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Turbo change - tips and advice

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Old 09 May 2007 | 02:53 PM
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Default Turbo change - tips and advice

I have a replacement TD04 on its way for my MY00 classic. I will be doing the swap myself, but was wondering if anyone could offer any advice or tips on how to go about the swap.

Is there anything I should be aware of or are there specialist tools I will need.

I have looked for, but been unable to find, a step by step guide, if there is such a thing where could I find it?

Thanks
Old 09 May 2007 | 04:32 PM
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I just did a turbo swap for the first time a few weeks ago with normal workshop tools. Before you start, get yourself a good quality 'wall drive' 14mm 6-sided socket and a 14mm swivel head ratchet spanner. These two things will ensure that seized bolt heads and nuts come off as they should - rather than worrying that your 2 foot long torque wrench is going to round off an awkward nut. The ratchet spanner is very useful for all kinds of awkward to get at bits. Also get some PlusGas releasing oil. Once you've got everything off, I tend not to treat used nuts/bolts/studs as throwaway unless they're wrecked. The studs are about £3 each, nuts £1.50 and bolts I can't remember but not cheap.

Anyway, remove turbo heatshield and the two top bolts holding the turbine side to the downpipe, which will then release the heatshield mounting bracket. Undo the lambda sensor in the downpipe with a 22mm ring spanner and remove (optional). If you have an EGT sensor below your cat, you can leave it in, just trace back its connector and disconnect. Remove downpipe - two sprung bolts at the back end, a mounting bolt on a hanger in the middle and then three nuts under the downpipe neck where it joins to the turbine. These can be tricky and the swivel head ratchet comes in really useful here.

Once downpipe is released and removed, you have three nuts holding the turbine to the up-pipe. The back and middle one are no problem, with a narrow extension on your socket wrench you should be able to get at the front one which is obscured a little by the compressor housing. Otherwise it's a ratchet spanner job again.

Once all the nuts are off, undo the oil feed bolt on the top, the two water bolts on the side, the water pipe leading to the header tank and the jubilee clip on the inlet pipe. The turbo should just lift straight up now with a bit of wangling. The oil drain pipe is underneath and it should slip out quite easily.

Gaskets can usually be reused, use a small amount of exhaust paste when reassembling, not too much. None of the nuts/bolts/studs need any more than 35-40Nm when tightening them, which isn't much - however hard it was to get them off!

All in all it's a couple of hours' work if you're reasonably competent and have the tools. If anything's seized and PlusGas won't release it, it takes as long as it takes. I wouldn't imagine having to drill out a stud would be much fun.

Hope this helps!

Last edited by silent running; 09 May 2007 at 04:34 PM.
Old 09 May 2007 | 05:03 PM
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exactly what he says. Did this my self last weekend what a PIG well the oil return was the hardest thing to do :-)
Old 09 May 2007 | 06:30 PM
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Thanks for that, keep your fingers crossed the up pipe to turbo bolts come out OK !!
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