last?
What's the difference between a standard WRX engine and the STi Type UK engine? Is either one more or less reliable than the other.
I wouldn't be looking to modify the car, I just want a reliable, fast standard car.
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I have a remapped 03STi with 45k miles thrashed with no problems and uses no oil. Both engines are reliable, the STi has some stronger internals to cope with higher power and a stronger 6 speed box. Plenty of stories of engines reaching 150k on here. Horror stories usually relate to mistakes on modded cars.
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If you`re not modding it should be fine ( that`s not to say modded ones go pop cus they all don`t) if you do mod i`d look into a remap just for peace of mind....
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ive had my 03 wrx for 18 months and for over 15 months been running over 300bhp with no probs at all now done over 45000 miles
well thats my kiss of death now
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well thats my kiss of death now
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I think you will find the horror stories are related to the early scoobs pre 98 engines are the ones with the problems, afterwards they were changed to a duel/ rear thrust crank setup which is far more reliable.
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Saw a post somewhere else on this forum where Andy Forest says he's using a standard new age crank at huge power. Must say something about the strength of this item.
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03STi no engine faults.
Other faults as follows:
Leaking rad - poor crimping at top of core done under warranty.
Rear shocks - leaking done under warranty. More common to be replaced for knocking noises.
NSR wheel bearing - just out of warranty - doh.
Gearbox tunnel shaft bearing - out of warranty but a good excuse to get an uprated clutch while the gearbox was off.
Cr*p service from stealer fitting Prodrive parts, ended up suing them. Only go to Scoobyclinic now.
Cheers, Diccy.
Other faults as follows:
Leaking rad - poor crimping at top of core done under warranty.
Rear shocks - leaking done under warranty. More common to be replaced for knocking noises.
NSR wheel bearing - just out of warranty - doh.
Gearbox tunnel shaft bearing - out of warranty but a good excuse to get an uprated clutch while the gearbox was off.
Cr*p service from stealer fitting Prodrive parts, ended up suing them. Only go to Scoobyclinic now.
Cheers, Diccy.
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Head gaskets appear to be a bit more fragile than you might like, and it's an engine out job to replace them. Usually caused by another fault such as a split hose or a leaking rad causing temp to climb.
If the car has had a new rad was it caught in time or did it only get discovered after overheating. If the engine bay has any signs of reddy/brown coolant has there been a split hose at some point again possibly causing overheating.
If I was after fast reliable and standard then I'd buy an VW/Audi which I suspect will be my next move as the interior and spec level is so much higher and they are quieter to tank down the mway at 90.. erm I mean 70 !
If the car has had a new rad was it caught in time or did it only get discovered after overheating. If the engine bay has any signs of reddy/brown coolant has there been a split hose at some point again possibly causing overheating.
If I was after fast reliable and standard then I'd buy an VW/Audi which I suspect will be my next move as the interior and spec level is so much higher and they are quieter to tank down the mway at 90.. erm I mean 70 !
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