06 STi, remap and cold air feed
#1
06 STi, remap and cold air feed
My 06 STi is booked in for a remap/uprated fuel pump/exhaust in a couple of weeks and I’m looking for a few ideas and opinions regarding a cold air feed from the fog light to the airbox.
Should I make the effort to fit one before the map or should I not bother??
I suppose my main concern is that if I wait until after the map am I defeating the object of doing it in the first place and would a further map be required in order to get any benefit from it.
For what it’s worth I’ve replaced the standard STi panel filter with a Green cotton one.
Thanks in advance!
Should I make the effort to fit one before the map or should I not bother??
I suppose my main concern is that if I wait until after the map am I defeating the object of doing it in the first place and would a further map be required in order to get any benefit from it.
For what it’s worth I’ve replaced the standard STi panel filter with a Green cotton one.
Thanks in advance!
#3
Whatever you tweak on the air feed should be done prior to the remap for it to be adjusted for.
Rather than going the full distance, why not just do just a snorkelectomy?
It'll still give you a guaranteed cold air feed from in the wing, but will be cheaper and easier to do than the front bumper feed.
nick
Rather than going the full distance, why not just do just a snorkelectomy?
It'll still give you a guaranteed cold air feed from in the wing, but will be cheaper and easier to do than the front bumper feed.
nick
#4
Hi Nick,
What's a 'snorkelectomy' ?
Cold air feed has been discussed with the guys doing the work on my own project ahead of the remap, but this was a kit (blitz iirc) costing about £150ish and was going to involve removal of part of the inlet tract and o/s fog lamp. Is there a better (and cheaper) alternative?
Cheers,
Stewart.
What's a 'snorkelectomy' ?
Cold air feed has been discussed with the guys doing the work on my own project ahead of the remap, but this was a kit (blitz iirc) costing about £150ish and was going to involve removal of part of the inlet tract and o/s fog lamp. Is there a better (and cheaper) alternative?
Cheers,
Stewart.
#5
Hi Stewart,
A snorkelectomy on a newage car is:
1. Remove air feed trunk from radiator to wing.
2. Remove drivers side wheel and plastic wheel arch.
3. Undo two bolts holding large "snorkel" feeding airbox then remove it.
4. Using a 90deg and 45 deg 3" section grey drainage pipe. The 90 deg section pushes into the airbox very snuggly and the 45 deg fits on the end of this and should be directed down into the wing.
5. Seal up the hole from engine bay to wing. I just cut out some thin alloy sheet and siliconed it in place.
Cost should be about £15 and takes about 1 hour.
Nick
A snorkelectomy on a newage car is:
1. Remove air feed trunk from radiator to wing.
2. Remove drivers side wheel and plastic wheel arch.
3. Undo two bolts holding large "snorkel" feeding airbox then remove it.
4. Using a 90deg and 45 deg 3" section grey drainage pipe. The 90 deg section pushes into the airbox very snuggly and the 45 deg fits on the end of this and should be directed down into the wing.
5. Seal up the hole from engine bay to wing. I just cut out some thin alloy sheet and siliconed it in place.
Cost should be about £15 and takes about 1 hour.
Nick
#6
Why not just leave the OEM intake system in place ? It's one of Subaru's better design items LOL
I ran 325BHP thru' my OEM kit. AFAIK even the Spec C's and RA-r's etc use the OEM induction side.
Just a thought.
Shaun
I ran 325BHP thru' my OEM kit. AFAIK even the Spec C's and RA-r's etc use the OEM induction side.
Just a thought.
Shaun
#7
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#8
Fantastic Nick!
Just been under the bonnet and had a good look at the layout - all makes perfect sense. Shall be heading to my local plumbers merchant later this week to make a couple of purchases methinks.
Cheers,
Stewart.
Just been under the bonnet and had a good look at the layout - all makes perfect sense. Shall be heading to my local plumbers merchant later this week to make a couple of purchases methinks.
Cheers,
Stewart.
#9
This is my set up:
89mm ducting goes straight to the input of the standard airbox with green air filter.
When mapped to suit this, the additional air flow was quite noticeable. Now flowing at around 294 grams/sec.
Water ingress is negligible too - even on very wet days there is no water going up to the airbox.
89mm ducting goes straight to the input of the standard airbox with green air filter.
When mapped to suit this, the additional air flow was quite noticeable. Now flowing at around 294 grams/sec.
Water ingress is negligible too - even on very wet days there is no water going up to the airbox.
#10
I went for the Pipercross CAIF.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...u/IMG_1367.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...u/IMG_1366.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...u/IMG_1365.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...u/IMG_1364.jpg
It's £25, from Halfords. Drill a 3" hole in the fog cover, insert trumpet (had mine colour coded) and glue in place. Piping attaches on back and goes to wherever you want. All clips are included.
I only needed half the kit, as i've inner-wing induction, so sold the other trumpet and half the piping for £10. So £15 for the Cold Air Feed. Bonus!
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...u/IMG_1367.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...u/IMG_1366.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...u/IMG_1365.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...u/IMG_1364.jpg
It's £25, from Halfords. Drill a 3" hole in the fog cover, insert trumpet (had mine colour coded) and glue in place. Piping attaches on back and goes to wherever you want. All clips are included.
I only needed half the kit, as i've inner-wing induction, so sold the other trumpet and half the piping for £10. So £15 for the Cold Air Feed. Bonus!
#11
Nick
#12
Understand. 135 deg would let the new assembly hang better into the wheelarch void. 90 deg elbow looks like it would rub against the inner wing. Took the 3" size as ID to fit onto the airbox inlet.
Cheers,
Stewart.
Cheers,
Stewart.
#13
Stewart,
The 90 deg bend pushes into the airbox and the 135 deg section dangles down into the wing space. I also secure the whole thing with cable ties to stop it falling out or rubbing.
Nick
The 90 deg bend pushes into the airbox and the 135 deg section dangles down into the wing space. I also secure the whole thing with cable ties to stop it falling out or rubbing.
Nick
#14
you still need to get cold air into the inner wing guys - fog light surround from Subaru main dealer (less than the Revolution ones and colour coded too) or the Pipercross CAK will do that.
#15
At the risk of getting shot to pieces (he says while stepping into flak vest, helmet and hiding behind the nearest wall), the inner wing void isn't airtight - just seems 'splashproof'.
Looks like the spaces around the arch cover etc. will probably allow plenty of access to the outside world and cold air.
Or am I utterly wrong and that noise I hear is the not so distant sound of gunfire?
:-)
Stewart.
Looks like the spaces around the arch cover etc. will probably allow plenty of access to the outside world and cold air.
Or am I utterly wrong and that noise I hear is the not so distant sound of gunfire?
:-)
Stewart.
#17
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This is my set up:
89mm ducting goes straight to the input of the standard airbox with green air filter.
When mapped to suit this, the additional air flow was quite noticeable. Now flowing at around 294 grams/sec.
Water ingress is negligible too - even on very wet days there is no water going up to the airbox.
89mm ducting goes straight to the input of the standard airbox with green air filter.
When mapped to suit this, the additional air flow was quite noticeable. Now flowing at around 294 grams/sec.
Water ingress is negligible too - even on very wet days there is no water going up to the airbox.
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